Coke Posted May 31, 2004 Report Share Posted May 31, 2004 Well I'd just like to know which lines to remove......what things to remove, what i need to keep. I want Climate control functional.....pretty much a typical vacuum line removal. CoKe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexer Posted May 31, 2004 Report Share Posted May 31, 2004 Hey, I would like to keep the purge control valve, but at the same time would like to eliminate the egr and the two solinoid controls right there as well. Is there a way to hook up the Purge control valve and leave these things out of the loop. Idealy, I would just like to have the VAC advance hooked up and the run around vac hose. Is there anything else i need to keep hooked up like the Thermo Sensor or other things?!?!?!?!?!?! can someone else post exactly what they ahve hooked up and what they don't?? And how they ran the lines???? J. R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted May 31, 2004 Report Share Posted May 31, 2004 I'm not sure where to hook up the purge control valve, because I took that out aswell... I'll say what I do have. Line from vacuum advance to first vac port(of row of 3)(closest to radiator) Line from FPR to TB's neck Line from third port(row of 3)(closest to firewall) to my boost gauge Then there's the three lines that go from the WG actuator, to the OVCP, and to the BCS(boost control solenoid) The rest of the ports are capped. All of them.. I took out the EGR, and all related solenoids.. Charcoal canister, purge valve etc... Vac pump(by drivers headlight).. I used artinist's EGR blockoff plate WITH the stock EGR gasket.. Vacuum storage canister(by P.S reservoir) gone... Solenoids by ABS, gone... Let me also say that I don't have A/C, or a heater.. There's NOTHING under the dash.. The vac pump is for the cruise control, and the vacuum storage container is for the heaters vents... Just some info , this is the FAQ after all.. ;D That's pretty much all I did, as far as vac lines go.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexer Posted June 1, 2004 Report Share Posted June 1, 2004 Sounds good. That is basically what I would like to do is elminate mostly all of that. Question. I would guess you elminated the Thermo valve there as well. What does that do anyway, and is that ok? Next is.......if I wanted to hook up the purge control valve with the two long vacum lines that run infront of the motor, where could I hook them up so that that would still work? J. R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 12, 2004 Report Share Posted June 12, 2004 ok, if i remove the charcoal canister...what do i do with the vent lines going to it? Just let them hang out down there....unplugged? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted June 13, 2004 Report Share Posted June 13, 2004 There will only be one open line, it's from the tank.. You can trace it back to the tank and remove the metal line from under the car... Leave a little bit of line near the tank, and put a breather on it.. Just don't flick cigarrettes under your ride, and pimp smack anyone who does ;D... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 13, 2004 Report Share Posted June 13, 2004 Thank you! You've answered all the questions i can think of right off hand. I'm sure i will have more. I removed most of my lines last nite....and on my way home from Psychquests' house....i noticed increased throttle response.....and the car did seem to pull a lil harder. But....my vacuum reads a lil lower then it used to. Is that normal? CoKe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted June 13, 2004 Report Share Posted June 13, 2004 Hmmn, I think my vacuum dropped a little bit aswell.. Maybe 1-2in/hg... Ahh, I can't remember right now... If it bugs you, you can check the vacuum with a real gauge hooked to the vac ports, I think I heard someone say that the port below the row of three is the one to test.. I think it's supposed to pull 16-18in/hg at idle.. (I think) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kougar Posted June 19, 2004 Report Share Posted June 19, 2004 My DSM buddy seems to think the emissions stuff is useless, so he's gonna toss it. I'm starting to think the same. Anyhoo the reason of this post is this: Wouldn't eliminating the charcoal canister be a good idea if you're funning a BPV (like the 1g)? Toss the ugly canister, get rid of some line, and use the open port on the intake to connect to the "BOV"! Sounds good to me, but then again i usually miss pretty important concepts . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marksweet Posted June 19, 2004 Report Share Posted June 19, 2004 JUSTPAUS you are correct on the amount of vacuum the engine should pull. If anyone reads lower with a 274 or less cam you should check for a loose vac. line or cracke line. I believe Welderwhiz is still selling his nice silicone vacuumhose. Check the group buy forum. might have to search a bit. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 19, 2004 Report Share Posted June 19, 2004 Mine pulls 20 - 20 1/2 in hg @ idle. is that good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marksweet Posted June 19, 2004 Report Share Posted June 19, 2004 Excellent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBoost Posted July 9, 2004 Report Share Posted July 9, 2004 does anyone have some working pics to go with this FAQ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlbait Posted July 13, 2004 Report Share Posted July 13, 2004 yes if someone could post pics that would be great would like to thin down all of those lines. sounds great but dont want to go at it w/o pics thanks ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted August 22, 2004 Report Share Posted August 22, 2004 http://2.6liter.com/userfiles/StarQuester/IMG_0028resized.JPG http://2.6liter.com/userfiles/StarQuester/IMG_0032resized.JPG I can take better pics, if neccessary... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damien4ack Posted December 5, 2004 Report Share Posted December 5, 2004 thank u everyone I just read this entire list and think it's all awsome! My question is, I'm haveing an issue with my throttle, to push it above 5g seems to choke the engine out,it also fluxes idle between 1g and a half in a constant rythem, Do You Think the old stock vac lines could be my problem? Also the small canister next to the air box seems to have been spiting oil alover my air filter, what problems will this cause? I'm just hitting my head trying to figure this engine out :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marksweet Posted December 5, 2004 Report Share Posted December 5, 2004 Soundslke you have a car that has never had the injectors cleaned or the ISC/TPS reset, basic maintainence. The oil seperator may be plugge. Tat's the small canister attached to the air box. follow the line down to the ol pan and pull it off there and see what flow out if anything. I don'd recll the seperator being open to the filter. you should pull the intake "accordian" hose and check for oil in there also. mark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damien4ack Posted December 5, 2004 Report Share Posted December 5, 2004 Thanks i'll give it a try, but what do you mean by isc/tps(not to sound dunb) - I've only had the car for around 8months, and have found shes been abused for most her life.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted December 5, 2004 Report Share Posted December 5, 2004 Error codes ...I leave the 12v LED hooked up all the time... TPS/ISC reset In stock form, you're not gonna be able to pull at all beyond 5.5Krpms, it's just how the stock head is.. Valves tend to float above 5500... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damien4ack Posted December 5, 2004 Report Share Posted December 5, 2004 thanks, Well at least I know now I'm not nuts, for now she's as stock as an 83 can be. Thinking about messing with the vac lines though, and I'll half to mod the air box. When I got her the fuel had been sugared I though I did a good job flushing it out but now am starting to think I'll have to replace the f. filter as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Does someone have a schematic of OEM before and proven after vacuum line elimination that they can post to this thread? It seems the original poster edited his post and the info went pooof! Thanks, Dan Edit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwolf Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Does someone have a schematic of OEM before and proven after vacuum line elimination that they can post to this thread? It seems the original poster edited his post and the info went pooof! Thanks, Dan Can i second this? heh im curious! :S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Star_V8_Quest Posted April 6, 2008 Report Share Posted April 6, 2008 is this what you need? vac lines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redneck55 Posted April 15, 2008 Report Share Posted April 15, 2008 Can Someone get some new pix of all this up for me cuz im gettin ready to stab my new motor in my car and get my starquest goin again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted April 15, 2008 Report Share Posted April 15, 2008 There won't be a one size fits all solution to this fellas.. In my case, I eliminated EVERYTHING that was associated with vacuum if it wasn't there for the operation of the engine(I.E. vac advance, FPR, WG actuator)... Most people won't run a setup like mine with no heater/AC/blower motor.. I got around emissions testing and stripped my car. I can assure you, i'm in the minority here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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