Soopaquest87

well thats a relief to know. Cause i know AEM ecu are like $900 or so last i saw. Now i have to get the car and get it situated and see how bad it is and if its even worth it to do the swap in.

Ok as title says i have been reading up on project zero g about a 4g63 swap into a quest i might be getting in a month or less. Now what has me confused is the wiring. It doesnt state what ecu to use i may just be having a brain fart when i read it or just over looking it. Do I use the DSM ecu with DSMlink (i have a couple laying around) or use an AEM or what? I know how to do the wiring merger on the B-38 and all but just confused on the ECU. Someone elighten me on this thing so i know if its worth it or not lol. Any advise on the swap is needed to like how to do motor mounts and the stuff to mount engine in i know how to do the tranny stuff and all also.

Maybe you should know ive been on here for years and never posted because i never built one? Its hard to look at fitment with out a car and fmic in front of you now aint it?

And there where you just need to leave the post if you are going to say i dont know what i am doing. If you would learn to read the intercooler is for a 1g DSM not a Conquest. So if you dont know how to modify the quest to use a 1g fmic then get the hell out of my post.

Wow sweet i had no idea you could use dsm link in it. Im going to search on that right now. But im guessing all i need from my DSMlik ecu from the talon would be just the chip and memory board and then socket the conquest ecu and put it in it? Or is it more complicated?

Ok so i am going to sell my friend my 1g Talon AWD shell and get a 89 Conquest for a 4g63 swap. Now i already have DSMlink ecu in the talon which i know i cant use i dont belive. And i also ordered a VRSF FMIC for it. Now my question is how much work would need to be dont to mount the 1g VRSF FMIC to a conquest? You can kinda see how it the inlet pipes will be and the outlet will be the same i belive ill up load pic of the kits core when it comes in October 2nd. Will be flowing backwards from a DSM i know but would still work the same.

Well depending on how clean the shell is i would travel a pretty good ways

As title says i am looking for a solid Wide body shell to put a 4g63 into. I would like it to be close to Louisiana but i can travel some if it is a good price. the car needs to be complete minus the engine and transmission which i wont need unless its free then ill give it to a friend to slap in a Isuzu pup. it doesnt have to be emacualte or anything like that at all just needs to be solid with little rust and NO MAJOR body damage. Color doesnt matter nor does having the air dam. I used to have a 87 quest sold it and regret it so i need another one. If anyone has one or knows where a cheap one is let me know please. I WILL ALSO NEED THE DRIVESHAFT!!

$500 is a SLAP IN THE FACE!! That is clearly worth $501

Hmmm i am interested in it but have to find out about a trailor up there and back and find out what work needs to be done to put a 4g63 in it. So realistically what would you take for the whole thing as it sits?

Pending

From what i can tell from asking people on here the start up is smoke is just running rich at cold starts, not sure what head it is but i belive it may just have the cam in it, and i want to so the guy who built it port and polished the head but not 100% sure so im gong to say its 50/50 on that. @rpm26redline yes it should make it all the way to Birmingham i drove it from Hattiesburg to monroe and thats a 4 hours drive and all i did was stop every 2 hours to check the oil and water to make sure it wasnt losing any fluids and it wasnt and drove it from the last stop which was jackson all the way back. But if you have any questions just shoot me a PM the price is flexible. Yes Title is clean and has 175,902.5 miles on the Body and about 75k miles since the rebuild.

Bump and reduced to $2000 OBO

http://i40.tinypic.com/2hhhtn5.jpg http://i39.tinypic.com/jsot5i.jpg http://i42.tinypic.com/1zew2ue.jpg http://i41.tinypic.com/vdiudt.jpg http://i39.tinypic.com/aw27bp.jpg http://i39.tinypic.com/19bnk0.jpg

Bump uploading pics in about 30mins

Ok i am selling my car because i am going to get me a Restoration project a 73' Duster 360 to be exact. But the quest is in pretty good shape has a few spots that are damaged the hood flew up on the last owner on the interstate and kinda bent the ends on the passenger side, and the little metal plate behind it also. There is a spot on the fender where the door opened to much a long time ago and kinda dented it in but was pulled out pretty good but still noticeable. It doesnt have a radio installed but will come with a brand new one.Also blows smoke pretty bad at start up but once warm it stops and i saw the leak coming out of the turbo. It is not stock it has a Evo 3 16g, full 3 inch exhaust from down pipe back, regrinded cam from the duration and all i belive a 280 has a real nice lope to it, Light weight fidanza flywheel and stage 4 clutch, the block has been built with lite weight rods, and 8.0:1 pistons, 650cc and 950cc injectors. Almost everything in this car works all the lights except reverse lights and the AC control sytem but it does have the unit in it. Interior is a 7/10 in my book very good shape. The car is running 15psi daily but i never take it past 8psi unless im gettin on I20. Has a new distributer cap, rotor, and plugs, fresh oil change. This thing is a screamer it will throw you back in the seat and send you sideways if you dont know what you are doing. This is why i dont want to sell to a kid that is going to total it and kill them selves. This car has been run at the track before the evo 3 16g turbo and ran a 14.02 @ 98mph and it is much faster than that now. It has a clean Louisiana Title and ready to go i drove this car back to Monroe,LA all the way from Hattiesburg, MS with no problems at all. I am looking to get $2500 OBO for the car by all means drop any offers, but no trades i am going to have my hands full with the Duster. Here are a few pics of the car I will take day time pics tomorrow and put them up these are showing the lights and the damage listed. It also has true Mitsubishi Starion tail lights. Any questions about it just message me on here i check everyday now. http://i42.tinypic.com/243gojd.jpg http://i39.tinypic.com/vdj11f.jpg http://i44.tinypic.com/169mazm.jpg http://i39.tinypic.com/c52ci.jpg http://i42.tinypic.com/2ild0zr.jpg http://i44.tinypic.com/2ujmjj5.jpg http://i44.tinypic.com/2ykeyyr.jpg

So fuel? It doesnt smoke in boost or i havnt seen it smoke it stops after it warms up or you drive it for about a mile or 2

yea its oil i got a paper towel and rubbed some off :/ so im guessin ill be gettin a new turbo any ideas of the best to get with the 650/950 cc injectors and stock fuel system?

Ok this is the reason my car is smoking bad at start up. The PCV is new so im guessing turbo or valve stem seals. The turbo is an Ebay Evo 3 16g that has been balanced or so i was told. http://i44.tinypic.com/4gosa9.jpg http://i40.tinypic.com/i4l1s7.jpg

Fixed problem still no radio :/

For as much as i would have to spend on this car to make it normal and not rigged i would be spending more than what the car is worth, so imma get it running and first person with $2500 can have it.

It an 87 and as much problems as im having out of it im selling it cause its so rigged it aint even funny. I found a blue wire with white line that has been cut where the radio goes and if i touch it to the constant power wire I have power to the ignition but cant start it. I some how got it started and it ran til i turned it off. I have the guy that had it before the ricer kid got it to come take a look and see if he can find the problem. Its just a pain in the rear when doing this electric crap thats why i like old cars very little wiring compared to these. Im just ready to get the thing running radio in and its getting sold.

How do i get to the switch is it behind the dash or what?

Ok so i installed a radio and turned car on and all then started and as soon as it started it died and i pulled radio out and there was a wire touching it that i assume is not supposed to ground out. Everything works exept anything that has to do with the ignition, no start, no power to anything that is supposed to get it when key is turned so i am wondering where the ignition fuse is located?

The lid i have doesnt clamp down at all, i am going to get the plug wire holder that goes to the head as soon as i find one the one on there is broken, I am going to get new plug wires not sure of what kind im thinking MSD, I am going to order the plugs, and i am also going to go ahead and get a new Coil while im at it not sure whats the best for my set-up yet. But today the promlem was non existant since the new cap, rotor, plugs, and i temp fixed the #2 wire. But until i get all parts ordered that are the best for this car and take the cheap crap off it is going to be parked for about a week. Also the smoke problem was cured te new PCV fixed it now it just has a puff of smoke at a stop from the left over oil in the IC and IC pipes so thanks for all the help.