The Rabbit1
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Posts posted by The Rabbit1
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ISC/MPS to 23320?
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if you said what it is doing then maybe we can help a lil better..
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Slapped a Jacobs coil still the same so waiting on ign box......
that's basically an accel coil..
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i would have held on and road that bad boy down to break my fall
i would have held on and tried to kill that mother! that way when people say omg what happened? I could say: I hit a deer.. with my face.. but I ate it, so we're even.. lol
but seriously I bet the deer would have beat him worse if he tried that, lol
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what's so hard about it?
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I was the one who told the club centerlinks were still available. But only 10 in the US. I bought a few to store on my shelf.
I just bought one like 2 months ago, I doubt there were only 10 left, the same centerlink works on d-50, mighty max...
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got mine at NAPA
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how do you know it's good? did you run 12v to it? did you spin it to see how smoothly it spins?
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Hey Cal did you have to change the B terminal wire end to work on the new alternators bigger threaded part? I noticed on mine that the factory alt harness is too small and I'll need to cut and crimp a new bigger eyelet connector...
I did with the one I got, it went up one size.
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6. 4 brand new Achilles 225/50/R16 ATR Sport tires, $200
how much is shipping to 23320?
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So if the knock box aint a knocking ya want it?
yes pls
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if your knock box is indeed bad and you replace it I would like it for a project btw..
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I will say it one more time, I had that problem last week, I tested the distributor pickup and it was at 1180 ohms, specs are 920-1120.. somehow it was still running, so I changed it anyway.. and I no longer have a weak spark, take five minutes and check it instead of $500 and five days avoiding doing the simple tests the FSM tells you to do..
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96 LT4 corvette, has the 140 amp alternator
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look at the connection where the forks/handlebar meet body right at the the joint where you steer.. is the paint there cracked? take a closup if you would.
also straighten out the wheel and stand her up, have someone hold her up and take a pic, does the slant of the forks look right?
any cracking of paint, or the rake of the forks being off or the wheel doesn't look straight when looking down at it from the rider's seat, then the frame is tweaked. And any new frame is hell in a handbag to get DMV to accept, all kinds of paperwork and fees that I doubt you want to deal with.
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I took mine to a local hydraulic line shop and had them redone for about $20 or so, heavy equipment hydraulic line quality, will probably outlive the car now..
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made it to 55 before giving up, lol it was the first timed question
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so my car was still reading rich at times under boost.. tested coil and pickup and they were reading slightly out of spec, changed them out and voila! runs like a champ, just because it runs don't assume electronics are good, this may help you out..
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so my car was doing this same thing, my wideband was reading it as a rich condition, tested coil and pickup and they were reading slightly out of spec, changed them out and voila! runs like a champ, this may help you out..
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The 100 amp ebay one is working good for most guys. I saw a big improvement over stock. I did notice that if the idle speed is a little low it does not do so good. The parts store gm ones are lucky to last 6 mounts. If the shop uses good parts it may last.
I think this is why I am not liking mine, I have to keep the rpms up to keep it charging like I would like it
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you can't tell if your running rich or lean without the wideband, if it's running rich I would check the resistance on the ignition coil and dist pickup to see if they're on the way out, if it's running lean then you'll find out when detonation blows your motor up..
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it's typically an iceberg rear case, high output stator, and better rectifier. You can read up on them here: http://alternatorpar...m/7130_7140.htm
the iceberg case is for better cooling and a bigger rear bearing, because of the location on our cars and the restricted air flow these are ideal.
Any local alternator rebuild shop should be able to fix or even upgrade it.
as for the hyundai alternator I am now getting rid of one because of the lack of output during load changes, with accesories turned on it drops to 12v, and that's without the stereo pulling hard, turn up the radio and it keeps around 12v(barely), but it sure doesn't like to.
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I.D.?
Got a question for all you master mechanics.
in Just plain ol' B.S.
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