Shane Sullivan

Okay time to go kill the guy at the machine shop i specifically asked him to replace the guide and he assured me that he didn't need to.

$3000 takes it really hurting for cash

$3500 is as low as i would like to go

Alright well the time has come for me to sell my quest. I like the car a ton but my bank account can't continue to support a car I have only driven a week or two and owning it for nearly 6 months. I have finally gotten everything fixed up properly only thing it really needs is the turbo rebuilt again, just had it rebuilt and something was installed incorrectly, to make a long story short it smokes when coming out of boost but only then normal driving absolutely fine. Head now has just over 100 miles on it since I fixed it again. Asking $3800 which considering I have very close to $5000 in it is reasonable. Anywho, run down of mods n sich. 1989 Chrysler Conquest TSI 88,xxx original miles '85 Caravan head with mechanical lifters Jet valve eliminators Schneider valve springs TEP cam Stainless 1mm oversize valves All new retainers All new locks All new correct adjusters for mechanical lifters Ajusa head gasket Aluminum intake pipe Aluminum charge pipe HKS SSQV K&N filter 1G MAF Turbonetics boost controller All new coolant temp sensors ARP head studs Full 3 in exhaust with wideband bung New Optima blue top Bottom end was rebuilt 7k ago including -New pistons -New bearings -New ARP rod bolts -Crank cleaned and polished -Rods cleaned and polished -Cylinders honed Interior Autometer oil pressure Autometer water temp Borg Warner boost gauge Peak racing 5 point harnesses Professionally installed fuel cell Walbro 255 I am sure I am forgetting some other things but any way here are the issues Timing needs a slight adjustment Previously mentioned turbo issue resolved (likely will have this taken care of this week) Rust around the rear wheel arches and behind the front wheels Stock temp gauge reads hot but is incorrect Front lower fascia is crack and has been crappily repaired by the PO Can contact me either on here or on my cell day or night I will reply 615-five nine eight-0862 Anyway on to the pictures http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/RedzIonGuy/photo-1.jpg http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/RedzIonGuy/DSCF4761.jpg http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/RedzIonGuy/DSCF4762.jpg http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/RedzIonGuy/180723_195751507120503_100000569654811_666207_6889410_n-1.jpg http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/RedzIonGuy/182050_195751523787168_100000569654811_666208_1329092_n.jpg http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/RedzIonGuy/IMG00623.jpg http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/RedzIonGuy/DSCF4727.jpg http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/RedzIonGuy/DSCF4704.jpg http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/RedzIonGuy/sdc10018x.jpg

I am about to sell my 89 Conquest Wide Body List of mods too long to list, currently is not running but will be this weekend. Ran amazing before valve stuck. Problem has been corrected and the turbo has been rebuilt. PM me if you are intrested

Dude I have been through this crap too, turns out my gauge in the dash was bad, could replace coolant temp sensors as well

Alrighty here's what happened/ is going to happen. Let's start with the past tense first. The shaft play was from running an oil restrictor because the car was puffing blue smoke between shifts, turned out to be residual oil in the intercooler due to the last turbo being blown. I thought the turbo might be getting too much oil and could not drain it fast enough, the restrictor was on there maybe 5 miles if even. That 5 miles was enough to destroy both thrust bearings. Now onto the valve. What happened was two pieces of foreign material, small in size got in between the guide and the valve stem, eventually heated up and seized. Okay now, I had previously mention that as soon as I got it fixed it was sold, this will not be the case, in fact it will be quite the opposite. Before I get into that I would like to give a big thanks to Dad (I believe Engine Machine Services) for hooking me up with a new valve. I can't thank you enough. Now, I am going to put the car back together and drive it for a short period of time. Here is a small list of what will be done to it in the following months. JE Pistons (Will be ordered next friday) Pauter Rods Custom MPI setup including sheet metal intake manifold and mustang throttle body 1000cc injectors Custom Mid mount intercooler Holset HX35 or 40 havn't decided yet Tial 44mm wastegate Custom equal length twin scroll manifold Megasquirt Adjustable cam gear New much larger cam I am sure I am forgetting a few things but you get the idea. HP goal is 400-500 on e85 or race gas I do have a couple questions about the stock crank and it's ability to hold the power, would it be worth going with TEP's race prepped crank? I will not daily drive this car so this will all get done eventually. I am aiming for the end of summer. Not rightly sure what I'm going to do with it when it's done, but it will get a cage and what not. What can I say I am in love with these cars and even though at times it pisses me off, I am the kind of person I like building cars and working on them more than I like driving them. I am sure I will have many more questions, Thanks in advance, Shane

I think you may be correct, I went back and checked for shaft play and there is a ton of side to side, however there is no damage to either wheels. I also did not see any damage to the piston other than the valve hitting it. So whatever went through it must not have been very dense. When I pulled the rubber intake off to begin disassembly it was ripped along the back and was about half way ripped off. So it very well could have been a piece of rubber from that

I bought the head used from a local salvage yard, I had it checked out after I disassembled it. I then bought all that was listed above. Schneider valve springs, TEP cam, and stainless 1mm oversize valves were used. The only thing I did not do was load the head, the machine shop did that

"Rebuilt" it had all new Guides Cam Seals Springs Retainers Locks Adjusters Valves Jet Valve Eliminators The only thing I reused from the head was the rocker arm assembly and the head it's self both of which were cleaned extremely well

Nothing was sucked into the motor, I pulled the head today, the valve just froze in the head. The valve itself hit the piston denting it but not cracking it. Nothing entered or exited the motor. And if you want to know why im selling it, its because Im tired of fixing it. Time I've owned the car, 5 months, days I've actually gotten to drive the car 16.

Little to none

Mechanical and all was adjusted properly, i will check on timing tomorrow. When I set the head, the timing was perfect and ran flawlessly up until this point. I highly doubt timing jump, tensioner and what not had very few miles on them.

Spring doesnt look broke, retainer and lock are still in place, I havn't pulled the head yet, so dunno about the oil or not, all the other valves and everything are perfect, the head is basically brand new

I am so sick of doing s*** to this car. On my way home tonight got into boost for a second or two then no power and was making a weird noise. Finally got it started back up and the most god awful ticking you have ever heard coming from the head. Tow it to my friends shop and pull the valve cover off and the valve on cylinder 3 intake side is stuck open. Head had 731.6 miles on it. Why the hell did it drop a valve? Poor machine work? I am going to see the guy who did my machine work/ loaded the head and give him a piece of my mind tomorrow. Expect to see this car for sale when I am done putting it back together.