ernielist

Well Im not just throwing parts at it. I have tested a lot of the components. The reason why I am replacing the FPR is because it will not hold a vacuum. From what I am told this means it is bad and would explain the loss of power when the engine is demanding additional fuel that the FPR cannot provide because the diaphram is bad in it. When I orginally got the car it was having a bucking/hesitation prob. at 3500 to 4000 rpm. I started checking the little things first such as vaccum hoses. I replaced them all still had the problem. So I checked the underhood fuel filter and it was hard to blow thru, got a new one and replaced it. This helped the problem a little bit, but things were still not right. I started replacing the ignition components and tested the car after each replacement. The car started to run better after each new part was installed so I figured I had an ingition problem and was on the right track. After replacing all the ignition components, the car still has the same problem, so I went back to fuel issues. Thats why I checked the tank which is clean. The only other items that could be malfunctioning is the FPR or the pump. Since the FPR is already leaking pressure I suspect it to be a problem. I had planned to do a total restore on the car anyway. I don't mind spending money on parts because they will be new and I will know what is new on the car. Plus, the car is my hobby, so I don't mind. If someone would like to come over and test everything our for me that would be great, but barring that, I think i'll keep throwing parts at it, because in the end, you can't take it with you, bur at least its new lol. :driving:

Whats this PPG, my shield is cracked so its on the list of replacements. I have called three local glass companies with no luck. Went by chrysler and they laughed and told me to go piss up a rope, they stopped stocking them back in 2001.

Any ideas for this. I need to check my fuel pressure. I have reviewed the service manual and they show a specific adapter to put between the fuel supply hose coming from the under hood filter going to the throttle body, but I am not sure where to get this adapter. I would like to get one of these and leave it permanantly installed so I can monitor fuel pressure at all times. Anyone know where to get this adapter or if this is the best method to check pressure since there are strainers and filters in between? The reason why I would like to install it here is it could give indication of leaking injectors, clogged filters/strainers and bad fuel pump (thats what the service manual says anyhow.). :driving:

Yea I keep hearing about megaskirt. What exactly is it, school me lol.

Lol thats funny crap. I read the label on the mech bottle and itn says its corrosive toward plastic and stuff, so if anybody is gonna use this stuff to clean their tank I wouldn't suggest leaving it in long enough to eat the strainers out of the car. My tanks clean so Im good lol.

Yea I would agree two strainers before the fuel pump is a little redundant. I checked mine and the conical filter had alaready been removed, think the pump had been replaced previously too, so. I am not gonna sweat it. The tank was really clean inside, really don't think this is my problem with acceleration at 4k lol.

Could be a fuel problem. Mine is doing something similiar. I have replaced the following: Plugs, wires, cap and rotor, ignition coil, all vacuum hoses, fuel filter. I have checked the following: dist advance, timing, fuel pressure reg, fuel tank, fuel pump. So far I have narrowed it down to my fuel pressure regulator. I thought mine was ignition too, but it cant be anymore since its all been replaced.

Well checked out the tank tonight. Everything is squeaky clean inside. Its like a brand new tank I couldn't believe. Anyhow, the conical filter has been removed already.

My dad used to use those inserts all the time on mercedes blocks. New mechanics would have a case of stupidity and use a 20 inch extension to put a spark plug in the head and cross thread the crap outta em. lol. He says they work pretty good and he has used them on twin turbos, turbo diesals, and single turbo systems.

Forgot to put in there, this is supposed to be the method for cleaning the varnish out of the tank after gas has been sitting in it for a while. The guy apparently works for a fuel tank shop that restores fuel tanks.

Found this on an internet search, what do yall think? if its not to rusted go to your local hardware stoe and buy a gallon of mek (methyl ethyl ketone) about 8 bucks, put it in the tank and roll it for about 15 mintues to agitate it then drain and inspect, if it needs more repeat process. this is the same way we prep tanks for lining at the shop. if its rusted your gonna need to line it and the liner (red-kote) is about 65 buciks a gallon and about the same to ship it (haz-mat) you might be able to buy a quart off your "guy". if you can put that in the tank and roll it until you have covered all sides drain the excess, plug it and keep rolling it until it dries. roll it to one side and let it sit 10min and so on, make sure you get all sides, you may have to do it twice. let cure at least 72 hours before putting gas back in it. good luck

Yea, I suckered my dad into helping me out lol. He worked for mercedes for like 25 years and has been a mechanic for about 40 or so. Its funny cuz they do some screwed up stuff with mercedes. He took one looko at my quest and was like what the hell where they thinking when they designed this. I told him it was one of my "special" rare cars (this equates to "hey dad, come fix it for me lol"). Actually most of the work I can do myself. I should hopefully have all of the above done within two weeks. The column is the only thing really slowing me down since I need two people to do it. I guess since you are so adament about it ill check the strainer in the tank lol. :driving:

You can get a new one from rockauto.com. They have good prices on parts. its like 55 bucks, if its leaking down the power brake booster get it fixed quick because the brake fluid will rot the rubber on your rag joint and make it fail, its a pain in the a** to fix that.

I spoke with my dad who had worked on cars for like 40 years (yea hes old). He said you have clutch chatter, could be contamination from oil or just a warped clutch plate. Change your clutch and check the surface of your flywheel. Also the noise your hearing when you take yer foot off the clutch is probably your throw out bearing, no biggie there, I had an 04 mazdaspeed that did it when it only had 5k on the clock.

Yeah I was planning to run thru the entire system, I wish the screws where easier to get out, it would certainly acce;erate things, I am gonn pull the conical strainer before the fuel pump and inspect it, if its clean I would think the in tank strainer is pretty clean too. I was really surprised that the fuel in the tank was so clean, no sign of crud at all, I don't have any rust or anything on any of the fittings and such as well, so I think i'm pretty good as far as the tank condition. I have narrowed down my acceleration problem down to fuel, and since that fuel pres reg isn't holding vac I think it's gonna be my problem. Will be ordering a new one on thurs and will have to take it for a test run. Still have to get the column back in the damn thing, the pins in the rag joint are giving me a hard time lol, cant even run the car right now....but its almost finished, can;t wait to drive it around. Just need a master brake cylinder, fix the high pressure line to the power steering pump. new windshield, and remove the ket valves from the head and I am in business. Then it goes to the paint and body shop to get squeaky pretty. Then Ill only drive it on sundays lol.

Well I dont know if my fuel pump is bad yet I have to do a pressure test on it. I drained the gas out of the tank last night and it was extremely clear. I dont really think I have a prob at the tank, pretty sure my fuel pressure reg is bad, but I wanted to look through everything to make sure.

Just for everyones info I was able to locate the mitsu part number and the glass number for our windshields, might be helpful if you ever need glass replacement: Mitsu Part Number: Mb404352 Glass # fw00493bbn

Thanks for the info. I plan to clean the strainers as best as I can then. I am wondering what genious at mitsu decided to put phillips head screws on the fuel tank access plates instead of bolts, looks like I will have to drill them out since they have been in there for 20 or so years. I was going to get rid of the conical strainer and put a prefilter before the pump with a little longer line. This way I could access the filter from the access plate in the trunk for easy replacement instead of having to drop the tank to clean the conical one. If yall say I need it however I will leave it in place. :character0028:

Yea I called two auto glass companies and they said they have no clue. They told me to call the manufacturer, can only imagine what that would cost from them lol.

Yea the conical strainer and the in tank strainer, gonna take a look at these and see what condition they are in. Is it possible to eliminate these strainers. I plan to install a prefilter before the fuel pump to take car of filtering the tank before the gas gets to the pump?

Anyone know where we can get replacement windshields for our cars?

Ok, I'll do that, I found a stocker pump at NAPA, but I guess those aren't so good huh? I did note that I do not have a fuel strainer on top of the fuel tank lol. I guess the pumps been replaced previously and someone ditched the strainer. Thanks for the info all.

Thanks Ken, I appreciate the answer. Now I know that my pressure regulator is bad lol. I just pulled the tank and I plan to go through it and clean it out and replace the fuel pump just for GPs. Any recommendations on a fuel pump. I was gonna replace it with a stock pump since I will not be needing additional fuel. I am not raising the boost or anything, so stock flow will be fine.

Awesome rig, but the injectors are new I doubt they are clogged. I have a shop nearby that cleans them, rebuilds them and balances them as well so, thats no biggie. I dont mind paying someone to do that. I pulled the tank and will be inspecting all the componants, prob have a bad fuel pump or pressure reg...:0

Iput a might vac on the vacuum advance, it holds vac. The original question still stands tho, do the fuel pressure regulators in this car hold vacuum or are they supposed to leak vac. I understand that they read boost pressure and adjust accordingly, but I assumed that a vac test would tell me if the diaphram inside was good or bad. If they are designed to leak then the vac test is useless lol.