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mike43

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Posts posted by mike43

  2. HKS F-Con with GCC

    in Parts for sale

    Posted

    Up for sale again is a little plug and play f-con. Plugs into the stock harness and makes your car faster, plus it has a 5 knob GCC which is like an SAFC essentially.

     

    Get you a wideband and tune your TBI car with this for the win.

     

    I will start the bidding at 400 bucks. As always, the price is not firm, but it's not made of jello either!

     

    http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC02694.JPG

     

    http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC02695.JPG

     

    http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC02700.JPG

     

     

     

    Sent you a pm

  3. Boost and Nitrous Questions

    in Advanced Virtual Mechanic

    Posted

    Alright, here I have two questions. Ive been trying to search for answers and not really getting a solid on for my buddy.

     

    My buddy just bought him a Quest "87" a few months ago. Im trying to help him do things safely as many mechanics do not enjoy working on these engines due to parts being difficult to locate.

     

    1. How much boost can you run out of the stock turbo before you start pushing "hot air"? Im currently running 18 or so on my DD with the stock intercooler with no problems. They seem to be able to push a little more than a conventional t-25 off of a 4g63t and they are good up to around 18 I believe.

     

    2. This is were things get real touchy, mainly because im scared of nitrous so I am of no help what so ever to him.

    We need to know what is needed to safely run a 50-75 wet shot occasionly..IE: weekend track meet/ random street race and its needed.

     

    The kit comes with WOT switch and a couple other things im not sure of. But I do know that you need to run colder plugs and retard the timing for nitrous. So here is where im needing advice.

     

    What degree do you need to retard the timing?

    When you retard it, do you lose any power doing so off the spray?

    What kind of plugs do you need? "rather ask you guys than ask autozone guys what 2 step colder and so on"

    What all safety features are required?

     

    This is a bone stock car "minus hard pipe, bov, and 2.5" turbo back exhaust", it is mechanically sound with around 112k miles on it.

     

    Im not completely new to nitrous, I have alot of friends that run it so ive learned about using only in WOT and above 3k RPM. Just wanting advice from other G54B owners with experience on non-jet heads. Ive already consulted him on "needing" a non-jet head for higher boost and reliability..but he is just stubborn and wanting to learn the hard way I guess.

     

    Is high boost "20psi or so" and nitrous capable on a stock motor and non-jet head safely?

     

    Thanks,

    Joe

     

     

    Hi,

     

    I'm being running high boost and Nos for over 15 years. But I agree that 112k is pushing that engine don't forget with more power you need to add more fuel, and that is way to much boost to run and then Nitrous on top. What I did years ago is add more fuel injectors, secondary fuel computer and for safety added a Nitrous computer which will ensure fuel is up, retard my timing before firing the NOS. But I would definitely invest some more money on the engine before your friend does NOS on it.

     

     

    Mike

  4. Lots and Lots of parts Most High Performance!

    in Parts for sale

    Posted

    OK guys, parting my drivetrain so the car can move on in bigger and better fashion.

     

    First off set of ronals, all 16x8. I started stripping them to get them ready for powder coating. Need to be blasted then painted or powdercoated. No center caps. 225 plus shipping

    http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/DSCN0562.jpg

    http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/DSCN0547.jpg

     

     

     

    I may not need my 7's and 9's. Decent tires that I remember. 400 plus shipping.

    http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/DSCN0546.jpg

    http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/DSCN0547.jpg

     

     

    D steering wheel with hub. 100 plus shipping

     

     

    Hi Gary,

     

    Looking for 3 in alum ahp with ports.

     

    Thanks,

    http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/DSCN0545.jpg

     

    Turbo XS BOV with pipe 75 plus shipping

    http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/DSCN0548.jpg

     

     

    3 inch radiator and 2 1300 cfm fans...... Never heat up again 300 Plus shipping

     

    http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/DSCN0550.jpg

    http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/DSCN0553.jpg

     

     

    Water to air intercooler, capable of handling 400-450hp. Much more efficient. 225 plus shipping. Comes with the intercooler, lines, heat exchanger and fan. Will include the pump if need be.

     

    http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/DSCN0551.jpg

    http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/DSCN0552.jpg

     

    Custom made instrument cluster, PITA to make. Fuel gauge is off, could have been my sender, fuel light still came on when low. 250 Plus shipping

    http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/DSCN0544.jpg

     

    Gauge set IS SOLD Also have the MSD lazer tach, nice programmable tach 150 plus shipping

    http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/DSCN0543.jpg

     

    Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator 100 plus shipping, Blaster coil, 30 bucks plus shipping

    http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/DSCN0557.jpg

     

    short shifter IS SOLD

     

    Maf-t amd Maf 160 Plus shipping No plug hardwire only. I'll cut off a bit of the starion harness so you can match up your wires

     

    http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/DSCN0549.jpg

     

    The lot of 3 inch piping and clamps. A bunch of it 50 plus shipping

     

    Intake manifold with good sensors and 75/95 injectors. Complete, drop in and go. 225 plus shipping

     

    T3 turbo kit. Comes with a stock manifold relieved, t3 flange welded on, t3/t4 turbo needing a rebuild, Wastegate housing, v band exhaust with 2.5 *DM downpipe oil feed and drain lines. It's basically everything you need to convert your car to a t3 exhaust flange. 400 plus shipping. If you buy the turbo kit and want a precision sc50 turbo I will sell it alltogether for 750 plus shipping. The turbo alone is 1k DO not want to seperate as it is made to go together

     

    http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/DSCN0556.jpg

    http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh6/GaryCHoffmann/DSCN0563.jpg

     

    If you want the sc50 turbo by itself I will sell for 490 plus shipping. G R E A T turbo. It's set up for external wastegate

     

    A few pwoplw have expressed interest so parts will go to them first. Thanks

     

    I also have the distributor that is rebuilt and had a new vac advance, ngk wires and boots for 100 plus shipping.

     

    I also have the engine/tranny combo for sale It's in my other post in parts. Make an offer as a whole.

     

    Also the roller will be for sale for best offer. It is rust free, drop in your drivetrain and go!!!!!!!!!!!!

     

    This works as you pay and give me a couple days to remove the part and I will ship it out.

     

     

    Also have downpipe back apex-i exhaust with high flow cat 150 plus shipping, prefer pick up. I'll list more as I think of it.

  5. hks f-con

    in Parts for sale

    Posted

    selling for friend,,i personally dont know to much about the f-con

    but a few guys here have run it,,with decent results

    its a bit old school

     

    http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=748

     

    http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=747

     

    includes the unit and harness,(quest ecu pictured not included),,there is a sensor that it needs,,i guess a vac. sensor...

    can be used ,with 2 secondaries,and 1gen mas,,,so im told

    was hoping for 300 plus ship

     

    hopefully someone will chime in with more info and experience

     

     

    Definitely a nice piece, I've been running it since it came out to the market, as well as all the other HKS products. All nice components and very reliable as they have lasted me over 15 years. The F-con is very easy to setup and install works very well, usually used in conjuction with the FCD chip to overcome limitations on boost.

     

     

     

     

    http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_1488.jpg

    http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_1489.jpg

    http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_1490.jpg

  7. KDM AHP

    in Items Wanted

    Posted

    I really doubt they would charge you that much for those welds, maybe if they supplied the ports and did the mock up, but it's all of ten minutes to do those welds.

    Well, don't move to NJ. One bung weld ten minutes to do, the hole not even opened up properly which I had to dremel clean, was $50 dollars. So to do this pipe and probably not very well would run me at leat $120+

  8. KDM AHP

    in Items Wanted

    Posted

    look on E-Bay for a 4" 90...and have it cut and the ports welded in. The pipe might cost you $12, the couplers might cost you $10 and to get the ports welded in might cost you $20. That's all *DM does...with his AHP you can't use the stock airbox, so you might as well make it yourself. If you want one that fits like factory, go with 101 Propose.

     

     

    Thanks for the headsup. but unfortunately here in NJ a simple single weld will run you $50. I'm not using my stock airbox but an HKS powerflow, as it is I need to modify it for my synapse bov.

  19. Leather shift boot

    in Parts for sale

    Posted

    Hi,

     

    Just wanted to let everyone know that Redlinegoods reduced their price for the shiftboot to $39. It looks great it takes about 10 days to get from day of order. I believe if we get a gp for it, he might lower the price a bit. But the boot looks great and it's real leather.

     

     

     

     

    Mike

  20. 1988 Quest and a ton of parts CHEAP!!!

    in Cars for sale

    Posted

    Okay I hate to do it but the economy has been kicking my butt so...

     

    CAR

     

    1988 white conquest - motor out - clean title

    burgandy int... no seats but... read below

    one rust hole by hatch but have the metal to fix cut from another car

    body straight

     

    This was going to be a bad butt project but have fallen on hard times and need money or I will be out on the street

     

    PARTS

     

    EVO 8 Recaro seats

    EVO 8 Dash and console

    Evo 8 interior parts

    Aeromotive A1000 Fuel pump

    custom multi-port intake (the one that was floating around on EBAY a few years ago) welds ugly but it works. I paid 600 bux for it (rip off)

    All the billet and extruded aluminum pieces to build another BAD 2 the BONE intake

    Adjustable cam gear

    Two Short blocks

    Early valve cover (of a sapporo with no hump in the back)

    Rear window louvers

    BOXES of various parts

    Gauges (autometer Phantom II)

     

    The car is at my ex in-laws in Madison, Fl... So are the parts There is a ton more stuff but I cant think of it all now... I have owned 13 of these and this will probably be the last. I also have a mud truck project for sale if anyone is interested.

     

    I was hoping to get somewhere around $2000 for everything but I am open to reasonable offers... Please somebody buy this or it will be sold for scrap weight :(

     

    Hi,

     

    any *DM parts ? ahp alum, ovcp etc.

     

    Thanks,

  21. All things Starion/ Conquest

    in Parts for sale

    Posted

    Well I have tried to upload pics of the car and engine but seem to keep having problems with errors. Not sure if it is on my part or I'm not use to the new site. Anyways, If you would like a photo of anything listed, please just let me know. I will try to send it to your e-mail. Yhanks again, Nick...

     

     

    Thought I would test the waters about selling my Starion Conquest car and parts. I am not listing this in cars for sale b/c this has been an ongoing project for close to three years. I have to many other things drawing my attention right now that continues to keep me from finishing this project. Please be patient with me. I will send pictures as request come in. All these parts are located in Hickory NC 28601. I will also reply as soon as I can. If no one show interest in the whole car I will sell parts from it. Same thing goes for th motor. But I will not dismatle the bottom end. Thanks for your time.

    The Car:

    What I have to offer is a 1987 Chrysler Conquest TSi. This car is partly dismantled. Maybe thats not the best word for it. The interior is still intact with the exception of the rear hatch area. The interior is black. The engine bay is mostly cleaned out. Some remaining wiring and hoses still intact. The car is a five speed. No engine though. I will let the trans go with the car if interested. It has a perfect set of black leather seats with it too. The wheels that are on the car now are stock 7's and 8's that were painted black. At the moment it does not have any front body panels on it, but I do have everything for the front except the airdam. There is a minor bit of damage to the bottom of the radiator core support, but nothing that looks like it may compromise the integretity of the car. The windsheild is cracked and will probably need to be replaced. Quarters are straight and this car has no rust or rot! The car has been painted a hidious purple color. I would definetly recommend a paint job...

    The engine:

    This is on a stand and was recently rebuilt with all new parts(except block). The engine is bored .040. It has JE pistons, Pauter forged rods and a new crank. All clevite bearings and felpro gaskets were used. The engine was assembled at Harrington Machine in Taylorsville NC. The engine is painted a cast iron gray color. The pan and front cover is painted gloss black. The head is a marnel spain casting. It has SS 1mm oversized valves, Schneider springs and new retainers and keepers. I have only stock cams to go with this head b/c I never got around to researching the what was offered. I have a set of hydrualic rockers, roller rockers and a set of manual adjusting rockers. I also have a stock exhaust manifold that has been mildly ported. And if anyone is interested I have a block from a 86 Conquest that has never been to a machine shop. I have been asked if it is a wide block but I'm not sure how to tell.

    Other parts:

    I have way to much to list but I will try to list what I think you guys may be interested in. I have a complete front and rear SHP suspension. This includes everything from the springs to the brakes and all in between. Also a set of SHP 8's and 9's in good shape. I have one extra 9 that has the lip polished. I have an extra hatch glass with struts. I have and extra dash in great shape. I have lots of interior parts all black. I have extra glass and trim peices for around the glass.( all but a windshield) I also have a couple extra sets of head lights with motors, an extra steel hood (86) and two extra right side doors. I have a TD05H exhuast housing(internal gate). I have a stock TD05-12A exhuast housing too. I do have a cool side 12A but the cartridge is missing.

     

     

    Do you happen to have the 3" *DM ahp pipe in aluminum.

     

    Thanks,

  22. new shifter fulcrum bushing(pivot ball)

    in Parts for sale

    Posted

    update +++20 left+++

     

    Hi guys,I originally made this for myself and got some intrest so ill try to provide these to as many people as possible.

    http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1256330730/gallery_13447_505_4235.jpg

    Price is $17+.82(pp fees) shipped first class in the us.if you buy more than one i will combine shipping.i can also install them for $60+$2.10(pp fee) this includes ball,coupler, upper shaft(choose lenght) and shipping back to you.

    Coupler and upper shafts are $17+.82(pp) for the pair.

    Everything together(1 ball,1 coupler,1 upper shaft) will be a special price of $30+1.20(pp)shipped. Basicly i'll pay for shipping if you buy it together.

     

    This is how it looks with my coupler and new upper shaft.

    http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1257040916/gallery_13447_505_24704.jpg

     

     

     

     

    If your interested please e-mail me mr.andaya@gmail.compaypal is exel@fcuk.org and heres a short writeup on how to install

     

    http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1256330730/gallery_13447_505_3558.jpg

    This should some what look like your shifter, dont rip the big rubber boot off.

    http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1256330730/gallery_13447_505_1571.jpg

    There was a c clip here, remove it.

    http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1256330730/gallery_13447_505_19673.jpg

    Clamp the upper shifter lightly. heat the upper part of the shifter with a propane torch til the glue melts and pull the lower out.http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1256330730/gallery_13447_505_20002.jpg

    Cut with a composite cut off wheel here. you might be able to skip this process by just pushing everything up but i like to do this so i can debur and cleanup the parts.

    http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1256330730/gallery_13447_505_8023.jpg

    First you take off 5-1 1 is very important to debur as it will mess up and grind the top of the "cup".

    http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1256330730/gallery_13447_505_9173.jpg

    When you try to press out the pin you NEED to support the ends of the shifter not the "cup" if you happen to support it by the "cup" you will damage it! after the pin is out you clean out the "cup" i like to polish it and clean any burs up on the inside and outside.

    http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1256330730/gallery_13447_505_11546.jpg

    Push the new pivot ball(tight fit) on and align it with the thru hole place some grease on the ball and place it inside the "cup"(if you guys need pics lmk) install the pin like you removed itand reassemble 1-5. careful the washer may be sharp, at this point you need figure out how your gunna remount the upper portion to the lower. If you just pushed everything to the top you can glue the rubber isolator back(i recomend 3m window mend). if you cut it you will need to cut the upper and add a piece of materal between the 2.i have new uppers(long,stock,short) f/s also.

     

    Hi,

     

    If possible I would like to buy the rubber ball alone to see if I can fix my grinding sound, should fit. Also refresh my memory putting this back together, the inner shift boot goes over the shifter first,then the insulator material, finished by the shifter boot ? shipping to NJ 07410.

     

     

    Regards,

    Mike

  23. 88' Starion For Sale

    in Cars for sale

    Posted

    I will NOT sell the driving "lenses" seperate, they will be attached to the driving lights...If you want them "seperate", PM JustPaus, he does great work.

     

    A complete list of parts/prices is listed at *DMperformance dot com.

     

    How much for the *DM ahp pipe, is it aluminum ?

     

    Thanks,

  25. new shifter fulcrum bushing(pivot ball)

    in Parts for sale

    Posted

    You would have to take a pic and let mee see it.

     

    to every one else that replied...... i fixed and added more pics. the last time sqc went down it lost my images.

     

    lmk

    -joe

     

    Hi Joe,

     

    My short throw shifter mimicks the stock, just mine didn't come with any rubber over the ball, so I have that metal on metal contact. This ball should fit over my metal one, no. This should slip over it right. how much for just this piece my zip is 07410.

     

    Regards,

    Mike

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