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MOD was announced today by Mitsubishi! It will happen on July 14th, 2012 at the headquarters in Cypress, CA. We had a decent showing last year so lets continue to show the SoCal Mitsu community the coolest cars at the show. Be warned, there is limited parking available so in order to guarantee a spot in the parking lot, we will need to be there really early. there is always a line to get in and that line was about a mile long last year. Im thinking we should be there by 5:30 AM. if you have any better ideas, let me know. Also, another member and my self arrived from the East which worked a whole lot better than coming from the west. ill show you why once i get a map up. FREE In N Out FREE goody bag Dyno Contest Here's the address: 6400 Katella Ave. _______________Cypress CA, 90630 Who's coming? 1. hachidestroyer 2. SOTTY 3. DryBear 4. StallionProject86 5. RF600 6. joey_crandall 7. leesfer 8. starzky 9. mistapickles 10. cryquest 11. SOTTY (again) 12. nfelge 13. dstar88 14. 15.

For starters..... You guys remember Cliff Russell? The kindly old gentleman who's car I promised to put back on the road, and all that? Well, after setback, after setback, after setback....... That's right....I built the short-block yesterday, and finished up some other goodies today! Cliff's car will run again soon! In other news, I am loving my storm chasing thing. Last weekend, I went to Norman OK, and partook in a Severe Weather Forecasting class. They say you can't teach an old dog new tricks, but I managed to get this bad boy....it's a little tough to make out the fine print, but that's not a certificate of completion. I achieved a technical certification. This place is pretty exacting about the training, so if you get one of these, it means you did doggone well. If you show up, and make an effort to learn, you get a certificate of completion. And, I went on my first chase Thursday night. Wasn't TOO exciting, but spotted some rotation, and managed to get a few extra hail dents in my truck. My first little merit badges! Tim

Do NOT plane/surface cut an aluminum head for a MITSU G54B, 2.6 liter engine. If it is warped, have it BENT flat again at the machine shop. Make sure that the machine shop measures that the centerline of the cam bearings is within spec between all of the cam towers after bending. If they are not, then you will smoke the cam bearing(s) integral to the cam towers and corresponding head cam bearing surfaces and the head is trashed. There are many many posts on SQC discussing this. If it's warped too badly to bend flat and/or get the cam bearings centerline in spec, get another head!!! jrhgolf23 - based upon your above responses, I'm not putting you down, but I do not think that you have the required experience/knowledge to determine if a head is good or not or economically feasible to rebuild by looking at it at a junk yard. There are many factors to be considered, such as - condition of the cam journals; where to look for typical cracks on the head, how many are there and how big the crack(s) should be before walking away from it; loose or pulled out intake manifold and ESPECIALLY exhaust manifold studs, what condition are the rocker arm shafts; what condition are the rocker arm's slipper contact surfaces to the cam lobs; how badly is the head warped; are the exhaust valves turbo valves; etc etc etc. And you will probably have cracking problems again somewhere down the road within the next 40K miles if you buy a worn out piece of crap that has been subjected to many many heat cycles. If you get a crap head from the junk yard for $20, the real potential exists, that it may cost you more to repair it and bring it up to turbo specs than getting a GOOD low mileage Starquest head from the Parts for Sale or Parts Wanted Forums. Just make sure that the head you buy is a mechanical lifter head if you have a mechanical lifter head now or a hydraliuc head if you've got a hydraulic lifter head. Or you can convert a mechanical valve train head to a hydraulic lifter one by swapping the valve train or visa versa. If you rebuild a head make sure that it has the turbo exhaust valves which are different than the NA exhaust valves. I believe they have a G5M on the valve. The intake valves should have a G5 on 'em. BTW - use your existing MITSU OEM head bolts cuz they are just as good if not better than the ARP head fastener system. And they will not POSSIBLY introduce more crap into the game of keeping the head's fasteners at their required torque values. This has also been documented because of the many posts which document the ARP head studs backing out of the MITSU G54B T engine deck holes. I'm still using the SAME MITSU OEM head bolts that came from the factory after replacing, because of excessive heat cracking/rebuilding, 3 heads over the 408K miles that my '88 Starion has on her clock. However I retorque the heads 3 times after installation to make sure that the head gasket has the required tightened compression tension on it. There are many posts about how and when to do head fastener retorquing. I hope that this helps you make an intelligent decision on what head to buy and head fastener system to use. For What It's Worth. KEN