intense98rt

I also suggest a trickle charge. My battery is pretty old. I went out one day and it was completely dead. I took it into autozone for a charge and test. They put it on one of the rapid chargers for 2 hours and it wouldn't charge. They said the failed and is dead. I took it into my work and put it on a small trickle charger for 8 hours. It fully charged. Battery has been fine since. I know I still should get a new one tho. Maybe my next trip to walmart. If your battery is less than a year old you should still have a warrenty. Take it to where you bought it and get a new one.

Thanks. I'm hoping to get rid of her soon. I'd like to get a 2011 wrx before there aren't any new ones left.

I've drifted mine. Besides the oil pan baffles. It's important to get a rev limiter. Doing it on stock suspension sucks. Very hard to transition. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/6935_1234832671486_1249262239_68516.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/DSCF2966.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/_MG_0118.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/_MG_0251.jpg

I found my camera. It was under my recliner. Here are more pictures as requested. http://photobucket.com/intense98rtquestforsale There were too many than allowed to post here. We have a chance of rain almost every day so I haven't gotten a chance to wash it before pictures. If you want your buddy to come check out the car have him give me a call. I'll clean it up before I meet up with him. Paint looks pretty good. Not factory quality paint job but better than 22 year old factory paint.

I got my shirts today as well. They grey looks more like brown. Here it is next to a dark grey I thought you were going to use. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/IMG_20110810_172455.jpg

I decided to do a video walk around. Easier than taking pictures.

I can't find my camera but ill take some with my cell camera tonight when I get home from work.

a/c is cold. It has r134a retrofit. Clutch I bought from the group buy here. It is by competition clutch. It's a stage 4. Stock flywheel has been lightened. Only thing leaking is the powersteering fluid. It really only leaks if your cranking it back and for quickly. Should be reliable for dd. I only drive it a couple times a month but never have any problems. I did dd it for 2 weeks right after I put in the motor to break it in. Exterior is pretty clean. It was repainted by the previous owner. Some of the clear coat peeled up from the spoiler, couple light scratches. Otherwise looks good. Interior is typical. Everything looks great except for the seats. They came apart at the seams. I took it to the track once. My first time trying to race it. Not good. I couldn't launch it good. I was getting 2.6 60'. Then at high rpms it wouldn't shift smoothly. I don't know if I wasn't pushing the clutch in all the way or what. It shifts fine driving around on the street. It moves pretty good tho. No spudders or hesitation. Almost new hankook rs-2 tires. I could meet part way if your interested.

I'm going to be selling my dd ('06 jetta gli) to get something newer. I want to sell the conquest for a downpayment. Looking to get about $5500. The odometer reads 170,000. I recently built the motor right now has less than 2000 miles on it. Used redline break in additive. Lucus assembely lube. Complete oil system cleaned prior to assembly. New oil pump. Had all machine work done. Crank was poslished, Cylinders bored and honed, surfaced, rotating assembly balenced. All clearences and measurements double checked and recorded. Motor has; reconditioned race preped rods, wiseco pistons, calico coated clevite bearings, arp rod bolts/ headstuds, new njv head "race" ported and polished, hd springs, os valves, 294-h cam, 1.6 roller rockers Ported/ gasket matched intake manifold, stressed releived and ported exhaust manifold, 19c hybrid turbo set to 21psi, gm 3"maf w/ maf-t. OVC hardpipe with bov. Vacuum lines replaced. new bur7ea-11 plugs. Stage 4 competition clutch, lightened flywheel. MSD street fire 6al ignition controller. Autometer boost gauge, oil pressure gauge and coolant temp, aem uego wideband. 2.5" turbo back exhaust. I have mk1 sway bars on the car. Not on the car yet I have mk1 struts and mk1 front and rear camber plates. It has been repainted by previous owner. dyno tuned, 259hp and 286ftlbs after 8 pulls in the 100degree weather http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/zmax-db-june2911_006-Copy.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/dynorun.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/19cquest10psi22psi.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/DSCN3154.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/DSCN3158.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/DSCN2713.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/DSCN2720.jpg

I drive maybe twice a month and do drift events a couple times a year. My 06 jetta gli is a lot more comfortable for daily driving.

About 2 weeks ago I went looking for the 7031 plugs. Napa said that they can't get them from the supplier anymore. I went to orielly, none in stock but were only showing 12 total in their warehouses, so I bought all of them.

why did it have to hit 20 so fast? I just got home from work and didn't get in. When you offer white can I order both white and dark grey? Save on shipping.

I'm to cheap to pay the $50. I used the ve analyizer in megalogviewer, which is free.

I'm telling you, forget autotune. Try the ve analyizer. Here is the site for megalog viewer http://www.efianalytics.com/MegaLogViewer/veAnalysis.html If you want to try tuner studio here it is. The lite version is free but you don't get ve analyizer live. The full version is $50. http://www.efianalytics.com/TunerStudio/

I never messed around with autotune, but I remember a mention that you need to open the settings or parameter file in word pad and change the tuning range.

ego control controller auth. set to 0 and for accel I beleive it's in the wizard, set threshold to 0

I never had any luck with megatune's autotune feature.

I can give some tips, but it's been maybe 3 years since I did any tuning. I'm not sure what has changed. Read the manual, you won't understand most of it but you will know where to refer back to when you start tuning/learning. Join the msextra forum. They can be helpful. First off, did the previous owner give you a laptop for tuning? If not then your going to need to set your laptop up. The firmware on your laptop needs to match the firmware on the MS. Each newer firmware version will have slight tweaks to work out the bugs. Some changes you won't see anything other changes you may see in the menus of your tuning software. Which tuning software are you using? Megatune or tunerstudio? I mostly used megatune because tunerstudio wasn't out yet when I first started tuning. From what I hear, tunerstudio is better. Follow the instructions to get the software installed if you don't already have it. After that is all set up, you can hop in the car. Hook up the cable from the ms box to your pc. Turn key to on(not run), then open up your tuning software. If you don't have the same firmware version on both you will get an error message. It will say something like expected"......" received"....". If that is the case you have 2 options, go in the firmware archives and download the firmware that is used in the ms. Or, you can flash the ms to the latest firmware. Flashing the firmware will erase everything saved on the ms. You need to save/record your settings before you flash. Get your tuning software open. Go to file> save as. That will save the msq. You won't be able to use that for the new firmware, but it's good to save it. You can still open to look at it. After you save it, go through every menu and hand write everything on paper. All the tables (ve, ignition, boost, afr) you can use export. That way you don't have to write it down. After everything is recorded, you can flash to the latest firmware if you choose. Read the instructions on how to use 'download-firmware'. Once your pc and ms both have the same firmware you can open up the tuning software again. Do not use open msq, you will receive a bunch of errors and it won't work. You need to build the msq from scratch with all the settings you wrote down and tables you exported. Go through all the menus again and put in the things you recorded. Then you can go to file>save as. This will be your current msq you can go back to if you don't like any changes you make. Now you can start tuning. The way I did it was, by using file>datalogging. When starting out on a fresh tune, the car will be pretty much undriveable. It will get better. While your datalogging, you want to drive and try and hit across the whole ve table(map,rpm) multiple times. If the tune is really bad you can datalog for a couple minutes, as it gets better you want to try and go for 20minutes. After you get your datalog, download megalogviewer. Open your msq and your datalog. Run ve analyizer. It will make changes to your ve table based on what your afr table is set to. Once done, export the ve table. Open the tuning software and import that ve table. In the tuning meun go to ve table, it will show a graph. Try and smooth out graph if you have any dramatic changes. Save the new msq. Go and datalog/ ve anaylize a bunch more times. Each time the ve table should get better. You have a different option if you don't want to datalog/ ve analyize. I haven't used it but if you feel like paying for the full version of tuner studio, it has a live ve analyizer. It will basically make the adjustments to your ve table while you drive. Hopefully this post helps someone on here with Megasquirt because I'm not retyping this again.

Have you been trying to tune the ve table manually or are you using ve analyizer? The ve analyizer works great for rough tuning. Make sure o2 correction and accel is off if you use it. Then once you have a decent tune you can fine tune the table. After the ve table is good, you can turn on accel and o2 correction.

Looks good to me. Put me down for a small.

I saw a couple people put zip ties all along the soft piping to keep it from expanding. I don't know if it would actually work, but it couldn't hurt and would only cost a buck for the zip ties. What kind of boost controller did you make? A ball and spring type will build boost faster than a bleeder/restrictor type.

Not really much is involved with converting. You should get a new dryer, pull off the compressor and drain the oil. Use new orings. In the conversion kit it comes with the r12 to r134a adaptor and a can from r134a/oil. Attach the adaptor, hook it up to a vaccum pump and let it run for awhile. Then, attach the can.

Drift event tomorrow. I'm drifting. http://www.streetwisedrift.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Pro-AM-RD3-copy.jpg

I like where the logo is placed on the red shirt. My vote is to remove the chrysler penta. As far as colors, I'd like it to be white or a darker grey with black print. Maybe have the mitsu logo in red.

Main relay behind the glove box. Use search for the diagram. Make sure you use wire loom too. You don't want a power wire rubbing on metal.