1Gen Alternator

[GCNTSi]

I happen to have a 1Gen reman alternator on the shelf and I wonder if I can make it work.

 

Everything seems to line up but the main mounting position is too wide on the 1G, I think I can find a spacer that will work.

 

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l24/gcntsi/Quest%20Build/DSCN0401.jpg

 

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l24/gcntsi/Quest%20Build/DSCN0402.jpg

 

Anyone else used a 1G Alt? I searched but didn't find any talk of it.

 

-GCNTSi.

[jolyrgr]

No reason why it wouldn't work as long as you get the pulley in line. What is the amperage rating of the 1G?

 

 

 

JR

[GCNTSi]

It is also a 75amp.

 

But I had mine tested and it was tested as good. So I need to track down what is causing my voltage to vary so much. I thought the regulator failed because when it was cold the volts would be just over 14, after warm it would drop to about 11.

 

I'm gonna try to clean all the fusible link connections, and grounds. And see if tat helps.

 

-GCNTSi.

[mikec]

Mitsu voltage regulators are quite temperature sensitive so it's normal to see 14 volts right after cold-engine startup and then see it drop down to 13.something after a bit of driving. Plus the dash voltage guage has a lot of wires, connectors, and a fusible link between it and the battery... lots of places for old wires/connections to cause small voltage drops. The dash gauge might say 11 volts yet the alternator can still be pushing 13 volts right at the battery posts.

 

Normally the IGN fusible link and its connections are the biggest source of voltage loss on the dash voltmeter. The wire from the IGN link output to the ignition key input terminal is the second source of voltage loss. You can double-up that wire yourself to make a BIG difference in the dash voltmeter characteristics - making it read more accurately and lessening the "dancing" it does in sync with the turn signals.

 

You can demonstrate the "lousy" wiring with the turn signals. Almost all StarQuesters are familiar with the "dancing" voltmeter - having the displayed voltage drop in sync with the turn signals. Try this instead: shut off the turn signals and instead hit the Hazard lights. Notice the voltmeter hardly moves - even though twice as many turn signal bulbs are now blinking ON/OFF? That's because the turn signals are powered by that IGN link and crappy link-to-ignition-switch wire; the hazards are powered from a different circuit. That same IGN circuit feeds your dash voltmeter... so anything that pulls a lot of current (like the turn signals or the fan relays or the interior fan motor) will cause voltage drops in that crappy IGN link/wiring leading to a low reading dash voltmeter. The alternator output is probably okay though - use a real voltmeter right at the battery posts and you'll probably see normal charging voltage well above what the dash guage shows.

 

If that DSM alternator is a Mitsu 75amp unit (as it appears in the photos) I'll bet its guts are identical to the stock StarQuest unit. You can probably just swap the aft case piece and make it a bolt-in part. Oh, and swap the pully of course. Basic steps:

1: loosen the long bolts holding the front of the case to the rear of the case. Don't take them all the way out just yet.

 

2: Use a couple flat-blade screwdrivers to pry between the FRONT case (pully end) and the green or dark metal center band. Sometimes tapping on the long bolts helps push the case halves apart - that's why I suggested leaving them in a couple turns.

 

3: Once the rear case+center part are free, remove those long bolts.

 

4: Pull the rear case + center section (the field coil) out. Leave the armature and pully on the front case.

 

5: Remove the 10mm or 12mm nuts on the output stud of the alternator (on the back case). There should be two: one holding the plastic insulator to the case and the 2nd holding the car's wiring harness wire. That may not be there on your alternators. Get the nuts & insulator piece off.

 

5: Look inside the field coil to the rear case... you'll see 3 phillips screws. Remove them. They might be pretty tight.

 

6: At this point the field coil, regulator, diode/rectifier stacks (those metal bars with the heat sink ribs), etc. should lift out of the rear case as one big part. Pay attention to how the brown plastic pieces fit - they'll fall out. Take a digital pic first.

 

7: swap the rear case halves.

 

8: Before installing the guts into the case rears, look at the section with the brushes. You'll see a small hole that goes through it - if you push the brushes in you can slip a stiff wire (unbent paper clip) through these holes to hold the brushes all the way in. Put a wire all the way through, leaving about an inch sticking out the end that goes into the rear case half. It has a matching hole too just for this purpose... The other end of the paper clip end should just barely poke past the plastic brush holder/case. Then re-install the electrical guts and those 3 screws. Install the rear insulator & nuts.

 

9: slip the armature assembly into the rear case. Once it's all the way in (make sure you line up the front and rear case halves) pull your paperclip wire out. Now spin the pully, listening for anything rubbing. Should be quiet. If so, install the long bolts and swap pullies. Getting the pully nut off can be tough. An impact gun makes it trivially easy. Without one though... use a V-belt or serpentine belt to hold the pully. I wrap one all the way around and then use vise grips to squeeze the v-belt itself tight. Put a wrench on the nut and try separating the pieces. If it won't budge (likely) or the belt still slips on the pully... hit your wrench with a hammer - lightly, don't bust your wrench! This "shock" is like an impact wrench and may pop the nut free.

 

mike c.