NudeLobster

Is the kit designed to utlize stock lenses? I'd be down for LED tail lights, but reuse my 83 lenses. I'm not a fan of the smoked; I like the bright red waffles -Justin

the headlights you need a set of 7x6 H4 headlights ($20-80 dollars on ebay. I highly suggest these http://www.ebay.com/itm/200mm-H6054-H4-DOT-EURO-CONVERSION-HEADLIGHTS-KIT-/330591764599?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4cf8ce0077#ht_2710wt_1185 Komeuppance has this and did a mini review saying they are great) and then the headlights will drop right in. The fog lights will drop right in as is. The instructions are posted on DDM's website as a downloadable PDF. They even have a video I think. http://www.ddmtuning...=1&pcid=0&nav=0 PM me, or you can send money now if you're interested. Paypal: biznatchz54@aol.com -Justin

I wanted to use the castrol too! I told myself repeatedly that the increase isn't worth the cost LOL I'll look into using them in stock systems. The top brakes says "ATE Super Blue is compatible and will mix with most DOT3, DOT4, or DOT 5.1 Fluids" -Justin

I would go minimum 89 in a stock car. Tis still a boosted car, and a hot day with hot intake temps and a heat soaked intercooler could lead to detonation. If you're anything other than stock, 91-93. I put in the highest the station has In reality, even for our ridiculously huge tanks, the difference between 87 and 91-93 is somewhere within the tune of $4-5. That is on an $80-90 tank. pennies on the dollar for the good stuff. -Justin

Tye, I had a great time at your meet and I am deeply gracious for your hospitality and hosting. I am disappointed, angered,and disgusted, for lack of better words, that a member of our community tried to do that to behind your back. Had I known there was ill-intent, I would have informed you earlier about the oil cooler. I thought that member was going to/had made a deal with you prior. I hope you continue these meets as it really was a great get together of some really great guys and a really good day. Thanks for everything again and I hope we can all get through this mess quickly so we can enjoy the memories of the meet rather than be angered by them. I'll see you at the next meet, if not sooner -Justin

after idling my engine for 30 minutes to heat cycle, I retorqued my studs and each had almost a half turn until they reached 95lbs again. I plan to retorque after about a half tank of gas or ~100 miles. And then possibly again. I don't want to do a HG again. LOL -Justin

okay I'll look that up. Also, is there any other pad you would suggest? I could have sworn I remember reading a post of yours about you having the R4S pads. I'd like a pad I can use as a DD while surviving hard track sessions without worry. I feel it's far too much a pain to swap pads and re-embed them every time I have a track event (R4 for track and R4S on the street?), but I guess it could be just one more thing with changing all fluids. Oh, also, any other input on the heat range of the ATE? I'm assuming it'd be better for my pads to fade predictably before the fluid boils and fades unpredictably thanks, -Justin

Someone's gotta want that pretty Can and MAS

Both kits are NEVER used and still in boxes! ____________________________________________________________________________________ 55W 5000k H4 Hi/Lo DDM Slim ballast HID kit with fused relay harness $80 shipped (that is $5 plus shipping less than new) http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/Mobile%20Uploads/1334526654.jpg ____________________________________________________________________________________ 35W 3000k H3 DDM slim ballast HID kit with fused relay harness $50 shipped (also $5 plus shipping less than new) http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/Mobile%20Uploads/1334526951.jpg http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/Mobile%20Uploads/1334526374.jpg $125 shipped for both! Let's make a deal guys -Justin

well... better than the R4's I assume I was researching the pads when I found a forum post saying "the R4S pads have an astoundingly small amount of brake dust and had minimal fade on the track...until my ATE 200 fluid boiled" that made me worry about the temp ratings of the ATE stuff and had me looking at the motul 600 or wilwood stuff. What's your input on that? Maybe you've had better luck with the ATE or maybe our cars have more proficient brake cooling? I guess it's gotta be better than my OEM spec pads and run of the mill dot 4 fluid I had on the track last time LOL. I was not well prepared being my first time on the track. I've learned now to change ALL fluids the day before, and I think it's time to get away from the OEM spec pads because those things caked the s*** out of my wheels with dust on that track day. My polished/white wheels were honestly completely flat black at the end of the day.

Planning out my brake revamp for the summer with a few road coarse track days. How much fluid will I need, and For road racing, what temp ratings will I need? This is the list I'm working from: http://www.topbrakes.com/searchResults.php/5015/7/Brake+Fluid/1987+CHRYSLER+CONQUEST+w%2F5+Lug+wheels?manufacturer_id= I am going to get Porterfield R4-S pads. I know the R4 pads are better suited for the track but they require a warm up and with my car being a DD, I'd like stopping power right away Also going to replace the rotors while I'm in there with a new set of zinc plated, cross drilled, and slotted rotors http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONQUEST-STARION-FRT-RR-SET-DRILLED-SLOTTED-Brake-Rotors-/270938684506?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f15343c5a&vxp=mtr#ht_3340wt_1185 Already have SS lines. thanks! -Justin

What are your head studs torqued at that the head is still lifting? Mine are a touch over 90 ft/lb -Justin

SLP powerflo (straight through) is what I have. With the straight through resonator It pretty dang quite but without the resonator I'm sure it'd be quite throaty still.

yeah the big heavy one that bolts on under the steering column, where the blank switch port thing is. The one that weighs like 15 pounds and has the fuse box cover with it -Justin

keep the under dash knee panel under the dash for me when I'm in georgia... Mine has a hole drilled in it. lmk how much you want for it you're the best -Justin

fake. -Justin

^ why not? It's not going to melt is it? I may be coming in my 15mpg expedition LOL. Charge pipes still aren't back from the powdercoaters > -Justin

in the upcoming spring/summer, I'd be interested in a one piece like leefer -Justin

price drop on MAS, BOV sale pending local -Justin

swivel/second link. Then the fuel has the full fitting to flow through rather than the small restrictive hole in the banjo bolt -Justin

up up and away! new prices! -Justin

I am 99% sure it's 12x1.5. If not, its 12x1.25.....I know its 12! Just can't pin point the pitch -Justin

Before I did it on my own car, I'd need to see that audi get stripped back to its perfect OEM gloss white... Then I might do my car in flat white one day... -Justin

I can has bump? Lets make a deal people -Justin

They stress with the bait cars that they don't break the speed limits, they just take off fast to rile people up. It's not entrapment because nothing they do is forcing you to launch and race (except your ego) anyways, cops break speed limits all the time. They just usually have lights flashing too. Frenchi, while in ATL visiting, we saw a cop flash his lights, rip a U turn around and blow a red light. Then once he cleared the intersection he turned his lights off and cruised away. LOL -Justin