Dooly

This car is so damn clean/original, he's probably still rockin' the factory new car smell.

I would love to swap to do mpi. What issues did you run into?

Thats the plan. I'm just wondering about the resistor box because my exhaust is one piece for the turbo to the muffler, so I can't really take my down pipe off and have a bung welded in. I'm going to try to clean the injectors my self, and if it doesn't improve, I'll probably break down and buy new ones.

Okay, so you had the crank set at zero, and the cam pin at 12 o'clock, then you retarded the timing with the distributor?

Oh really? I had no idea. Is that how its suppose to be? I thought I read it was at tdc?

C300, do you think I could wire in a resistor box to trick the car into thinking it has an o2 sensor?

I gasped when I saw the interior. Beautiful car and an awesome story to go with it.

What kind of condition are the injectors in?

That's what we were thinking, but all the signs seem to point to the timing being right on (other than it running right, of course) When you redid your timing, you had the crank at TDC and the cam alignment pin at 12 o'clock, right? We had a timing light on it, and it was showing it was sparking right at TDC

Here's a video I took yesterday of it running: We checked and the timing is spot on, and then we discovered its just dumping fuel. So I'm going to pull the injectors and send them off for cleaning and replace all the filters and screens per C300's advice. Its going to take awhile because this is my back-burner car. But I'll try to get to it as often as I can.

Thanks for the advice C300. I was actually looking through your thread earlier and that's what made me start thinking my injectors are dirty. And I will. haha. Kinda sucks because I bought this thing the way it is, and now I'm finding out just how ghetto all the previous owners mods are. Any idea how far from the turbo I should weld in the new bung?

Hey guys, its me again. Just got the car running last night for what was apparently the first time in years. The guy I got it from said he got it running, but since the hard timing was 180 degrees out, I doubt that very much. Anyhoo, was out tinkering a little today, and I'm getting some SERIOUS flooding issues. I've already done some searching and I'm leaning towards dirty injectors, but I wanted to elaborate on my exact situation and see if someone might be able to help me from just throwing money at it. So to start the day, it would start and run like garbage. It would eventually be able to idle alone without me feathering the throttle, here's a video of what it ran like: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JtwFRuJ-TPc Then later on, it wouldn't start. So we thought it might be flooded. Unplug both injectors, the car starts and runs at 3k rpm (with my foot on the pedal) for about 5 seconds before sputtering and dying. The closest it will run to a normal car is with the secondary unplugged, just running the primary. It idles kinda crap, but can actually rev up without stumbling and stuttering. Then it hits a wall at 3k rpm. If I plug in the secondary, it will run like crap, and rev up like crap but start to run more normal in the higher end of the RPM scale. The o2 sensor was removed and is just hanging out, was wondering if that could be it? I know its not helping at all, I'm wondering if the o2 sensor is just like "Holy crap, there's no fuel in this air, DUMP THAT CRAP!!!" because its just reading fresh air from the outside world? Also, the temp sensors on the radiator aren't hooked up because the factory fans are gone. Mods on this car is, aftermarket piping, MSD coil, BOV, bigger turbo with external wastegate, some crappy fan that's bolted to the water pump, and a full straight pipe exhaust. I'm not sure what it has done fuel wise. The injectors look factory. One with a black ring, the other with a green ring. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you for looking.

Good info in here. Im constantly trying to find this thread to refer too.

Oh crap! Good thing you're in Florida, it'll probably just shake the ground a little

Here is a video of the first start up in years. Thanks to all the guys on the forum who helped figure out what it was.

Nope, but thanks for the post! It was the bottom end and the head. Just got in from working on it and I'm happy to say, she lives After almost 2 years of sitting, we got it running. Just had my buddy hold in the tensioner while I rotated the cam gear and the cam shaft. I'm in love already.

Okay guys, after months of procrastinating, I found that the head seems to be 180 degrees out from the bottom end. My question is, is there anyway to loosen the timing chain without taking the timing chain cover off? Its looking like there isn't but I'm hoping all the OG's know a way around it. Thanks in advance.

Uhg. I hope my engine bay is that clean someday. The stock SQ engine bay is so cluttered with wires and ghetto inter-cooler piping routing. Great work!

Will do, thanks a lot guys. I'll let you know if I get it running today. I owe you guys

I had tried turning it over with the injectors unplugged, mainly to build oil pressure since it hasn't run in years. It turned over nicely and freely until we tried hooking up one of the injectors. I'll check the compression whenever I can get a comp tester, that's probably not a bad idea. haha. I'm gonna go out later and try pulling the gear off the cam and rotating the bottom end and try to get them synced up right.

Yeah, I put new plugs in because the old ones were destroyed. I haven't checked the compression yet, but I know its at least enough to start judging from turning it over by hand. I'm thinking it might have an injector issue, one of them (I believe the primary) has a green plastic ring that goes around it and that is broken in one spot, idk if that is important or not but it doesn't seem good. haha. I plan on replacing them anyway. I had the VC off and will have it off again later, I didn't look at the lifters and I'm not entirely sure what Jet valves are?? I had the VC off while we were turning it over by hand and all the valves appeared to be opening and closing nicely. Now it appears to be trying to ignite the mixture in the middle of the compression stroke, so it just stops turning over. I think the chain might be a few teeth off. I'm wondering if the person that put this motor together last thought the dimple for lining up the chain on the cam gear was suppose to be a 12 o'clock and thought the pin was just irrelevant? Thanks for the link Vbrad, lots of great info in there. Thanks for being so helpful guys. I really want to get this thing running.

Okay, I did what RCM said and I've got the head and dizzy working together, but it appears that the bottom end isn't in sync. Its trying to ignite while the piston is moving up (My guess is its just before TDC) and the motor just stops. What do the timing marks on the crank pulley look like? I'm used to some sort of engraving on most cars, but the most I've found on this car are two little white marks, looks like they were made with paint pen or something. Are the two holes on the front of the pulley relevant?

Great. I broke it off and just said "FML" cause I assumed it was important. haha. Thanks guys, I appreciate the help

Wow, thanks for the quick responses! So its just a ground? I'll have to go out and get a pic.

Hey guys, There's a small black box that has a blue wire coming out of it, running to the neg on the coil, and a black wire that runs.. Well, that's my question. I need to know where that wire goes? I accidentally broke that black wire trying to unplug it, and now I have no idea where it came from. would I be okay mounting it to the body as a ground or does it need to go somewhere specific? Looks like it went over near the intake manifold. Any help would be great!