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Gz21

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Posts posted by Gz21

  1. Yeah, 65lb injectors here too. They work fine. 20psi has got to be pretty fun. I couldn't believe the feel of mine on a rich tune at only 10psi before the WG was sealing right. Took up to 4-4.5k to get that much boost at the time. Even for the few seconds there it felt scary really. Now that the WG is fixed and spooling, no more leak, the new tune should be wild.

     

     

    What turbo are you running?

  2. Had to use 1:4 on the x axis to get it all on one screen. Shoot me an email at turbo1@charter.net and I'll reply with the who ecu file. You can just open it and check it out. You can barely see the numbers after converting this screen print to a jpg.

     

    Thanks chip. Just sent you an email from gz21@excite.com

     

    Craig

  3. i'm running a 17c at 18 psi and i have no fall off. what boost and injectors are you running?

     

    I have 65lb/hr injectors and have the boost set to 15psi. Before the MPI, the car seemed to pull alittle harder up top. Not all the way to redline but more then it does now. It is not rich, when on boost the car is typically between 12:1 and 13:1. I think that is pretty much where it needs to be.

     

    I thought the "c" wheel turbo lost efficiency over 15psi? That is why I have never had it set any higher.

  4. I should be able to get a screen print of it but that might take a little while. Having trouble with the computer I tune the hawk with.

     

     

    No problem. I am not really in a hurry. Just started playing around with the car again and I would just like to compare another map. I am wondering if that could be some of my problem on the top end. I haven't seen anyother hawk maps to compare.

  5. Yes. MPI really is that amazing. Even with a 12a and a proper tune you get amazing numbers ;)

     

     

    That just seems like to small of a turbo for MPI. I have a 17c and the power seems to fall off above 4000-4500RPM. I have been thinking about changing to a bigger turbo unless there is something I am missing in tuning it.

     

    Chip, is there any chance you could post your ignition map? I have the Hawk as well and I would like to compare it to mine.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Craig

  6. I have two of the mitsu valve covers for sale. One is perfectly fine and the other only has the one bolt location for the timing cover i belive on the FWD engines that was broke off. See second pic. It is just at the surface, not through the cover. $20 each plus shipping? I want to get rid of these as I have had them sitting around for a couple years.

     

    http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10020/Valve_Cover_2.JPG

     

     

    Two pics of the one with the bolt location broke.

    http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10020/Valve_Cover_1-2.JPG

     

    http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10020/Valve_Cover_1-1.JPG

  7. If you want to use the hall effect style you need to swap the wire from the A2 pin.   I talked to the guys about this too and that is what I was told to do.  

     

    The gray boxes you see are the shields that are on those wires.  They are tied into the ground wire that go to the pickups.  

     

    I can help you on wiring up the dizzy but I dont have the information in front of me.  I will get it in a few days and post if for you.

     

    Craig

  8. For you guys that have a wideband sensor mounted, did you mount it in the stock location?  I only ask because I was reading on PLXDevices website and they state that they should be mounted a min of 24" from the block or turbo are if exposed to exhaust gases over 850C the sensor will fail.  Now I am not sure what the temp of the exhaust is right after the turbo but I just want to make sure.  
  9. Thanks guys.  This is atleast a start to what I am looking for.  That and I just got off the phone with Steve at EFI Hardware and i got alot of good help.  Basically the Hawk is looking for a voltage from the oxygen sensor.    And .5V is stoich at 14.7:1.   I am using a standard narrow band oxygen sensor.  I did not know they are not accurate for tuning other then at steady cruise. So where can I get a wideband oxygen sensor?  Right now at steady cruising mine varies from .5 up to about .8  I am trying to bring this down closer to .5
  10. I have a question on air/fuel ratio's.   I have been tunnig my car during the last week and it is actually going good, much better then i thought.  I am using the hawk on my car.  But I dont think that matters much for my question.  There is a scale/guage on the hawk tuning screen that shows the air/fuel ratio and I have an autometer air/fuel ratio gauge.  The voltage from the oxygen sensor is displayed under it the one on the hawk.  Based my air fuel ratio gauge and the hawk my car is high in the stoich region while steady cruising and sligtly rich while under boost.  I want to know...If the car is showing full rich on here...what kind of air fuel ratio does that correspond to?  And what kind of voltage is a good stoich mixture for cruising?  I am sure somebody has to know this.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Craig

  11. Guys,

     

    What type of fuel pressure regulator is everyone using?  Right now I have the one that came with the magna on the rail.  And I think it is the cause of my problems with tuning.  When i rev the car up my fuel pressure drops slightly.  With the magna regulator at idle my fuel pressure is 35lbs.  When I rev up the car it will drop momentarily and then go up to 40lbs.  My issue that I currently have is when I try to rev the car quickly from idle it bogs/misfires and then revs.  But I if I go slowly it is prefectly fine.  I have read about everyones baseline fuel pressure and it ranges from in the high 20's up to 50lbs.  I am using 65lb/hr injectors.  So far at idle I am still running rich and do not think I am gonna be able to turn the injector time down enough to be able to get the air fuel ratio correct.  

     

    I would like to get a regulator that would just drop right in place of the magna one.  Anyone have one?

     

    Thanks,

     

    Craig

  12. Well I finally got everything done and was able to start the car tonight.  It seems like it has taken quite some time to complete the swap but it already seems worth it.  And all I did was start the car and play around with it at idle so far.  I am using the Hawk and it seems like it might be slightly time consuming to figure out all the settings but will be well worth it.  I am going to try to get some pictures of everything this weekend and will post them in between tuning.  Hopefully if the weather is nice here a few test runs will happen over the weekend.

     

    Craig

  13. mitsusqueeshee,

    I mounted my throttle body upside down as you stated.  You might be able to get the stock cable to work but for me the bends were to sharp.  I just figured it would be easier to make another one up and have it go straight out of the firewall and right up to the TB.  I should be complete with mine this weekend and I will try to get some pictures.  

     

     

    Jonathen,

    How is the idle controlled with the SDS?  Do you have anytype of Idle speed motor on it?  I am using the Hawk and it can control a stepper motor for the idle but the Ford TB does not have provisions for it.  I am alittle concerned the idle might not be steady because of this.  Could you let me know.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Craig

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