newquest86

interested in trans and clutch will call you tomorrow afternoon

im looking to do this on my 86 also this week i have the 88-89 ignitor box with the plug attached so if you need to know where the wires are located in the plug i can help also anything i find out ill post hope you will do the same

i made him an offer this morning he wont sell ! says hes gonna let the auction run ! so bid away ! or cry away !!! LOL

and if he does not pay the tickets ( if he has any on this car ) it cant be registered till they are paid !

rockauto.com look up 88 mitsubishi starion you should replace both not just one

this what you are looking for http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MK1-INTAKE-...d=p4506.c0.m245

ok this seller sells just the banjo bolt for about 15.00 shipped http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-99-ECLIP...sQ5fAccessories

this is what i have and it works ! its on my car 4 months now like i said its a little hard to see down there but it bolts on with no mods very easy hope this helps . http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-99-ECLIP...sQ5fAccessories

could you show me a pic of the one you got that does not fit ? because i bought one from ebay listed as fits honda civic, eclipse ,galant ,and a few others it comes with a longer banjo bolt and this installs on top of the fuel filter in place of the stock banjo bolt a little hard to see down there but it works

must be that jersey air ! 200.00 for a used stock turbo ? WOW !

well.................... my jvc went out over the weekend so i replaced it with an old pioneer unit from one of my other cars that i am getting rid of and the steering wheel controls work perfect with it ! this unit works great !!!!! and oh yes my car is a 1986 conquest

:character0056: and yes i see another engine exploding ! KAAABOOM ! clunk , clunk

well................. 17.00 for a fitting that you cant get just anywhere ............ or you dont drive your car ! very simple just order the right part the first time !

rockauto.com

good luck ! but you wont find one that fits just order one from dads

how much for the complete engine harness and computer uncut removed with care i want to upgrade my 86

drivers side door panel top if it has no marks or tears on it

hope this helps i had it saved as a word file i also have the original instructions from the unit saved as a pdf file if you want pm me your email address and ill send it

Re: Steering wheel controls+aftermarket stereo « Reply #5 on: 08/31/02 at 11:14:18 » Report this post to moderator(s) ________________________________________ cut-n-pasted from a previous post... The PAC SWI-6 was replaced by the SWI-X. Hear Ye! Hear Ye! My steering wheel controls are working again -- better than with the factory radio. The PAC (Pacific Accessory Corp) SWI-6 unit works as advertised. http://www.go2pac.com "PWR" turns stereo on/off. "VOL+" and "VOL-" work same as before. "SEEK" Using radio, quick touch - moves up to next frequency e.g. 101.7 to 101.9; held down - seeks next strong station. Using CD, quick touch - moves up to the next track, held down - fast forwards on same track. "SCAN" Using radio, moves up to next pre-set station. Using CD, moves up to the next disc in changer. "AM/FM" - rotates between CD/Cassette/Tuner. The only time that I use my head-unit's buttons is to adjust bass/treble controls. Purchased from Circuit City just under $60. It receives changes in voltage from the steering wheel buttons and converts them into IR Remote commands. It is smaller than 4" length, 2" width, and 1" depth. I velcro'ed mine above/behind the glove box. Making it happen --- 1) Purchase an aftermarket headunit with the ability to respond to an IR Remote. Also, controls for CD Changer are desireable. 2) Supply power to the Steering Wheel Control amp. It receives its power from the factory radio. This must be re-wired. 3) Teach the PAC SWI-6 your steering wheel commands and corresponding IR Remote command. Re-Wire Steering Wheel Control amp. a) Use a wiring harness adapter from Scosche/Metawire (87-93 Mitsu/Chrysler) to match with the connector to the Steering Wheel Controls. This connector is located behind your factory radio. The connector has five slots with four wires for '85 and older, eight slots with with four wires for '86 and younger. c) The Green/White wire receives power (Illumination +) when headlight switch is on. It receives power from the dash-board lights. It is not needed for Steering Wheel Controls. Do NOT use, unless you wish to short out rheostat for dash light dimmer switch. Your headunit should tap into the taillight circuit instead. d) The Light-Blue/White wire receives power (ACC) when ignition switch is in accessory position. Connect this wire along with red wire of PAC SWI-6 unit to the accessory power wire used by factory radio. e) The Yellow/White wire sends signal voltage. Connect this wire to the green wire of the PAC SWI-6 unit. Without being grounded, the '85 Starion steering wheel controls send voltage of 8.53. f) The Black/White wire must be grounded. These are the voltages: "PWR " - 7.30 "VOL +" - 7.26 "VOL -" - 7.28 "SEEK " - 7.31 "SCAN " - 7.32 "FM/AM" - 7.30 Actually steering wheel control amp does not send voltages -- it sends a series of data commands. Volt meter sees these commands as voltages. A test light will not work. Also, ground the PAC SWI-6 unit. g) Place the IR transmitter flasher eye under the ash tray or on the face of your headunit. A Niles IRC-2 IR MicroFlasher may be used, instead. I hope this info is helpful for anyone who wishes to use with their Conquest/Starion steering wheel controls with an aftermarket headunit. I would like to clarify a few items. Concerning the Reostat. Call the mfg'er of your new headunit. The illumination lights of some headunits (like mine) require constant 12V power. Others allow their lights to dim, just like the dashboard lights. To be safe -- tap into the taillight circuit. Concerning the PAC unit. It isn't as difficult to install as I described -- a voltmeter isn't required. I provided detailed instructions for trouble-shooting any problems that may occur e.g. testing to see whether your factory steering wheel controls still work properly. I like the DSM/3000GT radio replacement idea, but one of the advantages of the PAC idea is that you can customize your controls. When I had my factory radio, I never used my "SEEK" and "SCAN" buttons. Now they can be programmed to represent any function available on my headunit's remote. Logged ________________________________________ http://home.earthlink.net/~rbrown23/indyswebsites/ You need your headunit's i/r remote. While programming the SWI-X, it asks for you to press a SWC button and then the corresponding remote control command. Ask your stereo shop to borrow one. Unlike the presets on your factory radio, the SWI-X keeps its memory for something like 4-6 months after you have disconnected your battery. That is why the SWI-X uses power from accessory switch circuit instead of 12V battery circuit. Get it for $39.99 + ship at buy.com Just search for PAC SWI-X, or use their part # EKXXFU Indy 85 did a great job back in early 2002 of describing the install on the PAC-SWI-6, however, the unit has since been updated to the SWI-X. After checking the schematics, I've found how to install. Pretty simple: WIRING IT IN SWI-X wires Function SWI Car Power Red Blue/white ACCESORY* Ground Black Black* (or ground directly to screw in side of console) Signal Yellow Yellow/White stripe** Steering Wheel Plug Function Steering Wheel plug Car SWI Power Green/White** Green/White* ---- ACC Power Blue/White** Blue/White* ---- Ground Black** Black (as above) --- Signal Yellow/White ---- Yellow * = wires from the large connector going to the radio. Make sure it's the CAR's connector, NOT any adapters, or plugs coming directly from the radio itself, as the wire colors and pins may differ. ** = This wire goes to the 8 pin (87 and up) steering wheel connector plug. See above. --ALSO: I see no reason why a scoshe connector is needed for the steering wheel harness plug. Just find the wires as listed, and splice em in! PROGRAMMING IT Setting the "version" code: -this tells it what car -Turn Ignition(IGN) OFF -Press and hold the Programming Button (P-but) -Turn IGN ON -Release P-but (lights will blink on/off again for 3 seconds) -Press and Release P-but 5 times (light will flash each time) -Wait 3 seconds -Right light will flash 5 times (this indicates the version code is set) -Turn IGN OFF (DONE SETTING VERSION) Setting the Buttons: -IGN ON (Right light will flash 5 times -telling the version #) - Press and Hold P-but (Left light comes on) -Release P-But *-Within 7 seconds w/ Left light still on, Press and hold the Steering Wheel Button (SWB) (Left light goes off) -Release __SWB__ (Right light comes on) -Hold remote to the SWI-X's sensor eye (on the end of the black wire) and press and hold remote button. (Right light will turn off when it picks it up) -Release remote button (Left light will turn back on indicating it's ready to take in the next button) -->Go back to the * step and repeat up to here, until done, then: -Do nothing. After 7 seconds, will get 3 flashes, then flash the version #. Congrats, you're done! --Extra notes: -The instructions given with the SWI-X are currently for an 85 only. I'm not sure if an 86 has the 6 pin steering wheel plug of the 85 or the 8 pin plug for the 87 and up as described above. Check the 86 schematics under the AUDIO circuit. The steering wheel plug is actually shown as an Amplifier, which is why a constant and and accessory power need to be wired up to it, since it uses a relay circuit (the tail light relay). -When programming, if the eye won't pick up the signal from the remote, try doing it away from any lights, and keep the wire away from anything with power through it, as this may "distract" it from picking up the correct frequency emitted by the remote. -Also, be sure to test the sensor eye in various locations to make sure it's working where you want to mount it. Hope this helps. Send me a PM if any questions.d -Matt

keyport new jersey here i would be interested would have to be a saturday as well

your welcome ! as everybody says "dads the man "

dude ! go with the gm alt conversion its great ! stock cant even compare to it !!!

20.00 plus shipping brand new http://www.enginemachineservice.com/conquest.html

i installed mine today and yes the middle hanger that wraps around the resonator with the 2 long rods is welded upside down the ends that the donuts hold on to point up and hit the floor they should point down no biggie just put it in a vise heat the bend and bend it the other way so it points down

not unless you have an exhaust manifold with a t3 turbo flange on it it will not fit a stock quest exhaust manifold