BADBAJA

Just starting this swap. Got the 91 stang motor and t5 from a guy that ditched the stang. Then he tried to put the 5.0 in a early explorer with the t5. He tried to do the wiring but stock stang wiring is a nightmare. So then he bought a new painless 5.0 harness ($500) and it was still to much. I picked up the whole rig for $600 delivered. Pulled the motor and t5 sold off a few explorer parts and made back $250 scrapping it. So I got a complete 5.0, t5, Hedman headers, painless 5.0 engine wiring kit with check engine light. Brand new clutch and pp, and a few other goodies. A little about me. I have been doing 12volt wiring for over 20 years. Over 20 engine swaps from fi to carb no problem. this is now my business and this will be my show car to display my talent and skills. The reason I chose the 302 is mainly price and not having to modify the vehicle much. Aftermarket for the 5.0 is huge, and they have forged guts from the factory. Also the dizzy is up front, do a turbo with tune and you can be in the 10s. Back to the swap. I picked up this 86 with a bad engine smolder, it never caught fire but did smolder so bad the fire department would not open the hood. It smoldered for over 45mins, complete meltdown of upper engine. The battery was literally lead plates no plastic or acid. I purchased it for $180 from my neighbors dad (I didn't have a $20 to make it $200 even) they said they didn't want him to have it anymore. He was og owner. Took me months to get it clean. I will try to find a pic or you can prob go back in profile and see? Anyways it was one clean job after I was done. Really really clean for the 4 banger. Well it had a slight rod knock from the beginning and the back of the valve train has a Crack. It runs decent, made a couple car shows and impressed but forget about reliability. Well I was just saving to get paint but then stumbled upon the 5.0 and had to snag it (Ty babe). So I decided to strip down the motor and put explorer water pump and timing cover. This brings the water pump snout about a inch and half closer to the motor. Hoping to not have to cut the front support and keep the bay simple. Also the explorer pump and timing cover is supposed to cool better. The main goal will be reliability. So this next week is the beginning of the engine removal. I would like to keep the 4cyl going (it still runs and drives)and pull the existing harness and ecu and transplant it into a smaller chassis rig like 70s datsun, or yota. A 88-89 harness and ecu would be best but I am not throwing coin at that project yet. I would clean the motor up and get a new head also. I just got the stock heads back on the v8 and as soon as the 4 banger is pulled I will be mocking up stuff. Trust me I have memorized the 302 swaps on this forum and the other swaps as well and want to thank all for showing off your work and descriptions.

Going to start pulling my 86 harness and ecu to put in a smaller chassis vehicle. I want to keep the dash in if possible. I have over 20 years professional experience in 12volt wiring, done at least 20 engine swaps. I know the engine harness is integrated with the body harness and makes it a pita. I will be pulling fenders and front bumper and motor. I have the fsm downloaded. Just looking for any other pointers. I would prefer to get a 88-89 harness and ecu but that will have to wait.

More pics in the showroom. I like it and everyone else seems to when they see it. Diamond plate and hardware is getting plasti dipped. Front air dam is getting color matched raptor liner.

Here is the before pics of when it almost caught fire. It smoldered so bad the fire department sprayed it for 30 mins before they opened the hood and up and under where ever they could. They said it would have ignited the second they opened the hood when it caught oxygen. The lead plates were visible when I bought it in the battery. I bought it for $180. http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/IMG_0574_zpszkqyloel.PNG http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/IMG_0573_zpstkd20vwq.PNG These headlights are nothing like I have seen. They are sealed Sylvania with honey comb looking metal inside them. I will get better pic. http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/IMG_2861_zpsaaiuzzsu.JPG Smart Start http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/IMG_2806_zpsodey5qke.JPG http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/IMG_2708_zpsqdi92mf1.JPG http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/IMG_2706_zpse49jynpd.JPG I have some small fog lights in where the reverse lights are. http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/IMG_2634_zpsg12bn5zt.JPG http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/IMG_2633_zpsgmwarqhf.JPG http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/IMG_2632_zpsj7tgdk7k.JPG http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/IMG_1950_zpskenwoezw.JPG

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/SL380758.jpg http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/SL380428.jpg Painted black now on the exhaust http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/26b7f3ec.jpg http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/bd1af7fd.jpg http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/SL380733.jpg http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/SL380722.jpg http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/810a6644.jpg http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/afec063a.jpg http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/6ebc7f83.jpg http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/20140124_133308_zpshlkb4z7a.jpg http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/20140124_135840_zps8t0a5ph7.jpg http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/20140126_104431_zpscnlnurpn.jpg http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/20140126_104507_zpspvg35jas.jpg http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/20140126_104946_zpskwdlwihw.jpg

Naw they cool man! Can stand on it. Maybe 2 more. 1 on each side

Here's a couple pics http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/20140124_133308_zpshlkb4z7a.jpg http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/20140126_104507_zpspvg35jas.jpg http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/custom/20140126_104946_zpskwdlwihw.jpg

What would be shipping be to Vancouver wa 98685? For just the tops?

If anyone can use the bottom I need the tops.

Title says it all. Need 10 or so for my 86 good shape. Text or email is easiest way to reach me. 3605675042 Tony. Paypal only. Shipping to Vancouver wa. 98685. Thank you.

I need that triple o seven, dibs. 0007 Shipping to 98685 Vancouver wa E mail me gime2469@hotmail.com send amount and paypal addy

It's a plx m300. They are good widebands. I just picked up another one for the Camry I am building for $80 used. Here is a short video clip.

Just need the single pipe but if the price is right who knows. I am building this on the super cheap If you want to help with one of the cleanest engine bays please help a brotha out. Email is best wat to reach me and send pics to. Gime2469@hotmail.com

Some. Lol

I will try to get some pics underneath for you guys. Pretty much it goes in the factory exhaust location until half way back. Then there is a hump in the sheet metal underneath the car if you look. It's perfect size for it to exit right under the door. Well I wanted it further back so I put another bend to have it go back further. You can see the black pipe underneath in the pic. I could have went bigger but this was my first side exit and first homemade tip. I used 2 1/2 aluminized that's why I used the nicer slip on clamps so they can be removed multiple times without crushing the pipe like the regular clamps do. I also do not plan to raise the boost much so 2 1/2 should suffice. Wideband placement is a weird one. Some manufacturers go close like plx and some go far away like aem. I always go by what the manufacturers suggestion. A friend of mine is a gm master tech specializing in boosted corvettes. He has 32 years under his belt and he ALWAYS puts the Wideband as close to the turbo as possible. He even said mine was to far away. Lol

It restricts it but it's alot bigger than it looks. Same thing I tell the ol lady and it's kept her around for a bit. Try to get a sound clip for it tomorrow.

It's so the squirrels don't leave nuts on the inside. It pops off With 1 screw if I want. Sorry bout the iPhone pics.

Here is a couple pics of my custom homemade side exit exhaust. I used 2 of the nice slide on clams and a flex chunk 2 1/2" all the way to the tip. http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/26b7f3ec.jpg http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/5304bc5b.jpg http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/bd1af7fd.jpg

Listen here brotha I am with you. My motor has been giving me issues since day 1. Check out the ford 302 swap. It can be done in a week if you find a stang with 5sp I find stangs on CL for 1200. Drive line could set you back 2-300 cu$tom. Then boost later to match handles. Have fun

Yes it is possible to swap with motor in. What is best way to clean crank and parts under the car? I was going to use light emery cloth to polish them up a little better.

Hey Thanks guys. I will look for a set today. Stay away from the KING if I see them.

Hey Thanks guys. I will look for a set today. Stay away from the KING if I see them.

AG 0.25 C4466 AM I need a set asap http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/6527761d.jpg

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/6527761d.jpg

Not sure the size of the bearing also. It reads AG 0.25 C4466 AM What does this mean?