Zdawg Posted May 29, 2002 Report Share Posted May 29, 2002 I'm just a poor college student, and couldn't afford a fancy boost controller so i went to my local hardware store, and bought a garden hose vave for 3 bucks a fitting to a vac line and a T for under 5 bucks works grrreat, though takes about 20 min to get used to the adjustment, and for the cost of a meal deal at Micky D's!! Z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue1989TSi Posted June 1, 2002 Report Share Posted June 1, 2002 How's it working out for you so far? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zdawg Posted June 1, 2002 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2002 excellent no problems whatsoever!! I had been thinking about for awhile now and it was time for a boost controller and it works great. let me know if any of u guys try it out thanx Z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff Posted June 8, 2002 Report Share Posted June 8, 2002 how did you build it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zdawg Posted June 8, 2002 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2002 the only mildly challanging part is gettin the valve to hook up the a vac line. U can use pretty much any valve, the one i used, i just screwed a nipple piece on to it and attached the vac line to that. Just ne very cery careful when opening it for the first time. it doesn't take much Z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboTSI Posted June 22, 2002 Report Share Posted June 22, 2002 Hey I made one before to and mine was way out of control with boost (I actually blew my head gasket apart cause of the boost) so if you could explain how u made yours exactly I would try it also.. thx man turboTSI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zdawg Posted June 22, 2002 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2002 What part of my explination do u understand, u take a vavle, hook it up to the vac line, just crack it upen a tiny tiny bit it will take some time to get used to the adjustment or it. anyother question just ask Z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboTSI Posted June 22, 2002 Report Share Posted June 22, 2002 ok I have the two nipple halves, but what do I put inside of them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zdawg Posted June 23, 2002 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2002 u lost me, nipple halves? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboTSI Posted June 23, 2002 Report Share Posted June 23, 2002 OK I must have had a different set up then u cause I use to male and female fittings with a sping and ball bearing inside to adjust my pressure, but on your I guess I cant understand the "valve" what kinda valve I just dont get it sorry... and then what do u do with the "T" a picture would be awsome... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zdawg Posted June 23, 2002 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2002 no pic ihave no digital camera, the T is for cuttin into the vac line. My valve is just a rotating ball with a hole in it u can only turn it 90 degrees. Its a tube with a ball with awhole in the center, and u just hook it up to the vac line, crack it open just a lil though. i'll try to get a pic for u guys!! Z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonO Posted January 6, 2003 Report Share Posted January 6, 2003 Let Me start by saying thatyour info is appreciated,so please dont be offended by what I am about to say...........This has to be the best (funniest) posting on this site. If you guys get it together maybe you could do an Abbott and costello, Mechanic act!!!! It made me Laugh!! Anyway I understand the Valve you are talking about. I also understand the Valve the other Guy is Talking about (it is available from Grainger supply, you modify it and You Get: Boost control). I wish to offer a small Modification to your proposal. You Might even save some change with it. Instead of the larger "Valve" tat this started with, Why not just use a Valve from a Fish tank Pump deal. Valve would be smaller,easier to place and shouldnt need "Adapters" to make the Vacuum tubing connect to it.......Just a thought Don O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted March 3, 2003 Report Share Posted March 3, 2003 the fishtank valves are way too old school. they give you boost spikes and are too sensative and unpridictable to control. spend $40 and get a real one. there is also a site that shows how to make one of these ball & spring design vavles but i would say its not worth the time to make one either. these work better than all the electronic crap in my opinion. http://www.boostvalve.com or http://www.boostcontroller.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift1313 Posted March 3, 2003 Report Share Posted March 3, 2003 well i will blow you all away with my dual stage electronic boost controller for under $10 :-D im not sure i would use a garden hose valve, how is it possible for it to dial in boost, its just restricting air and i cant understand how it would ever level out. the ball and spring one is very easy to build. go to your local plumbing store and pick up a few items. a brass 3 way block. two nipples(the size of your vac lines), a bolt and nut, same thread pitch as the block obviously and lastly a stainless steel ball bearing and spring. so you have three ports, the two nipples are 90 degrees from eachother and the bolt and nut is opposite one of the nipples. inside you have in this order, from nipple to bolt, ball bearing and spring. when the pressure comes in the one end it hits the ball, the bolt against the spring is what controls your boost. tigher = more boost, looser = less boost. the nut is so you can keep your setting. once the pressure overcomes the force of the spring it will exit to the other nipple and to your wastegate actuator. very important...on the other side of the exit nipple, on the block where there is no exit you need to drill a small hole so you dont have a boost spike problem, it will help smooth out the pressure. now the dual stage boost controller. the first stage is going to be whatever your wastegate is set at and the second stage is whatever your mbc is set at. to differentiate between you use one of the solenoids that controls your vac lines on the drivers side fender. these are basically on and off when voltage is applied. so you have your vac line going in the end and the nipple thats always open you route to your waste gate, those of you that have dual stage waste gates this will be easier. the other nipple you have a vac line going to your mbc and then to another nipple on the wastegate actuator, if you only have a single port wastegate you will have to rig something up , probobly just a T that both lines go into before the actuator. because the solenoid wont allow the pressure to flow back. the switch for this is whatever you want. depending on how your switch is rated you may want to wire in a relay. you can buy those high, low switches from speed shops that velcro around your steering wheel. all these parts, depending on what you have laying around, wont cost too much. if anything is confusing ill try to clear it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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