NudeLobster

Just to help, he needs a greddy flange -Justin

about 6 days, 50 miles. only rich in boost...like I said, idle and cruising is at 14-15 afr. If that's the case, that is a super weird coincidence that the bearing spun from that at the same time the PCV valve blows off and leans out the car causing overheating. -Justin

so sexy. I'm jelly -Justin

I want an RX7 one day. I'm a rotard at heart. If I were to do it though, I'd go the whole 9 yards and get an FD look forward to seeing it at PF! -Justin

interesting... Why was a non IC'd engine swapped to a widebody? -Justin

It crossed my mind, but its not worth starting over with a new car. I just have to accept the fact that i wont have a car for about another month. i guess once im out of school at the end of the month, ill have ample time to fix it. LOL -Justin

correct. I misfired once from being too rich but was able to pull fuel enough. I also stayed out of full WOT like that. it stays at a good 11-12 AFR at like 50-80% throttle. Found out my dad's other shop (that actually gets business) has a hoist and stand. I will be pulling the engine and putting in that 20 over fresh crank from bag o chips and 20 over clevite bearings from dad. Also ARP rod bolts. i would go all out and deck/hone block and do new piston/rings, ect, but I 100% honestly don't have the time or money for that. I might lose my job taking days off to do the crank and bearings alone, but I'll avoid that. I hate that job and want to quite anyways. I'll flush the oil cooler and lines with the compressor and carb cleaner while its still in the car. I will see how much debris is in the oil tomorrow. I know its not the right way to do it, but if i can stay away from removing the head, I will. again, time and money. I spent all my money building the top end and timing and everything and time is still an unknown challenge right now. thanks for all the help and support guys. I really appreciate it. -Justin

Driving out to a drift event to watch this morning and on the ride out there I would boost to pass people, ect. Car started to feel under powered and I saw that my AFRs were leaner than normal. under low boost it was like 14-15 instead of the 12-13 it normally is. I assumed it was my MAF-T gen 2 fuel controller so I tried richening the main scale and when that didnt work, I got worried. Then it started needing around 4-5psi to hold 70mph. at that point I looked at my main gauges and saw my temp was above 3/4 but not pegged. I pulled over immediately on the shoulder and when the car reached idle it just died. popped the hood and exhaust runners 2 and 3 were glowing red and the coolant overflow tank was boiling/overflowing. let it cool down hoping I didn't just crack my brand new race prepped head. Once it was cooled I started it and it was knocking and I looked at my boost gauge and I was pulling 14-15 hg vacuum instead of my normal 18. I shut it down and got it towed home. It idles fine but has a clear knock/mis. I got it towed home, pulled it into one of the bays at my dad's shop, and then we took my friends civic to the event. Now that I'm home, I'm here to get everything in my mind sorted out as to what I need to do to get it running. I'm going to start by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the bearings/crank. If needed, Bag o chips has a fresh machined crank I will buy, and I'll need the required 20/20 oversized bearings for it from DAD. I'm really hoping I can just put a new crank and bearings in, flush the oil system (how?), put the timing back together and put the pan back on and it will run. Is that what I should be doing? I can do a compression test but wont a spun rod show super low compression too? so there's no way to distinguished if its lost compression from the valves, or the piston, or the rod. I'm trying to avoid removing the head because I don't want to get a new ajusa and possibly have to have my head decked and stone my block again. Soo... yeah. I read that topic a few days ago about that guy who's brand new motor chewed all those rod bearings. I know i only lost 1 cause it still has a majority of vacuum at idle and idles fine (minus the knock and lower vacuum) As far as I can tell I'm not burning any fluid so I don't think I cracked the head. noticed a small amount of coolant leaking out the front corner of the HG between the head and timing cover. that was wet before, but not actively spewing or leaking...just wet. I was going to try to seal it with some RTV. It had a small amount trickling out from there when the coolant system was super pressurized and boiling. I will have to re RTV that anyways when I put the timing cover back on. I saw everyone saying to replace the cooler and lines from the metal shavings. Is there a way to just flush it out? see, my oil cooler lines are trapped in by the huge *DM intercooler pipes and its a nightmare to get those out, so I'd rather flush it out than have to pull all my pipes/MAS to get to those lines. I guess I could do new braided lines and just cut the old rubber ones on either side of the front clip and just leave that little section trapped by the pipes... I just am so depressed, frusterated, and done with working on the car. I was SO happy to finally be able to just drive it. yeah, it needed a dyno tune, but I street tuned it safe by going overly rich under boost, not lean, and i dialed in idle and cruising to a solid 14-15 afr like stock. I have about $200 and no time because May is the busy season at my work (greenhouse and nursery) so I work every friday, saturday, and sunday this month and getting a day off is boarder line losing job territory in may unless its a serious legit reason, and they will tell me having to fix my car is not serious enough. So, I will have no time to do it between school, AP tests, and work this month, but it needs to be done. and I will be borrowing money from my parents. 2nd day running the car gets backed into and gets paint damage on the front bumper, and now 2nd week running it freaking blows up on me. If I had more time and money I'd say F it and go carb'd 302, but its way faster and cheaper for me to just fix this g54. I don't have the time to part out my turbo engine, buy a new swap, and do the fab work, ect. maybe if I had a daily of my own, but I'm just borrowing my dads truck now. So much ranting. Sorry. Any suggestions/help appreciated. thanks for reading my life story, chapter 12. lol. -Justin

HOLY CRAP. I want them just for those reverse lights. Sequential lights in a cherry red lense and you have a buyer here. I know its not profitable to be catering to every single persons wants though. If more people would be down for cherry red, and you can make them though... Once i've spent the money for a dyno tune...you're products are going to dominate my pay checks. -Justin

no one?

what kind of FPR is that? I like that it fits the stock bolt pattern instead of cutting/taping an AN in line FPR... If sotty doesn't take it for whatever reason, and you're willing to part...I'll take the RRFPR -Justin

The low idle vac is a dead give away to me that it's cam related. That's why the idle is so loopy too -Justin

http://www.lolwut.com/layout/lolwut.jpg

Whenever I paste the URL into the media button at the top of the post editor, It usually inserts it with a URL code around it. Just go in and delete the URL code so it becomes the media rather than a link. -Justin edit: err, nevermind, there is no media button up there. Just "my media" which is for forum uploaded stuff, not youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYXjLbMZFmo Edit 2: so you have to type around the url. then post or preview it and it will show a messy URL code thing. go back to the editor/edit the post and just delete the code that the system automatically attached the the vid url. you should be left with: [media] url [/medi] then actually post it and/or save the edit and it will actually emb the vid rather than insert the url code again. its a pain. I'm sure there is an easier way but that's how I get it done.

The absolute only thing I HATE about my turbo timer...can't arm the factory alarm when the car is still running If I'm in a sketch area I'll still sit in the car and cool it down my self so I can shut it down and arm the alarm before I leave. -Justin

I won't make it to anything in May... May is the busy time at work. Everyone is scheduled every weekend. getting off is pretty much impossible. -Justin

Love it Robert, Nicely done. Any pics to show them in the daylight and/or off? Also, I'd be curious as to how you mounted the lights themselves cause there isn't really much anything structural near the airdam ducts -Justin

I whole heartedly wish my garage had a full, complete hardware store in the back. Stainless metric as far as the eye can see! and hardened steel too for the important bits. I hate having to spend $3-4 in gas to get price gouged and spend another 10 bucks on couple bolts,nuts, and washers. Waiting to see how I feel about the tinted lenses -Justin

I'll take either one with the clamp on end for the thermostat side, or if you have a tapped thermostat housing to include, I'll take one that has the threaded AN fittings on both sides! I need one ASAP. Now that I have a GM MAF in a blow through set up right before the OVCP, I can't snake the OVCP out from under this line. I'm going to have to stock up on copper washers and remove the hardline everytime the OVCP has to come off and I don't want to do that. a SS line running under the OVCP will be so much easier. Paypal ready! let me know what you have. I require a picture before purchase. AN fitting colors do not matter to me. thanks! -Justin

We have a 2001 Expedition XLT AWD 5.4L and with the AWD we get 11 city, 15 highway. ours is all-time AWD or locked out 4x4. I'm sure yours on 2wd mode will be better on gas. No stripped plugs yet, we just did plugs at around 100k miles (now about 110k) New struts and the thing is a tank. The driver rear door lock likes to act up and stop working with the key fob. On ours, not only does it not lock with the key fob, but you can't open the door from the inside even when it's unlocked. I've talked to many expedition owners at work when I see them and they all seem to have problems with that door's lock. Also, the front edge of the hood and front bumper will rust/corrode/peal. They all do All negetives aside though, I love that thing with a passion. It's comfortable, holds tons o s**t, never gets stuck, and never dies. I found out the tune up we did at 100k was the first one since we got the truck. It's just never shown any signs of giving up or problems. -Justin

Boosted, what system settings did you have to get the car started for the first time? I can't even get the car to stay running longer than 1-2 seconds and I'm really lost/frusterated/confused. Mine is blow through 3" MAF. IAT and Baro at set values of 2.2v for IAT and 4v for Baro. -Justin

and SOLD! Thanks Paul! -Justin

Yes, HID kits are universal to each bulb type. You get the right bulb type and wire the ballasts into the stock headlight harness and a 12v source and ground using the supplied harnesses. -Justin

Yes, logik5 or something along those lines (a member on the board here. has a white car on cobra wheels and 315 rear tires) he runs HIDs in his fogs and say the HID bulbs just barely clear the stock lenses. Those big bulky capsules are only protective covers for the fog lights. you take those off before installing. -Justin

Headlight kit pending! fog light kit still available! -Justin