Foreverzero

Hey guys I appreciate the fast response. Good to know. How I would love to go MPI right now but it's just not an option for another couple of months.

Hey guys. Honestly I hate to resurrect an old thread like the one here on FIP: Old thread, but I'm completely lost as to whether the overall opinion of FIP has changed or not. I see FIP TBPro setups and Hurricane setups frequently but I read in a year old thread that FIP had shut down and no longer offered any SQ products. I'm a bit confused because their site is still up and operational. Not only that but I've seen several relatively recent threads about people involving their MPI setup etc and they're using FIP products. So to make this real short and sweet, I'm dying to know the answer to two questions: 1. Is FIP still up and operational? And if So... 2. Are they worth buying from now? Meaning are people receiving their parts from them and is shipping still taking month(s)? I'd really appreciate any info on them or past experiences as I'm in a bad spot right now with my 86' and they're looking awfully tempting (if available. Thanks, Zero

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Chasm2530, you've got a PM

Update: I've still had no luck in finding any calipers. Still in a big need for at least a good rear passenger caliper or a set of rear calipers. I can paypal immediately if anyone comes through. Let me know thnx, Cam

Intake still available. Price lowered to 60 shipped!

You've got a PM :thumbsup: and yes payal works perfect for me

Bump, still for sale Price lowered to $70 shipped

Heres a pic for those interested Mookeh Intake Pipe

I ended up not needing this intake after all. It's been installed on the car before but never used. All couplers, clamps, and the bov return are included. Letting this go for 60 shipped. This would normally run 120 shipped. Paypal only. Thanks for looking, Cam

thanks for the responses guys. yeah autozone quoted me 60 bucks plus a core. not the worst option in the world but being a broke student makes me want to look in other directions. jollyrgr, let me know if you come up with anything

Just like the title says. Mine took a dive on me so I'm looking for another one in good shape. I would prefer to buy it singularly but if someone has some that they can only let go as a pair that might work too. Drop me any pics (if available) at wp0170171@otc.edu or just pm me an asking price Thanks for reading, Cam

I see exactly what you mean Shelby; thanks for clarifying. I wanted to ask, if the problem were to be a bad injector (or two), then would that show up as an error code through the ecu? Also, there's really no way for me to word this without sounding dumb so I'll just come out with it. If I were to check to see if there were any ecu error codes, would it only show me ones that would trigger a Check Engine light? I just wanted to ask that because the 'check engine' isn't on and hasn't ever been while I've owned it. Just figured I'd ask that before I went out and bought a volt meter

I've not verified the map sensor as of yet. In the morning I'll fire it up and pop off the hose running to it to see if it's getting a signal. I would assume it is but it couldn't hurt to check. I'm a little confused as to what this means: "keep in mind error codes are a sensor signal is out of range NOT a part is bad message" I'm not running an A/F meter in this car. I've run widebands in past cars but this was just supposed to be a simple, mildly modded, endeavor. No fuel mods and probably not turning the boost past 10-12 psi. So far it's never even been past stock.

All emissions equipment is still on the car except for EGR and secondary air box. It's still using an oem PCV valve. It's on stock boost so I dont' know how well an FCD would help me here. I was actually planning on doing patra's Zener Diode mod if I ever planned to turn the boost up a considerable amount. It's also using a stock MAF still. I called a couple buddies with multi-meters and hopefully I'll be able to meet up with them tonight to check for error codes tonight. thanks for the replies guys!

I did a couple of searches and looked through the FAQ section and I know I'm just blind because I'm sure they're there. Do you have a link by chance? Also, I have a mookeh hard intake pipe and when I removed the stock accordian boot way back, the donut reducer was pretty torn up and I wasn't able to re-use it. Without that, it's kind of impossible to have a snug fit on the compressor inlet so you bring up a good point. I'm thinking I'll head out and grab some hosing with the same outside diameter as the coupler's inside diameter so that I can cut off a slice and make a new donut.

The ovcp originally only had the fitting for the wastegate so I had a bung installed for the second IAT. The only reason I've ruled out failed MAF's is because nothing changed about the first one when I did the original install, and nothing has changed with this new maf in it either. I'm keeping it in mind as a possibility though. I'll definitely read up on the FAQ and find out how to pull the trouble codes and I'll post up the results tonight if it works

Full Story: Well I'll do the full story here and a reader's digest condensed version below for any one that might go blind from the wall of text :crutches: . Alright, when I first purchased the car, I road-tripped it home and it gave me zero problems. A few weeks later I decided I wanted to lightly mod it a bit so I grabbed a TEP ovcp and a K&N for a 1st gen dsm (I read somewhere that they would work). After the simple install I took the car car out anytime it got near boost it would stutter hard and refuse to go any further. Undriveable. So naturally the first thing I thought of was a bad boost leak. So I checked all connections and even though I found a couple minor ones it still didn't fix the problem. I then took off the K&N and took a look at the black plastic on top and saw a tracing of the honeycomb design of the MAF etched in the oil. So I figured the top of the filter was crammed in the can so hard that it was actually blocking off the main inlet and it was only breathing through the unmetered section. However, that didn't work either. After hearing that most 86's that go without a MAF (with varying results) I decided to give it a go. I unplugged the maf and that seemed to cure the problem. However there were some drivability issues imposed now with having no MAF. Couldn't blip the throttle (you had to lay into it), higher idle, not quite as smooth. But hey it was driveable and thats what I needed to get to class. Recently I've gotten tired of the drivability issues and wanted to get them sorted out by putting the maf back in. It's been over a year since it's been in but last night I tried it and immediately the idle was better and it seemed to be doing better. That is, until, I got anywhere near boost and then it's back to square one. I remember when I first got the TEP ovcp there were some major fitment issues. I bought it used and maybe it was one of the earlier ones or something but it never fit quite right and so now I'm thinking that may be the culprit as this is screaming "boost leak" to me. Other than that, all I could think of is maybe the harness or the maf plug is damaged in some way or maybe there's something I don't know. And so I call on all you Condensed Version: Car has severe cut and jutter issues with the maf plugged in anytime you get near boost. Without the maf plugged in, the problem disappears. I've gone through two MAF's thinking it might've been the problem but it's not. So what does this sound like to you? Boost leak, ecu issue, etc? Thanks to all who've taken the time to read, Cam

Just like the title says. Stocker recently got a hole in it so I'm in the market for one. At the moment, I'm looking for a stock one in good shape or a used griffin. Thanks for reading

I know it's pretty unlikely but just as the title says I'm looking for a Bolt-On 14G or possibly 16g, 17c, etc preferably used. I'm really trying to steer away from buying a brand new one from FP or turbochargers.com so if you have one you'd like to get off your hands let me know

This is still up for grabs if any1 else was looking at it. regretfully, I have to spend my $ on other things at the moment. so bump for a one off piece

You've got a PM :thumbsup:

You've got a PM

Does this include the gauge cluster hood as well? Would you also be willing to sell the suede shift boot and center console lid? If you have those still I mean. I'm in Springfield, MO (65810), but I'm very very interested and have no problem paying what the shipping costs would be. Let me know asap

awesome post Mike, I'd been looking all around for some info on stress relieving :thumbsup: