intense98rt

I plan on putting the motor back in my conquest tomorrow. When I pulled it I left the transmission in the car. Any tips for putting it back in? How hard is it lining the splines in the transmission with the clutch?

Hoods, doors and fenders need to be stamped for proper fitment. It's not as easy as throwing in a press brake and putting a couple bends in it.

I was thinking about making one. The previous owner put one in my car and it looks like crap. I'll need to get some measurements. What type of material? Brushed aluminum? Polished stainless? Painted mild steel? That's a possibility. I'll have to look into it. If I decide to do any of these. I'll need to do a group buy.

If someone has some cad drawings of what they want. I can do some stuff also. I work in a machine and fab shop. I'm in the fab side and do all the sheet metal work; shear, punch, brake form... I think I'm going to look into making a splitter, air damn for the ic and maybe something to hide relays and such.

yea, I wouldn't chance it. Mine had less than 4,000 miles on it when it spun the bearings and look. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/DSCN2740.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/DSCN2765.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/DSCN2766.jpg

Didn't he make some new spring top hats that were suppose to lower it 1/2"

before you dump money into the head you should look into a stand alone. such as megasquirt. you should also convert to mpi if you plan for that much power.

What do you think about this? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/DSCN2733.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/DSCN2731.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/DSCN2735.jpg

yea, I know. When I bought my srt turbo new there wasn't any shaft play. Must be they used assembly lube. When I took this turbo apart it was completely dry. Wheels almost hit the housings, there was so much shaft play. But it's better now and I only spent $80 on it. He was asking $250

I might be interested depending on price. If it's too much I'll just buy one from summit and modify it to fit.

Money sent for a stage 4 clutch kit.

I pulled the 16g apart, put assembly lube on the parts that needed it, put it back together and no more shaft play. I guess I'll hold on to this rebuild kit I just bought. Now I need to finish boring out the stock exhaust housing. Now lets see how long this thing actually lasts.

I have it on my droid. It's pretty cool. If you listen to the same station for a while the songs repeat, which is sucks. I like listening to it while I play games or browse the web. BTW, no problems with 3g areas here.

I just took apart the 12a. I think the only thing I'm going to use from the 12a is the housing. The shaft and bore in the cartridge are scoured from when the motor went.

you think it's an actual hrc turbo and not a knock off? what do you think about there amount of shaft play has? the wheels almost hit the housings. what would be the best combo of parts to use to get out to bolt up?

Yea, it looks new. Do you think it might be better to use the 12a center, exhaust wheel and exhaust housing then use the 16g compressor wheel and cover? or some other combo? The 12a has a bunch of shaft play also. I bought a rebuild kit that has whats needed to build either one. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/DSCN2752.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/DSCN2753.jpg

stock. first I put the pulley on the lathe and cleaned up the center casting about .050 so the id was nice and centered. Then, I put a piece of 4.5" tubing with a 1" wall on the lathe. I basically divided it into 3 od's. The first was about .010 over the id of the pulley. The middle part I left alone so it could space the trigger wheel out. The last part I took down to .010 over the id of the trigger wheel. I used the freezer/ heat method to get them to fit together without having to put it on the press.

It's new as in never used. Well it doesn't look used. There isn't any build up on the exhaust wheel or in the housing. I started taking it apart and it came apart pretty easy and the bearings still look fresh. So if it appears new and has some shaft play, I would think something has to be wrong. Which is why I would like to get some measurements. heres some pics http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/DSCN2751.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/DSCN2745.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/quest/DSCN2747.jpg

I bought a new ebay td05h 16g from someone on craigslist for $80. It has some shaft play. Will a rebuild kit fix that? Any measurements I should check tolerances on? Also, I'm going to have the stock exhaust housing opened up to the same dimension the 16g is.

here's mine http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/7db2f792.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/9a91b420.jpg

Do you have the exhaust housing for it?

Any more stage 4 clutch kits available? I sent you a pm yesterday.

which hoses did you replace? the hard line along the fire wall? I think I'm going to put a cooler inline with the one that runs along the bumper. how hard is it to replace the steering coupler?

What kind of things do you guys do while the motor is out? So far I removed abs and cruise. I started cleaning up the grease. The brake fluid stripped some paint so I'm going to repaint some.