89Steve

PM'd you. My roommate has an MPI conquest for sale

So I've now tried 3 methods tonight... Got myself a pneumatic pressure bleeder from harbor freight...didn't really do much of anything except pull some aerated fluid through. Next I tried gravity bleeding. After half hour (and a lot of fluid) with no result I started to have a friend push on the pedal, I then closed the bleeder, he released. I then released the bleeder, let it gravity bleed for 3-5 minutes, and repeated. We did this for an hour and a half. No joke. Got zero result. I had pressure on the clutch for 3-5 pumps but then it just went back to nothing. It's been years since I've been this confused by a car problem. I have no idea what I could be doing wrong here. I'm going to talk to a friends dad who owns a shop tomorrow but if anyone has anymore suggestions they're certainly welcome.

What's the idea behind this? I've read up on gravity bleeding but intuitively it seems that the traditional pumping would work much better. I'll definitely give it a try though

Me and a buddy have been trying for over an hour to get this clutch line bled. Still getting air. Reservoir is actually OVERfilled to ensure no air is getting in. It's getting better but after 50 times of yelling "UP and DOWN" to eachother and almost 3/4 of a big bottle of brake fluid this is getting a bit ridiculous. Pressure is getting better and works after 5-10 pumps, but theres clearly still air in the line. Any suggestions here as to what I could be doing wrong? This should be one of the simplest parts of the clutch replacement job :mad:

It looks like they are all AC relays so I'm going to do away with that tree. Looks terrible for something I won't be using. I like that COP setup you have there. What is the controller used for? Is that an ignition computer? Also rear calipers were rebuilt a couple years back so they should be good. I remember speaking with you a couple times Scott. You helped my roommate Ethan out a lot when he was trying to troubleshoot his car. I don't know if he told you but he actually got it running pretty well. AC isn't necessary to me. It's never worked and I don't really mind it except maybe 5 days out of the year. Then I just ride my bike. I can out-brake the ABS in this car and the system is really heavy. I have no problem doing away with it. Thanks for the info on the passing relay, looks like that will stay

After many months of preparation I've finally starting getting into my MPI project. My goals are as follows: * 300-350 Reliable WHP * Comfortable DD/Weekend car * No ABS, No AC * All around fun street car that can hold its own at the track and around a turn I have a lot of work done to the car and it's been running for about 4 years now in close to stock form. I love this car, but it's time for TBI to go. This is going to be a pretty slow build cause I'm finishing up my senior year as an ME student and am an officer in FSAE. The build will progress as quickly as time allows and I want to use this forum to document progress (keeps me motivated :-) ) The first step is going to be painting the engine bay. I'll never be satisfied with this project if the engine bay continues to look terrible. I'm thinking about painting it black, it's a white car. Any thoughts? Also I have a few questions off the bat here as far as what can be eliminated and what can't. The plan is to use MS2/3 and a coil-pack/EDIS setup for ignition. 1. Can anything be eliminated from the relay tree below or does this not have anything to do with EFI? http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/c367be0f.jpg 2. Does anyone know the use/purpose of this relay? http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/ab4554a8.jpg 3. As far as the factory EFI harness goes, I'm ok to cut that right off correct? It seems that I won't have to reuse any of this I will keep this thread updated as my (probably slow) progress comes along!

If you separate this I'd like the intake manifold. PM me if so

Sorry guys haven't been on for a month or so... the issue did turn out to be my lack of grounding the motor. Ran the factory ground cable to the chassis and she fired right up Thanks for all the input

To eliminate the ABS, it seems like all I have to do it run a braided line that connects the two lines shown in the picture below. Is this correct? http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/1299f3ef.jpg Also, what is this? I assume something to do with EGR but can it be done away with? http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/48ffd3c6.jpg

Is it necessary to run a huge ground wire all the way back to the block? I've never seen a battery relocate do that. Won't I be able to get the same effect by simply grounding the motor to the frame?

Thanks for the replies guys. It seems my problem is that the engine is not grounded which was pretty dumb on my part. I'm just wondering why it worked for so long and then all of a sudden failed. I'll give it a try tomorrow and let everyone know the results. Also, all of the wires that were originally connected to the + side of the battery are now connected to the junction block.

No, the battery is now grounded to where the spare tire sits. The positive cable is ran from a junction block in the engine bay to the trunk where the battery is now located

A few weeks back I relocated the battery to the trunk. I used 0 gauge wire and ensured that no part of it was touching ground. Well after a few weeks passed I noticed that my battery was getting pretty weak on start up. It would always crank and start but just sounded weak while doing it. I can't remember if this trend started before or after the relocate. Anyway, the battery is 3 years old so I figured maybe it was time for a replacement. Went and got a yellow top, everything worked fine for a few days. Then I noticed THAT was starting to get weak which shouldnt happen. Then one day I got home, went inside for 15 mins, came back out and she didn't have enough juice to crank. I could hear the starter trying, but couldn't turn it on the compression stroke. So I jumped it today to try and get it in the garage...here's what happened: 1. Slow cranking, not enough juice to start it. Waited 5 minutes 2. Now the starter is just clicking, not even trying to crank. 3. Next try instead of clicking there is just a humming noise 4. Fourth try I get the humming noise and electrical SMOKE (can tell by the smell) coming from both behind the instrument cluster AND where the throttle cable is held to the throttle body. From there I've been looking for shorts but have not come across any. Some of my connections need to be tightened up but I can't see how that would cause the smoke. Is it possible that my starter has failed? Any ideas on what I can look for?

what color is it? Any rust or dents?

PMd you

This is an awesome color combo and the car looks really clean. GLWS!

I have a 19c on there right now and I'm finding I'd prefer a bit smaller of a turbo. Does the 3" exhaust rattle or have a muffler on it? I've had 3 exhausts for this car now and all 3 have had rattles I'm looking for something I can just bolt up and not have to worry about the noise

If anyone has either of these for sale in good condition let me know. I'm looking to have both of these put on very soon Steve

Maybe I missed it in the post but have you tried new injectors? If not I think you've already figured out the problem

Do you know the correct voltage/amperage that the bulb should be rated at?

Mine burnt out and the writing on the bulb is all messed up. Any idea where I can order one or if pep boys/autozone have an equivalent?

Thanks for the reply Shelby. So the plan then is to put everything back at TDC, make sure the cam marks are all aligned, and then would you suggest retarding or advancing the crank one tooth? Or is there really no way of telling

No we were just changing it because it had 130k on it. Balance shaft belt was not touched. I don't think it's a bent valve given the compression readings have "below OEM limit" variance. Although it is possible one may have now been hit while cranking if the timing was off. First thing I want to try here is advancing or retarding the timing one tooth. I just don't know which to try and also if I should do it on both cams or the crankshaft. I'm trying to think...would the timing being too advanced or retarded potentially cause low compression?

Hey guys -- been a little while since I've posted on here. Starion is still running like a champ...I'll probably be going MPI this winter too :-) I'm helping my buddy work on his Integra this week and we've run into a snag. We've replaced the timing belt, water pump, and idler pulley and now the car won't start. The problem is low compression. A compression test showed 120,140,110,110 PSI throughout the motor. These honda motors should show above 150. Also, as the motor cranks it is obvious that the compression is low given how fast it turns. Both him and I have checked the timing five times over. At TDC there is a mark on the crank that we had lined up perfectly and both lines on the cams also lined up with the factory timing marks. After some google searching I found that the timing being off could cause low compression resulting in a no start. My question is does anyone have any advice as to which way I should test moving the timing belt first? The motor turns CCW and I was thinking of retarding the timing on the cams one tooth first and see what that does. Any advice would be helpful...been working on this for 3-4 days and have had little progress which is very frustrating

Chad, When pure_insanity suggested looking into hysterisis I googled it to see what I could come up with. I found another guy suggesting the use of diodes, but my question would be how are the diodes wired in? Do they go in series with the signal wire to the ECU? Also, I am 99% sure it is a VR sensor, not hall effect. What do you mean about the sheilded wire being at the ECU end only? The wire is sheilded pretty much all the way from the VR sensor to the ECU. Is that not the right way?