Foreverzero

Well I just got done testing the CTS. We checked the resistance at multiple temperatures before and during startup (with it unplugged of course) and couldn't get a reading off it at all. Just had the OL displayed. I take it this means the CTS is completely broken. On a side note, do the CTS's readings still matter when the car is completely warm and running or is it just a mechanism for use on startup before the O2 has warmed up?

Hmmm I see. Would it be wise for me to still test it then? The problem doesn't cease when the car is completely warm. Much to the contrary, it only starts once the car has been running for a few minutes and has reached normal operating temperature. Does my original suspicion of the 02 Sensor seem like it's worth checking out or ? Also, if I'm reading the S.O.S. manual correctly then I should be removing the CTS's 2nd Terminal with the Yellow/Green wire to test the resistance, correct?

Komeuppance, thanks again for the fast and detailed response. I had no idea there was this wealth of documented information in the S.O.S. manuals. I'm pulling the CTS sensor tonight and having a friend with a multimeter come over tomorrow afternoon to test the resistance in a pot of hot water. Egg ---> Face ..lol Indiana, thanks for that pic. Don't know if I would've been able to find the CTS without it

Thanks for the quick response, the pic was helpful too. I checked and verified that the MAP and Altitude sensor's vacuum hoses are running to their designated ends and that there are no holes in the hoses. I know the car is designed and built to run with the MAF plugged in, but the car has had this problem for so long, and it's been my daily the whole time, so I haven't had much of a choice but to go with the lesser of two evils and run the car as is. Till now of course. I have no idea how to check the integrity of the Coolant Temp Sensor or how to correctly do a TPS/ISC reset...

The Problem: * The car will start up, idle, and run fine but after 10-15 mins or less, it will become completely undriveable. Idles very low, bucks a little bit, and wont' accept any input from the accelerator. * Since the car is an 86' I've been running with the MAF unplugged which cures that problem completely but invites another.... ---> With the MAF unplugged, the throttle response is kinda poor, and it's running pig rich The Rundown: * The car is an 86' wide body with... HRC Super 16G 2.5" Aluminum Hardpiping, HKS SSQV, & moddd stock intercooler 3" Turbo Back, Ported Manifold MBC set at ~13psi few other misc things that don't affect airflow * Plugs, wires, injector clips, MAF, have all been recently replaced so I know none of them are the culprit. (Even the MAF and IAT pigtails are a-ok) * Compression is fine, head gasket is fine, NO boost leaks ( A loooot of maintenance has been done on this car) With that being said, I'd really love to get my response and MPG (crappy as it is) back. I can't think of anything that would cause something like this BESIDES possibly my O2 sensor. I'm no genius when it comes to our stoneage EFI so I wanted to get some input from you guys as to whether or not a faulty O2 could possibly be the cause or whether or not I'm overlooking a crucial element. Thanks for reading and I'm looking forward to hearing all of your input

John: Bingo Komeuppance: <3 As to the pertaining topic, I think a good starting place would be the 240sx. S13 and S14. I've got a couple friends with both so I'm gonna see if I can get some numbers hashed out this week and go from there.

Hmm this girl got derailed a little quickly. My goal is not to persuade any person or party that a front strut bar is needed or beneficial to any particular application. I simply have had good, personal, results in the past and am intrigued by the prospect of modifying vintage jdm bars to suit my purpose. I mean it could and has been argued as a waste of money but that seems a little arbitrary when many in our community would spend the same $ on 86 door handles, oem louvers, oem mudflaps, etc. (Not that any of those are what I would call a *waste* of money) In the end, I don't really think most of us care what another owner does to their car, they simply don't' want their views or principles discredited. That being said, I just wanted to get some data and opinions. John, I absolutely agree. It always seemed more effective, not to mention structurally sound, to mount the plates at all 3 holes. What kind of metal are you using on yours? lol btw I've been a long time lurker on your buildup thread. Absolutely stunning from top to bottom. Truly one of a kind.

Well by no means do I *NEED* a strut bar but I'm not really in the market to spend 300+ on sway bars right now. Besides I'd rather do that in the summer when I can also do poly bushings. I know strut bars are often seen as frivolous and unnecessary in a lot of cars, however, in the two cars that I've personally had them in I absolutely noticed a difference. (MA70 supra & FC3S rx-7). It wasn't night and day, holy s***-kind of difference but it was completely sufficient for the 100 bucks I spent. Not only that but if this is successful then you can have bars from companies that never made bars for our cars. Mines, Carbing, Greddy (Grex, Trust, etc). Yes I'm a total slut for companies like Mines, etc. Johnny thanks so much for all the pics and insight man I appreciate it. What generation of neon are the pictured bars from? If you wouldn't mind pulling out a tape measure, do you know what the length and height of them were?

Yeah I see the cusco bars pretty rarely and I'm sure like you said it'd be a pain in the tail at the end of the day. I'd gladly go after one of the S&M tri-bars if I could find one, linking the strut towers to the firewall seemed pretty legit.

Well guys I'm in the process of amassing everything I need to get this thing's stance in order but I'm drawing a blank on one particular issue. Front upper strut bars are hard as hell to find, if you can find one at all. MKI always has rear bars in stock but I just about never see any front ones, second-hand or otherwise. Now there's no denying that a front strut bar is not gonna make near as much impact as sway bars, but with the new semester coming up I'm not looking at sway bars and poly bushings until mid-summer. So what I intend to do is find out what dimensions a bar would need to comply to to be able to fit a starquest, and buy a bar that has those dimensions. Obviously it wouldn't be a bolt on a affair but, they're also not terribly complex. If a bar fits the dimensions needed then with a minor amount of cutting, bending, or welding it should theoretically fit. My question goes out to all starquest owners that have a strut bar and could post up the dimensions. I can then cross reference that with other possible matches (240's, RX-7's, MA70 supra's, etc). Or if anyone has tried to do this before and has any relevant info (or horror stories lol) I'd also love to hear. Thanks very much for reading, hope the wall of txt didn't sear your retinas.

I tried a couple times but no response thus far. As of right now I've got it covered with Newquest86. Now just have to cross my fingers until payday

weekend bump

Bump "/

Still haven't been able to find one of these. The pigtail wiring on mine is pretty haggard so I'm trying to get ahold of one with the pigtail in good shape. I tried checking for a new one from the auto parts store but no such luck yet. I'm AWFUL at checking my threads so the best way to get ahold of me is to simply PM me. I badly need one of these and hey while we're at it, the stock MAF pigtail for an 86'.

Sold to wrngwae! Awesome, I'm gonna do my best to get them shipped out today before work. If for some reason, I can't get them out today then they will go out tomorrow (Sat) without a doubt. They'll most likely go FedEx. Thanks again, and I'll PM you with the tracking info as soon as I can.

yowza I didn't know it'd blow up this quick. yeah paypal address is medicinewoman@mchsi.com lol don't laugh it's the one my whole family uses. I work at 1pm so if I get payment tonight then I can get them shipped out tomorrow before work. As it's pretty late already, you might not get this message in time so if you send the payment sometime tomorrow afternoon or later then the best I can do is Friday. Thanks

Hey guys I'm going with all new custom piping with my IC setup so I won't be needing these anymore. Up for grabs is a TEP OVCP With a TurboXS RFL blow off valve And an MK1 charge pipe (turbo to IC pipe). They are both powdercoated black and in good shape. The OVCP has a few scratches but nothing out of the ordinary. Comes with ALL needed couplers and clamps which are all in good shape as well. I'm including the BOV with this for free as I just need to get them gone. I will not seperate. First one to paypal 85 gets it shipped to their door. Pics are coming very soon! Thanks

Yowza I completely forgot I had made this thread and tbh had kinda given up hope. I just shot him a PM, hope he still has it

Just as the topic says. The sensor that screws into the upper IC pipe. This should have a length of wire and a pigtail attached to it. Please let me know if you have any leads. Thanks, Zero

I honestly have no idea what you're trying to say here. I also fail to see how copying and pasting an HKS catalog page helps your point. I think you've just proven my point to a T. So uh have a good one, and glws

In-Cor-Rect. The do not by any means or under any circumstances make different models of blow off valves for different cars. The SSQV3, SSQV Black, Racing Single valve that one guy buys for his WRX is the exact same bov that another guy can buy for his Supra, Miata, Evo, etc. I really dont' know how to make it any clearer. There is not a single shred of evidence, written or otherwise, that says HKS uses different blow off valves for a given kit, depending on the car. And wrong again. Just about every high end aftermarket automotive manufacturer spends ample time in R&D. This does not have a direct correlation with price. HK$ is expensive because of it's name. It's a company that's had a lot of time in business and has gained a reputation. Much like automotive manufacturers themselves, HK$' reputation precedes them and amplifies their prices dramatically. In fact there are several well known tuning shops that dislike their BOV's and their electronics (F-Con, VPC, GCC, EVC, etc. It's hard to not notice that many people who are planning on big dyno numbers often choose Tial bovs and AEM EMS instead of SSQVs and F-Cons.

No all SSQV's manufactured are the same depending on the model. All SSQV3's are the same, all SQV Racing Singles are the same, etc, etc. The only difference in price owing itself to the different piping that will accompany a full "bov kit". For example, a kit for a 2nd gen DSM is lower than the cost for any RB26 equipped skyline. Not because the BOV themselves are different but because different supplementary pipping and accessories are included. A brand new HKS SSQV3 from HKS themselves is quoted at $240.00 Proof I honestly don't know where you're getting that number from as they don't make a BOV kit for our cars anymore and people are well aware that they do not cost $388.00

I have an HKS ssqv on my car too, and granted they are pretty expensive but I've never seen a universal ssqv go for that much. The only ones I see go for that much are the ones included in the bov "kit" with a pipe and a couple hoses meant for a specific application. PDodson is making a very legitimate point. The odds of getting your initial investment are pretty bad

I'm sorry but to be frank anyone who can easily see a multiple page thread about people wating several months at a time to get a product and STILL sends money to this guy is asking to get shafted. Page after page of complaints, letdowns, excuses, blowoffs, and bs. Honestly how much more black and white can it be? Everyone here has access to this information and if you choose to ignore it then...well.. http://www.motifake.com/image/demotivational-poster/small/0906/the-shaft-resident-evil-shaft-demotivational-poster-1244051320.png

Bump Paying top dollar!