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Separate Battery set up for Amps?


MANGO
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I've seen this before in magazines where there's a separate battery feeding a row of amps that power the subs.  

 

How is this done?  I'm contemplating a twin sub set up powered by two amps and possibly build the system further from there.  We've had enough talks on here about how old and minimal in diameter our wiring harnesses are that when we do have high powered amps cranking, the rest of the electrical system and components in our cars end up dimming or even close to stalling the car because the stock wiring harness isn't beefy enough to provide juice on an even par to everything electrical in the vehicle.

 

So how is this stand alone extra battery set up done?  Obviously there's some type of switched power connection between the amps that's connected to the head unit and then the head unit is switched power with the car's ignition system but do the power and ground wires for the amps go to the stand alone battery just like that?

 

Thanks

MANGO

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There is a piece of equipment called an isolator.  It allows the batteries to both be charged by the same alternator, but keeps them seperate as far as load is concerned.

 

The ground is still a common ground.  You will need to ground the extra battery to the body/frame in a short manner.  And then just ground your amps like normal.

 

Heres a quick search link I found:

http://www.hellroaring.com/audio.htm

 

mm

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Mango, there are 5 basic ways to accomplish what you want.

 

1. Parallel batteries together + to + and negatives to ground.  Bad idea all together.

 

2. Use a battery isolater and the batteries will not load against each other but the alternator sees them as being parallel and is a huge stress on it.  And why does it have to have such a huge heatsink???  Must be 100% efficeint???

 

3. Solenoid switch, think of this one as a big relay that only parallels the batteries when the ignition is on, not when in the key is in the accessory position. Still puts a huge stress on the alternator.

 

4. A battery regulator.  Think of this one as a battery voltage triggered smart relay.  When the front battery is charged to a voltage of 13.2 or higher the batteries both get charged.  When voltage is lower than 13.1 the switch opens and the alternator only charges the front battery.  Repeat.  By far the safest way of adding a second battery to a car.  Disconnects when the ignition is off so you can play your stereo all day long and still start your car to leave.

 

5. A dual output alternator.

 

That's it in a nutshell.

 

E-Mann

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Thanks guys!!!  Appreciate the info.

Emann, thanks for the detailed descrip. on what my options are.  What you've outlined is truly helpful with regards to pros and cons.

 

Much thanks,

MANGO

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Just to clarify something, a battery regulator is not the same as a battery isolator.

 

A battery regulator is a device with an actual circuit board for the logic and power distribution.  They do not get hot when used, even though every one I've ever seen comes in some sort of a heatsink.

 

A battery isolator is noting more on the inside than some really big diodes, encased in some type of resin, then attached to three studs and one really big heatsink.  Totally a passive type system that generates alot of heat.

 

And to correct myself, the dual output alternator is probablly the best option if you have the time and money to find the right one and make brakets for it.  With in a resonable budget, the best and safest way without harming the car is the battery regulator.

 

E-Mann

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Sorry for terminology confusion.  Also do a search on "battery regulator / isolator".  This will give more information and possible way's of doing what you want.  Still look at upgrading the electrical system.

 

good luck,

 

gary

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