CForbzy13 Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 I have run into a few problems with my 88 Starion. First one is when I go to turn the headlights on, they flip up but the lights do not come on. The fog lights also don't come on, however that is linked to the headlights, so I am thinking that maybe the switch has went bad which doesn't allow either to have power when I push the button. Does the switch have independent wires for the headlights to pop up and then come on? Second issue is that, the car idles great in park and neutral but when i put it in gear to drive (automatic) it drops about 200 rpms and shakes the steering wheel some. When I take it out on the road everything runs and feels fine until I pull up to a red light were the power drains and begins to make the car shake like it does when you put it in gear. I have noticed that when I brake the amps drop down making the car do this. I am wondering is there a ground issue somewhere on the car that I am missing or something that I am unaware of. Does anyone have any thoughts on these issues?........need some help, been trying to figure it out for quite awhile Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwolf Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 I don't believe your putting into gear and headlights are related. I had a big problem with my headlights at all and i have heard that the switch can be a problem...but it wasnt mine. MikeC pointed me in the right direction by replacing a fuse that isnt for the headlights...so please make sure you DOUBLE check all fuses...even if it doesnt say its headlight related. My fogs still do not work and that could be the switch i am not sure but i did get the headlights fixed. There are 3 fuses under the black box by the battery...one of them is headlight related. If you turn you headlights on and then turn on brights...does the bright light blue indicator come on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 For your lights try cleaning your fusible links... http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1...4d1ba13cf1d65e7 20 years of hanging out by the battery tends to corrode them up a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 (edited) In addition to what VBRAD511 & Starwolf posted, I would also remove, disassemble and clean up the dash board light switch's internals. See http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1044 on how to do this. Make sure that you ALSO remove and clean ALL of the electrical grounds in the engine house. I would also down load the Starquest shop manual and use Chapter 8 to trouble shoot your electrical light circuit problem. http://www.starquestgarage.com/ It gives you the electrical schematics and the color of the wires which makes it easier to check in order to see where your electrical problem is. The meter on your '88 Starquest dash board is NOT an Amp meter. It is a Volt meter, which indicates voltage available at the ignition switch/dash board, not at the battery. I, personally for good warm fuzzies, would perform a load test on the alternator and battery to determine their condition. Also, after you have cleaned ALL of the engine house ground connections, I would compare the voltages as read at the dash and at the battery; with the engine warmed up, with the parking brake applied and the tranny in drive. This will tell you if there is excessive resistance in the main power feed line from the battery positive pole to the ignition switch. If your idle RPM's drop by 200 at a stop light with the tranny in Drive and your foot on the brake, then that indicates, to me, that your Idle Speed Controller (ISC) is possibly not working properly. See the shop manual and Page 3 of http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1...sc&start=50 for cleaning and trouble shooting the Motor Position Switch (MPS) & ISC. What is the idle RPM and Voltage with the Tranny in neutral and the engine at normal operating temperature? What does your Voltage drop down to at the stop lights, with the trans in Drive and your foot on the brake? You might also consider cleaning and testing all of the sensors and their connectoions on the intake manifold too. http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1097 Cuz, if the Engine Coolant Sensor is FUBAR it can effect your idle at a stop light to, with the engine warmed up. For What It's Worth. KEN BTW - Welcome to Starquestclub.com. Edited July 13, 2009 by Starfighterpilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CForbzy13 Posted July 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2009 Thanks for all your imput. I have checked all the grounds for the headlight problem, but not the switch. All fuses look good but I will check the fuse link by the battery. What are the signs that the switch is bad? As far as the idle problem, the park idle is about 850 -900 and the drive idle is at 750 but drops to 600-650 when there is a draw on the amps. The alternator is new and has been tested and seems to work fine (output under load) Someone mentioned that the ICS may be bad but the choke works fine at cold start and works down as it heats up. Is there a special way to adjust it with the pedal cable? MPS may be the problem but how do I check it out? I have never check the Temp sensor. Is there a good way to check it? I assume it's just a toggle switch but not sure. Boy these cars are fun to try to figure out. Thanks for all your help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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