j5 Posted June 24, 2003 Report Share Posted June 24, 2003 I don't know if this is old news but I found a 160degree racing thermostat that fits. MR.Gasket co. P.N. 4363 Balanced HP thermostat. Enjoy! j5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusky Posted June 24, 2003 Report Share Posted June 24, 2003 Hey what's so special about this one ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j5 Posted June 24, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2003 You know how you had to grind the crap out on the regular 160 thermostat to make em fit? You don't have to on this one. HIGHER flow, Â opens at specifide temp (within 2 degrees) regardless of engine RPM. Self cleaning and faster response time. Only cost $11. You dogs are buying $9 ones and still have to grind em! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j5 Posted June 24, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2003 Oh yeah RONs performance still gots 2 of them in stock so grab em! $11 clams man thats a steal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusky Posted June 24, 2003 Report Share Posted June 24, 2003 Can u pick one up for me if u got time ??? Probly won't be able to get out there anytime soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j5 Posted June 25, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2003 Negative Rusky I just got off of work just now the time is 20:30hrs, didn't have dinner yet. Mapunapuna Rons dood. I'll let you see and touch my thermostat though if you want to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPX Posted June 26, 2003 Report Share Posted June 26, 2003 Sounds great.... I will try to get one from Summit Racing.. great tip Thanx...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dcrasta Posted June 26, 2003 Report Share Posted June 26, 2003 I dont see an advantage. Â Stock ecu is calibrated for 180-190 Degrees, so wheres the help? If anything you will just never warm up so the car will always thing its in warm up mode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j5 Posted June 27, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2003 The 180F-190F degree thermostat works fine on most motors that see normal use. The advantage is better heater effciency in winter,  better  crusie fuel economy and helps boil off oil contaminants, some even feel that it takes away thermal effcieny if they install a lower degree thermostat. Other than those reasons mentioned above there is no reason for having a 180-195 F. degree thermostat. Most competition engines operate at 154-175 degrees F. Most stock engines make the best power at W.O.T. at the same temperature. Remember water boils at 212 degrees F. Your stock thermostat will open at 180-195 F. depending what you installed. Do you want to cool your engine with near boiling water? This racing thermostat also flows at a higher rate so there is less drag thru the engine. Imagine gaining a possible 1-2 hp for $11. If you live where it snows sometimes, don't install a 160 degree thermostat in your car it has much suck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmendeol Posted June 27, 2003 Report Share Posted June 27, 2003 It's only $9 at Summit. -Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indy_85stariones Posted June 27, 2003 Report Share Posted June 27, 2003 From what I've read in service manuals, the stock ECU requires coolant temperature above 172 degrees to function properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dcrasta Posted June 27, 2003 Report Share Posted June 27, 2003 Remember water boils at 212 degrees F. Your stock thermostat will open at 180-195 F. depending what you installed. Do you want to cool your engine with near boiling water? I never had a warm up problem in the summer with the 160, temp shoots up so fast anway, but in the winter car never warmed up properly. Also You right about the water temp boiling at 212 degrees, at sea level but the cooling system is pressurized, and that raises the boiling point of the water. Add coolant (you are using coolant unless your on the track right?) and you raise the boiling temp even more. I just think the more you add variables into the stock ECU's job you ask for problems with A/F metering. Also like you mentioned, too cold a engine leaves contaminants, and too rich a engine gets carbon build up. Oil is formulated to reach a certain temp and too cold can leave sludge and all kinds of deposits. We should be changing our oil regularly anyway, but I noticed my car ran much better with the 180 stat in it. I do agree about drilling the jiggle hole out for a better air bleed. It does help but usually if I open the cooling system up I run the car without a radiator cap for about 1/2 hour to make sure the system is purged (with the heater on dont want any air pockets!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j5 Posted June 27, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2003 For normal driving the stock stuff is the way to go. I don't know if you have ever had done an extended run at w.o.t. run in your car before. We have an open track event once a month,  they stick 4-6 guys togeather depending on their skill level (I'm with the noob class by the way ) and do 7 laps of wheel to wheel racing and even with a 3 row core the temps shoot up to 212+F degrees.  If your cap is not holding 13psi, you'll have a boil off problem Thats why they call it a racing thermostat, not for highway use sticker is stuck all over the package. Besides you get better CRUSIE performance and economy if you stick with the 180-195 thermostat because your STOCK ECU is calibrated for it. Other factors play into cooling also. Bored over engines tend to run hotter than normal,  larger turbos,  enviroment, driving situations, compression ratios, timming and the cars age. Normal driving bad to use racing thermostat. Race driving good to use racing thermostat. I thought this forum was an engine perfomance forum not how to keep you stock car running well forum? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
item Posted June 27, 2003 Report Share Posted June 27, 2003 : You guys are arguing about a THERMOSTAT?!? wt....! If you wanna try it, try it! It's only $9-$11!!! I seriously doubt your engine will explode If you feel the risk is too high and you don't want to try it. Then don't! If $11 is too expensive for you then maybe you should get another hobby! : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mquester Posted June 27, 2003 Report Share Posted June 27, 2003 um, this is an education, not an argument Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j5 Posted June 27, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2003 : You guys are arguing about a THERMOSTAT?!? wt....! If you wanna try it, try it! It's only $9-$11!!! Â I seriously doubt your engine will explode If you feel the risk is too high and you don't want to try it. Then don't! If $11 is too expensive for you then maybe you should get another hobby! Â : Hahahahahah! LOL! You are one sarcastic doood! Its good to ask questions though. Careabial sex is ok peeps. j5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
item Posted June 28, 2003 Report Share Posted June 28, 2003 um, this is an education, not an argument oooo! Look at me! I can read a manual! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j5 Posted June 28, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2003 This is what I have learned from track racing. 1) All stock cars overheat on the 4th lap. 2) Brakes are just suggestions on the 3rd lap, Â Â the brake pedal is there to keep the other two pedals company. 3) B.B.Q. brake lining smells BAD with lotsa smoke will make you puke. 4) The stock springs has to go. 5) I suck at driving. ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mquester Posted June 29, 2003 Report Share Posted June 29, 2003 haha no an argument is when you are right and dont give a * what the other think you just keep saying the same thing and dont listen an education is when you are right and dont give a * what the other thinks you just keep saying INFORMATION (true or made up) and dont listen ;D My wife and I have educations, not arguements : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusky Posted June 30, 2003 Report Share Posted June 30, 2003 This is what I have learned from track racing. 1) All stock cars overheat on the 4th lap. 2) Brakes are just suggestions on the 3rd lap, Â Â the brake pedal is there to keep the other two pedals company. 3) B.B.Q. brake lining smells BAD with lotsa smoke will make you puke. 4) The stock springs has to go. 5) I suck at driving. ;D 1. Whatevers, brah. Your car is not stock. 2. Time to upgrade them badboys. 3. Time to upgrade them badboys. 4. Get some GC's. 5. Well, can't help you there my friend. Dats all you. Hehe, I gotta come out and see you drive one time Jeff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dcrasta Posted June 30, 2003 Report Share Posted June 30, 2003 Hey if it works for you roll wit it. Dont cry when you break just fix it. :'( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted June 30, 2003 Report Share Posted June 30, 2003 even with a 3 row core the temps shoot up to 212+F degrees. If your cap is not holding 13psi, you'll have a boil off problem Sound like you need new cap then.. I thought for a long time 160 was the way to go Lots of hill climbing 4 to 5 mile stretches but I got the Radiator re-cored then no problem.. When you get bigger every thing you need to upgrade your cooling system just the thermostat alone won't do it. What year is your car ? (83,88,89 have it) The others don't There are other things that can help . I bought 160 either a Stant or Robert Shaw from Carparts.com it keeps it cool but it always stays in open loop and idles rough... Too much flow can be a bad thing also the water coolant has to have time to remove the heat and there is an actual process "Nucleate Cooling" but if the water is moving to slow you can get hot spots too Radiator temps can reach 300 degrees depending on how pressurized your system is and if you have the correct ratio of coolant to H2o. The 160 is not something new it's been around awhile but thanks for the heads up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j5 Posted July 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 Hey if it works for you roll wit it. Â Dont cry when you break just fix it. Â :'( I know the feeling man I'm on my 3rd motor on my 4th conquest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j5 Posted July 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 Sound like you need new cap then.. I thought for a long time 160 was the way to go Lots of hill climbing 4 to 5 mile stretches but I got the Radiator re-cored then no problem.. When you get bigger every thing you need to upgrade your cooling system just the thermostat alone won't do it. What year is your car ? (83,88,89 have it) The others don't There are other things that can help . I bought 160 either a Stant or Robert Shaw from Carparts.com it keeps it cool but it always stays in open loop and idles rough... Too much flow can be a bad thing also the water coolant has to have time to remove the heat and there is an actual process "Nucleate Cooling" but if the water is moving to slow you can get hot spots too Radiator temps can reach 300 degrees depending on how pressurized your system is and if you have the correct ratio of coolant to H2o. The 160 is not something new it's been around awhile but thanks for the heads up. I never keep the raidiator cap for more than a year. I have an 88 built with .040 over, je pistons 8:1, arp bottom end bolts on mains, cranks, Â and head, Marnal head, Â shnieder cam 293 I think , dodge caravan solid lifters, dodge caravan valves intake/exhaust, heavy duty valve springs, I never had problems with these valves. bal. shafts removed, lightend flywheel, speed pro piston rings, sds 4f with Aussi intake, 630cc Delphi multech injectors@ 39psi of fuel pressure, bosch fuel pump, rebuilt 3 row core raidator. Super 16G turbo with a ported bell, Â 2.5" down pipe and all the way to the back with no cats. Greddy electronc boost controller set to 16psi on pump gas. The set up is conservitve compared to Rusky's car. I still retain alot of stock parts in the engine bay. Like the throttal cable, fuel filter and fuel lines I'm shootin for 250hp to the wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusky Posted July 1, 2003 Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 Whatevers J5, My car is not even built yet. Not till the end of the year. ;D:P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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