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Got Chads header?


Ryan_V
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Let me just explain the circumstances surrounding this particular instance.

 

JSwan asked me to drive to Kansas City, and help him get this car put back together. All it had was a short block bolted in the bay.....

 

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/5578/picture028aq6.jpg

 

I got there at 11 am Saturday, and went to work. At roughly 8 or so, we saw the issue, that's when Ryan V posted the post for me. At the time, I was concerned about the turbo studs. I wasn't certain to loctite, or to nut on the bottom, or what. But then, we noticed that the turbo was sitting high. And it took off from there.

 

I worked from 11am to 11 pm Saturday, then from 9 am to 7 pm Sunday, putting all manner of various vendor's parts on this car.

 

I finally wound up with this.....

 

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/6470/picture064zz8.jpg

 

Here's my point. I drove a lot of miles, and put in a lot of time, and was trying to make it work, and was trying to see what to do. This car is a very clean example, and I don't want to damage it "trying" things. So, I asked for some advice, and one problem after the other came out. If it makes you feel any better, I DO like the welding job done, and I did check the flange for flatness, as I recall that one, and was pleased to see that it was all good. And also, I found issues with other vendors' parts too........

 

Tim

 

P.S. My goal was a victory drive. Few minor glitches prevented it, but I did hear it run, and see it build oil pressure. I'm still OK with that.

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Glad you got the car running, that is really all that matters... For that you obviously did a good job, putting a car back together from a pile of parts is never an easy task, and there are always supprises.
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Ok everyone, I finally got time to chime in here on this topic and clarify as needed. I am the owner of the car and the log style header in question.

 

First, I would like to take my hat off to Ulrichwolf for making the lengthy trip here to KC so we could make a valiant effort to get this car of mine running. It has sat in my garage for over 3 years and I have slowly accumulated various parts to assist in improving the performance and appearance of one of my prize possessions. Tim knows the history of this car better than anyone but myself and was committed with me to get it back on the road so I could finally drive it again and also attend the next Starquest meet.

 

Second, I want to thank Matt Tainter, T-Man, and Ryan V for there quick responses on Saturday night while Tim and I were working diligently to get everything bolted back together and we hit this snag with the header clearance. With all of Tim's help and the concern and assistance from these guys, this absolutely confirms to me that this is one very strong car club where guys are really trying to help each other out in the grace of friendship and the common thread of one of the most unique cars in recent history. I thank all of you for this.

 

If anyone recalls the group header purchase, we had the option to choose from the equal length header, which required movement of stock components and the log style manifold, which was to my understanding, a direct replacement for the somewhat restrictive and typically cracked stock exhaust manifold. I had already dropped about $400.00 in my down pipe, B-pipe, and CAT back exhaust so after careful thought, I decided to go with the log style header after Chad promptly answered a series of questions I asked him in a PM or two before I committed to the purchase.

 

SQF, if you read the header GP post thread more clearly, the log style manifold was supose to be a direct bolt on. In fact, this is a direct quote from questions and answers I put into a PM to Chad before the purchase just to be clear:

 

Me-

"Fifth, Is my understanding correct when I say the log manifold will be a direct bolt on and all mechanics around the manifold will bolt up to their stock locations, including the heat shield and other misc?

 

Chad-

5: I make this log manifold with a stocker as my template. I can say it will bolt on with little or no effort. I may end up making it off 1-2 degrees, I am human afterall :wink: It may move the turbo ~1/2 further from teh head to get the runners enough clearnce so the turbo position will varry slightly. this is nothign that can't be worked arround wtih a little tweak here/there, an you probalby wont 'notice it when you put it back together unless you have some custom stuff that has no room for movement.

 

I guess what I'm saying is that I make it to fit the stock hardware, but there will be some tolerances to work with. If you got it and it just plain ole' didn't fit or suit you, I'd buy it back (if it were mounted but still unused ofcourse)."

 

I have no beef with Chad's product whatsoever, except that it just didn't fit as I expected. The welding was very good and I was extremely excited to bolt it onto my new ported and polished Marnel head (thanks Rich). However, on Saturday night at decision time, I was faced with two very serious problems on hood clearance and the downpipe fitment with my B-pipe. If I had one problem or the other I could probably live, but both together was enough for me to call the install off, since I still had a good stress relieved and uncracked stock manifold to put back on and time was ticking to get the car running again (I'm moving by the way and don't want to tow this car to the new house!). I was very disappointed on Saturday and still a little bumed about it now.

 

Chad, I will tip my hat off to you as well for living up to your word that you would buy this header back if it didn't work for me. I will likely have you do this, although I am still without an exhaust header, which I want so badly. I have a realistic goal of reaching about 300-320 hp on this car some day and I was building for the future with this header install while hoping to save more $ and finish off later with a decent turbo upgrade. I may now switch my thinking from header back to turbo upgrade and use my refund towards my turbo budget.. I don't know yet.

 

Bottom line here is this. I don't want anyone in this thread to take any heat for standing up for me. Thanks again Tim for everything this weekend, you are a true friend. Similiarly, I don't want anyone to take any heat if they are honering their word to refund the purchase price if the part doesn't perform as expected. Both of these efforts are what makes this a strong club.

 

Thanks to everyone,

 

JSwan in KC

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I've only met a very few members. I can agree, that it's a very good community most of the time as with all clubs. Is there any way you would accept another unit, that would fit, provided Chad would do that. That way technically you will have gotten the original "direct replacement" unit you ordered. I'm not trying to start anything or swell any attitudes, just throwing out ideas.
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