intense98rt

I just got my motor past the break in stage. I'm wondering what guys with similar builds are reving to. I plan to take it on the dyno to see where power drops. For now my butt dyno feels like it starts pulling harder at around 5k to 6k where I shifted. Some basics of my build; comp clutch, Lightened flywheel, balance rotating assembly, race prepped rods, wiseco pistons, njv head, bigger valves, polished cc, p&p intake and exhaust ports, 1.6 rockers, 294-84h cam, 16g turbo, 2.5" catless turbo-back.

The teeth on the dizzy aren't in the same spot they were when matched to the cam. Make sure the motor is at tdc then you need to pull the cap off the dizzy and line up the mark to cylinder one then slide the dizzy back in.

You can buy the fittings at the auto part stores. Take it to a shop, have them remove the r12, flush the system and add it the new oil and r134a.

I messed with it some the other day. I pulled off the coupler, put some silicone on the tb and the ovcp then slid the coupler over. Clamped it down tight. I checked the waste gate flap and it looks to be closed all the way. I went for a drive and turbo spooled up fast and hit around 15psi. AFR was still in the 10's. Then after a couple miles it went back. Slow spooling and only hitting 10psi max. I replaced a couple hose clamps that didn't look tight and made them tighter. Still no luck. I didn't pull off the coupler tho, maybe still a boost leak? If it was a boost leak the turbo would be loud trying to compensate for the lost boost. It sounds pretty quiet compared to how it was when it built 15psi. Since I used a td04h with the stock housing, I thought maybe I didn't grind enough off and the wheel was hitting the housing. I took off the filter and spun the turbo and it didn't feel like it was catching. I don't think I took too much off because I kept taking a little bit off at a time until the wheel spun freely. Ideas?

We could meet up at cook out down the road from zmax at around 1. My number is 716 536 4812 if any of you need to reach me.

I looked at autozone and lowes and couldn't find that size.

Yea. I was there. I was going to run my car but I think I have a boost leak. I thought I fixed it but half way there it wasn't boosting as high.

event is still on.

If I can get them with the 335/280. Sign me up. 450/350 I think would be to stiff for the mk1 struts to dampen. Coilover bounce isn't good.

I was thinking about going around 1. I just got an email from swd. I don't think they have enough people registered right now. They said if they don't get at least 35 drivers then the event will get canceled.

Glad your ok justin. I wanted to go this year but had other things going on. If your going to part it out at your place, I'm heading up to buffalo in 2 weeks. I could use a couple things.

I put my autometer gauge in the spot you used to prime. Try that spot.

Do we get to change spring rate? I don't want 450/350

its a big lot. they use the area north of the track. They let a ls1 240 try doing an over 100mph entry. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/eaf0f707.jpg

SWD is having another event on July 10th. I don't think I'm going to drift at this event but will probably get the pit pass and park inside. A change to have a starquest meet? http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/Streetwisedrift/SWD_July_ProAM_Flyer_Image-1.jpg Pro AM Final and Amateur Drift Competition Event July 10th Z MAX Dragway Concord NC Featuring 70+ MPH Entry speeds. Tandem Drift Battles Ride alongs High Speed / Early Entry Contest Time Attack Racing Pro AM and Amatuer Practice / Qualifying / top 16 Elimination Rounds All makes and models Car Club Cruise in NOS Energy Drinks NOS Models Spectator gate open @10AM General Admission 10.00 Cruise in Parking 5.00 Kids 12 and under in free!!

I was planning on buying some any ways. so if you can get them cheaper then put me down.

are you getting rid of the tail lights?

well the valve is off and its still doing it. no air is leaking. And yes, wot and at or near full boost.

I wanted to make sure it was running fine before I put megasquirt on. Its stock mas I think. Here is a picture from before I pulled the motor. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/quest008.jpg

I pressure tested the pipes. It was leaking a little bit from the bov but mostly from the couplers. I put the stock ovcp on, tested it and it was good. I drove the car and problem remains.

No bov when I had the 12a. I have one now but the vac line isn't hooked up and it's tightened so it won't open. I'll hook it up after I get megasquirt installed and run more boost. The injectors don't have that many miles on them. They were on the car when I got it but from the info I got from the previous owner they have less than 10k miles on them.

stock

I'll post up next time I hear about something going on. Which cts would it be? One of them is replaced with a probe for an after market guage. I did a tps reset. When does the secondary injector kick in? I was thinking that maybe its getting stuck open

pics of tail lights? willing to separate?

When I accelerate, the car stumbles a little bit above 4k rpms. The wb is showing 10.0, full rich. I have a 16g at 10psi, TT injectors, built block and head, 2.5" exhaust. Before I built the motor when I had the 12a, it felt the same. New plugs, wires, vac advance, dist. looks good. Needs more boost?