topher87

ya i had the same problem on my 87 just clean the terminals and any thing the touches them and fuseable link(black box next to the batt.) and charge the batt. thats what i did and she has started fine since then

ok so i was looking around and i have decided to upgrade to the fidanza also i was wonder if anyone knows where i can get a name brand clucth kit/set (centerforce hays zoom ect) 240mm cause of the upgrade, i am pickie about my parts and dont trust the ebay brand also i would like it to have a more holding power and a higgher lbs and hp rateing cause i plan to make so more power in the future :hmm3grin2orange: thank for the info it has helped me tons the noob

stops the time delay on the rear wiper or at least thats what it does on mine

so i adjusted it to 1/4 inch of freeplay today and it still slips but not as bad so the next step is a new clutch any suggestions ?? i know it has to be the 225mm. also i checked the pin assmebly mentioned by edde and looked ok a little out of round but didnt look like an egg, the pin moved a 1/16 if that, in the hole. thanks for all the help so far ps anyone know how much a stock flywheel weighs the noob

ok so i did said pinky test today and the pedal didnt move till it hurt my pinky( i think about 15 20 lbs of force) so on the next warmer day ( its like 20 in ny) i will adjust the freeplay back to spec. thank you all for your help and ill post the outcome after i adjust it thanks the noob

ok so i did some homework on this one lol the 225mm clutch is from 83 to 5/87 and the 240mm is from 6/87 to 89 is this correct ???? how can i tell the month on my car is (title, engine tag ect.) also could i use a 88 89 stock flywheel on my 87 and buy a 240mm clutch??? thanks for the input so far the noob

thats what i thought but it engages about half way off the floor also if it is in gear with the clutch is disengaged and you floor it to 4-5k the car starts to move foward if in 1st backwards if in rev

ok so my clutch is slipping, could it be anything else beside the clutch ( slave TOB ect.) before i spend the time and bank for a new one. the car is a 87 quest thats bone stock and the pedal feels firm but not to hard and it only happens under boost like 5th gear cruising about 3K and punch it is the only time it slips also if it is something else how do i check your theory?? thanks the noob

do you have the color code for the darker red. i love that color would buy it i had the bank

a pluged cat if you have one

what psi do they hold to "UN crushed" thanks the noob

i read the stuff in the FAQ and ill give it a try when it warms up a bit. the car is stock and after getting it up to "operating temps" it idles about 800. also after boosting hard sometimes it skips not bad but enough to notice, and it will only do it once or twice and then be fine thanks for all the help i have alot to learn (and alot of wreching to come) the noob

the other day i went out for a ride in the quest. i strated it and let it warm up while i brushed it car. is was idleing high(about 1500rpms) but figured it was normal cause it is 20 degress out and then the car all most stalled and then started to idle normal (about 900rpm) got in it and the temp gauge was moveing off cold drove it and it was fine. this is the frist time i have heard it do this and was wondring if it was normal?? thanks the noob

i just want the ECU how much shipped?? to the 13126

just the ECU wont need a boost controler or air fuel??

how much boost can i run with the stock set up (87 quest the car is a complete stocker)??? if i buy a manual boost controller could boost the heck outof it? if i did would i need a air fuel gauge to moniter it?? or an 89 ECU?? thanks the noob

I am looking for a 3 inch exhaust and a IC to TB pipe with a BOV ne web sites or something thanks