Joel

If you run a GenII Head on your starion and stock ECU... You better either take the turbo off or drill holes in the pistons or Kaboom. You can use it with MPI, as you can adjust the fuel and timing curves appropriately. Best suited for Race gas however. Compression goes WAY up, with flat tops likely up in the 9.0-9.5:1 range. Joel

The Bosch O2s like what most of these run (I.e The Innovative LM1) The sensor MUST be at least 18" back. I would suggest a little farther then that. Stock location would be a BAD idea. Joel

You can use the E6X (the successor to the E6K), or the E11. Any of those systems would work for your car. I run the E6K, which is almost identical. The E6X has a few added features. I'm no haltech salesman, but I would give the haltech a thumbs up. Joel

Health and track regulation reasons. Unless you buy a sealed and vented box... or a sealed battery, they won't let you race as you'll never pass tech. Some places can be REAL sticklers for the rules. They MAY even make you have an external cutoff switch. Use the larger diameter tie downs as well (I believe NHRA rules say 1/2" in diameter). Rules... they suck, don't they? Joel

I'd suggest doing it right, or you'll do it twice. Wiring is definately not something you wanna get stranded by. Joel

I moved mine to the rear of the car. Its not to difficult. If you do that, I would suggest a sealed battery like the optima. Joel

I wish i knew about it when i bought mine. Mine was one of the first of the batch that started this whole adapter plate fiasco. I had to retorque damn plate again today, Blegh. Joel

I know I'm not to hot on the plate idea. It's pissed me off more than impressed me. Joel

Best is pretty subjective. Best way to find the right ECU is to read up on them all and find out how YOU want to setup a car. One ECU might not allow datalogging, for instance... and that may be a requirement of your that you couldn't live without. That would change your idea on "best ecu". Don't rule out Haltech, AEM, Motronic, Autronic etc. Some of these ecu's may cost a little more, but sometimes its worth an extra few months of savings if it has the features you want/need. Joel

I believe the best way to do it is the same way your ECU got its power... From the ignition harness. That is how I set them all up on any car I've installed an ECU in. Joel

I'd need a wiring diagram to tell you that. Joel

Supposedly it was done so that way any of us that switch to an Aussie head won't have to undo the weld up job... just remove stupid plate and thats the end. Oh well. Joel

You must use this adapter. I promise 2 gaskets (one on each side). Aussie gasket should go between the adapter and the manifold, and on the head side of the adapter will be a US style intake gasket. Joel

I personally would not suggest to hog out any head port, no matter if the head is restrictive... thats just my opinion though. 14.0@101 isn't bad for a car that has a crappy clutch that won't hold! Joel

YOU LAZY SLOB! ;D Nah, I don't need them from you. Art here showed me exactly what I needed in these pics, and answered the other question I had. Thanks for trying though, I do know how finding time can get out of hand. I know how it is trying to balance the whole car forum thing, 2 kids (one thats only 4 months old), etc... Amongst everyone that knows me coming over and asking me to do things while im trying to get other things done. I swear I spend more time on damned RX7s these days then any other car... : Joel

Thanks. Diameter is something I was interested in. Haven't been under the hood to measure what I would need so your info saved me the trouble. I'm gonna order one, the SDS trigger I'm using is a PITA. Can't quite get a mount that'll line up exactly how I want and be removable without re-alignment when I'm changing parts. Always takes about an hour to re-align ...Tired of it and this is my resolution. Thanks! Joel

I use that WB Meter they are selling. You don't have to purchase that from EIP. www.tuneyourengine.com I've had no problems using it, although I doubt it'll report lab grade results like a horriba. It may or may not be accurate to .01AFR, but most home tuners/hobbyists will get along perfectly fine with that unit. Joel

Whats the diameter of your 60 -2 wheel? What sensor is used, the 1/2 or 3/8"? How much for a replica of that bracket? I can weld up my own, but wouldn't mind a quote. Joel

My injectors are fired by two "drivers" (only 2 wires, split into 4) on my haltech using low impedence injectors. They have settings in the software to double up the driver internally. The Hawk doesn't do sequential injection. Not unless they came out with that new one in the last two weeks and I missed it? It does do batch. Joel

The Hawk will only do Batch fire. 2 at a time. Likely, like more other kits, the 4 -Ground leads for the injectors can be traced in the harness to only two outputs. Hook up a DVM and check continuity between all those leads. 2 of them will show as being connected most likely. In all cases I've ever seen, you have to read the referance material to find out what injector is fired in what order. Usually you have two outputs, basically INJ1/2 are together, and INJ3/4 are together. Depending on your spark mode, trigger setup and the software settings, you would figure which goes where rather easily. If your in batch mode, INJ1 & INJ2 would need to be on the cylinders that would always fire together (1 and 4), and INJ3 & INJ 4 would go on 2 and 3. You would of coarse have to verify which injectors are wired together in the harness or designed to fire at the same time. In multipoint mode, it simply doesn't matter at all. All four come on together. The only setting that would matter is a software setting (injection pulses per ignition event), and that would only effect mostly fuel economy and idle quality. Most ECU's have MANY injector output wires, but how you wire it really depends on what the system supports, how the software is setup etc. The hawk everyone has been buying (I think its the EC21?) supports Batch mode at best. That simplifies your life some, becuase you know that they will fire in sets of 2. The injection pulses per ignition event will fire will adjust how often (every time or every other time in your terms). I would correct that to say Every time is 2 times per complete cycle, or every other time is once per complete cycle. To simplify, you have 2 injector output drivers, but they "pre-wired" the harness for 4 total output WIRES. That means, they are grouped by two, and now you don't have the job of splitting the outputs yourself... they did it for you. Find out which pair is firing together first, put that on 1 & 4. Then find the second pair, and hook to 2 & 3. Joel

Just wondering if anyone has had any luck getting the Grease/Grime/Oils off the front of the HVAC control so it looks clear again. I've tried everything I can think of from Paint thinner, Plastic polishes, toothpaste, Comet, 0000 Steel wool (which seems to fog it up more than clean it) etc. Anyone have any luck? Joel

Careful on using a ford TPS. They all seem to read "backwards". Most ECUs dont seem to like that I would just have a flange machined. Joel

This is what I'm still working on. http://www.tristarion.com/gallery/albums/userpics/DCAM0004.JPG

There's already a hole on the other side for the bracket you can use. Seems odd that the manifold would be made so it was harder to install then easier. ...BAM there it is: http://www.tristarion.com/gallery/albums/userpics/DCAM0003.JPG Joel

I know a fast way to fix that regulator clearance problem I run a ford 4.6 TB as well. Take TB off, rotate 180 degrees. Reattach... Send check or MO to... Joel