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Rexkrazy

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Posts posted by Rexkrazy

  5. urethane idle arm bushings

    in Group Purchase Info

    Posted

    Trying to get this all straight. RockAuto has a "Idler repair kit" but it says non-intercooled only. My car is an ESI-R, but it looks like my steering system would benefit from this kit.... what am I missing? Can I just buy the RockAuto kit? Will the Nolathane kit be any different (besides materials)?

     

    Thanks guys.

    Tony

  17. Difficult to start when cold

    in Virtual Mechanic

    Posted

    Amazon has the Bosch pump that doesn't need a dampener (69400) for $100 so I just ordered one. I don't mind spending for the piece of mind. Pumps just not running at all when hot, so I'm gunna point my finger :-). I cleaned the fusible link etc etc, and got noting, so I believe electronics are OK.

     

    Thanks again Indiana,

    Tony

  18. Difficult to start when cold

    in Virtual Mechanic

    Posted

    Likely not. Fuel pressure regulators typically fail by having the internal rubber diaphragm start leaking. The only other failure would be if the internal spring busts... then it'd fail to regulate to the correct pressure. Pretty rare though.

    Ya, it's fine. I watched the pressure when I finally got he car to start.

     

    The output of the pump connects to a check valve which is a one-way device. It lets fuel flow towards the engine when the pump is running; when the pump is OFF it traps the fuel between the check valve and engine. That leaves pressure in the fuel lines ready for the next time you try to start the engine. It's common for this check valve to fail with age, allowing the fuel pressure to ooze back through the pump to the fuel tank. All it means is that the engine may need 1 to 2 more seconds of cranking before it'll start since it takes a second or two to re-pressurize the fuel lines. Some folks have totally removed this check valve - it's NOT essential.

    I thought i read something like this somewhere, looks like mine is bad... I probably won't bother with it.

     

    If the pump runs when you feed the test port with battery voltage for a while... and then won't run with the test port re-connected to the battery, either the pump is bad or the wiring to the pump is bad. Most dying fuel pumps will work (sort-of) when physically cold and then jam after they've warmed up a bit.

    Thanks, I think this is the problem.

     

    likely not. If you get battery voltage (or even 10 volts) on the test connector while trying to start, then the relay is doing its job.

    so the test connector is tied directly to the fuel pump power and not the relay input? I was going to test fuel pump power directly before I replaced it, but maybe I did inadvertently.

     

    You can see the pump through the access hole in the trunk area - lift the trunk false floor, look on the driver side for a black metal plate. One screw and a lot of sticky goo hold it. Get it out, you'll see the pump's electrical connection and some of the hoses. You'll be able to see the back of the pump too but won't be able to undo it.

     

    To remove/replace the pump, you have two options:

    1: the "factory" way: drop the fuel tank. It's NOT that hard really - folks make it sound like a nightmare job when it's really just common sense. You do need a good floor jack and a flat slab of wood to support the tank while you undo stuff. Once the tank is "free", lower it just a little bit to access some of the fuel lines - you can't reach them all prior to moving the tank a little. Note too that there is an access panel in the driver side rear wheel well: remove the wheel and you'll see the back portion of the liner is screwed in place. Remove it and you'll be able to access more of the pump stuff AND the fuel filler hose that you have to undo/unbolt to have wiggle room for the tank. I like to remove the fuel filler bodywork stuff too; at least get it loose, so you can wiggle the fill pipe easier.

     

    2: Cut some of the vehicle floor away, expanding the factory cutout forwards. Then you'll have to make your own cover plate. It does make it easier to change the pump again (if needed...); some folks wonder though if it weakens the body structure. In theory, any hole/opening in a unit body structure (a "shear" structure) weakens it. But that may or may not be an issue: is the trunk floor a key structure piece (i.e. does it carry significant "shear" loads) or not? Several folks have done this... I've never done it. I dropped the tank the normal way - it gave me a chance to clean it and do other inspections too.

     

    mike c.

     

    Guess I'll just drop the tank like a big boy. haha! I was trying to avoid it for fear of rusty bolts, etc. I've dropped my share and you're right, not as bad as everyone acts like. I'm just lazy.

     

    Thanks for the input Mike!

     

    Tony

  19. Difficult to start when cold

    in Virtual Mechanic

    Posted · Edited by Rexkrazy

    well now I think the drip was just the injector firing with next to no fuel pressure. I bench tested and back flowed both injectors and they are both great. I took off the uhh... fuel manifold?? can I call it that? anyway I had to drill/easy out the plug to put in a pressure gauge. Reinstalled everything and powered the fuel pump with the test connector. It ran and I got proper pressure at the gauge. then I turned off the pump and the pressure started dropping, but the injectors weren't leaking.

     

    The FPR doesn't leak through the vacuum port. Can it still be the problem?

     

    Is there another pressure valve at the pump that could be failing?

     

    Also, after I ran the pump the first time, it wouldn't run again by powering the connector (or cranking). Also, the test connector only gets about 10 volts when cranking. I assume this is because the starter is running.

     

    Now I crank the car and there is no fuel pressure fluctuation whatsoever. I'm sure if I let the car cool the pump will run again.

     

    Ideas?

     

    Is the ECI relay possibly bad? What else could be heat sensitive and keep the pump from running.

     

    EDIT: seems obvious now. it's the pump itself. I'll check to make sure it's getting power before i go droppin the tank (can I get to the pump without droppin the tank?)

     

    Tony

  20. i need some education on a 12a

    in Virtual Mechanic

    Posted

    I use a ball valve w/ spring, + a needle valve to adjust vent pressure. Spools quick to 14 and sits on it.

     

    I made mine, but you can buy them too. Most use a vent hole instead of a needle valve. The vent is there to relieve the pressure built up behind the ball valve connected to the wastegate actuator. w/o it the wastegate will hang open between shifts. Though if your ball doesn't seal perfectly (most don't or won't soon) you also need the vent to meter the flow to keep from building excess pressure causing a boost drop (this is why it's good to have a needle valve, so you can tune high rpm boost).

     

    Anyway, you're just using a vent hole (boost leak) and it's not adjustable. Right now, if you want more boost you need to lower the pressure on the actuator line. Easiest way is to drill out the open port in the tee to vent more. BUT, you need to use a very accurate drill set and go up in the smallest increments possible.

     

    Good luck :)

  22. Difficult to start when cold

    in Virtual Mechanic

    Posted · Edited by Rexkrazy

    Mind if I add a small Hijack?

     

    I've been having a similar issue with warm starts.

     

    Car always starts strong when cold (though I usually (edit:THINK I) let the pump prime for a couple secs by habit)

     

    Car exhibits the warm start issues like a leaky injector. if it rests for over a minute it will start and then die. Might start again and but just sputter alot and die until it gets to rest for at least 10 mins. Then it will start slowly.

     

    Only, one hot day (100 deg plus) after sitting over night, the car exhibited the same issues on a cold start. It also never had this problem during colder weather in general. Warm starts would typically take longer with lower idle. I replaced a broken vacuum temp sensor in the winter but it didn't seem to have any effect.

     

    The coolant temp sensor reads 2-kOhms cold and under 300-Ohms hot. Is the one wire coolant sensor an over-heating kill switch type thing? Maybe that's messed up. Is there an intake air temp sensor I can chase? Could this still be a leaky injector? any other ideas?

     

    Thanks,

    Tony

  24. How many problems are OK for a car that "needs nothing"?

    in Just plain ol' B.S.

    Posted

    You guys are right, my initial inspection was a bit lazy, and maybe the buy was impulsive. I didn't have any experience with these cars, and didn't do enough research to really know what to look for. So I put a bit of trust in a guy who had a collection of these cars.

     

    I knew it was going to need work, but not so much so soon. The car was worth a bit more given how nice the interior and exterior were, so I thought the price was fair.

     

    I'm not trying to sound like a punk, but you guys don't think I deserve compensation for being deceived?

  25. How many problems are OK for a car that "needs nothing"?

    in Just plain ol' B.S.

    Posted

    i hope this is all a joke,, if not it sounds like a 16 yr old crying http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif

     

    i'd be ashame'd to list some of those things you say are wrong, and NO one twist'd your arm makeing you buy the car ,,,man up

    thats why we are here to help guys repair their car but it takes some drive on your part

     

    nope. not a joke. You're right that all the things are not worth complaining about. The point of this thread was to judge if the combination of all the things is worth complaining about.

     

    but uhh, thanks for the input.

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