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\\\\antitheft FUEL PUMP CUT RELAY////


SFBMX88
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http://community.webshots.com/photo/163321...163321898vMUmGS

check out that link(its my crude wiring diagram)

if you can understand wiring diagrams, it should make sense

the normally open relay controls itself

if current runs through it, the relay stays on

once current flow stops, the relay automatically opens the fuel pump circuit disabling the fuel pump

the remote mounted switch bypasses the relay until u switch it off

the car will remain running until it is shut off, opening the relay

once this happens, the car cannot be started until the remote switch is set

this kinda passive anti theft should work on almost any car, turbo timer or not

 

i will be installing this in my starion sometime next week

oh yea, make sure the remote switch is hidden

just post if u have a question

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i see it this way:

if a theif was trying to steal your car, they wouldnt waste time trying to diagnose a no start

never thought about hooking up to the starter circuit though

suppose one advantage would be the relay would be hidden somewhere in the back of the car for the fuel pump

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I was thinking about hooking up something simple to disable the starter. I figured that would be pretty easy. I do like your fuel pump circuit idea, I may look into a little more before I install a new pump.

 

Come to think of it, I sort of remember Mikec mentioning something about an ECU signal or something that shuts off the fuel pump if the car is in an accident. I wonder if there is a way to utilize that to achieve the same result?

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That wouldn't work as an anti-theft unfortunately.  The ECU cuts off the ECI relay (and thus the fuel pump) if it looses ignition pulses from an engine stall.  The START position of the ignition key bypasses this (it has a direct feed to the ECI relay) and the ECU will eventually quit looking for ignition pulses if the key is held in START for more than 15 seconds anyway - this is the "limp home" mode for ignition pulses basically.  So a thief, if he rips the lock cylinder out, can turn to START and would eventually get the ECU to start the engine.  A relay cutting off power to the pump directly is a much better solution.

 

mike c.

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I'd say the relay for the pump would be a good idea, as well as the "switch" for the starter itself... But when it comes down to it, if the theif is any good...none of this will matter...Some people around me actually pull the car onto a stolen flatbed if they can't start it by cracking the column.... This is a multi-billion dollar industry, they always have ways to get the prize...

 

That just goes for the big boys who will most likely pass up on a SQ, for any high-dollar auto..Porsche, Rolls royce stuff like that...

 

I would like to cut off power to the whole car, like if you were to put the key in and turn it all the way to START, there'd be no power anywhere..Not just at the pump, no gauges, no nothing....

 

 

John

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One idea I had long ago (too lazy to implement it) was to use a magnetic reed switch (like those two-part burglar alarm sensors for windows/doors) as a safety device.  The switch portion would be hidden behind the carpet or kick panel someplace; someplace easy to reach from the driver's seat but not visible from outside the car.  The magnet portion would have a bit of velcro or something on it to hold it.  The switch would then trigger a timer and relay circuit - when the magnet was removed the timer would work for half a minute to a minute and then the relay would cut out, disabling the car.  

 

With such a switch, even a thief with a few minutes to hunt around for the "hidden switch" would stand little chance of finding it - there's no button or lever sticking out to see/feel around for.  And how many thieves carry a magnet with them?  The timer would kick in for personal safety in the event of a carjacking - all you have to do is remove the magnet (even just kicking it free and leaving it in the car as you get dragged out) and the car will run for a little bit - enough for the gun-packing thief to drive a block or two and then get stranded.  You get a chance to get out of his range.

 

If you use a fairly beefy relay, a pretty effective wire to disable would be the large diameter white+black wire feeding the ignition switch.  This is the +12volt feed to the starter motor and the bulk of the car.  Cutting this wire is just like pulling the IGN fusible link - EVERYTHING powered by the ignition key dies.  Starter, ECI relay (start override portion), etc.  A car-jacked car would just die right in the street (maybe not the best idea...) and an un-started car won't start no matter what the theif does to the steering column.  A normally parked car though would still have a fully functioning factory alarm.

 

mike c.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

SO I INSTALLED THIS SETUP TODAY

RAN INTO ABIT OF A PROBLEM THOUGH

ONE WIRE WASNT CONNECTED RIGHT SO IT DIDNT OPERATE PROPERLY BUT THAT WAS AN EASY FIX

 

IT WORKS GREAT TOO, KEEPING THE CAR RUNNING UNTIL THE TURBO TIMER SHUTS IT OFF

WONT START UP AFTER THAT UNLESS THE SWITCH IS RESET

 

ID LIKE TO SHOW PICTURES BUT ITS A SECRET

HAH

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i ended up using 2 30 0amp bosch relays(they were free) with no problems so far

current flowing through both

1 being normally OPEN

and the other normally CLOSED

i used the closed one because i plan to incorporate a remote shut off using a key fob

http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/elec/ck1617.htm

if i cant find anything better, i will use that

you can find all the needed parts at radio shack

i just happened to have alot of the parts at hand so it was all put together for less than 7 bucks

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