Jonathan Posted March 3, 2004 Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 I installed my throttle cable today on my Magna and the ford TB has a very soft spring! With just a little effort the gas is to the floor. I kind of liked the factory firmness but I guess I will get used to it. Anyone else encounter this? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted March 3, 2004 Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 Asuming you have the ford 4.6L TB, you can add a turn to the spring, that will make anoticable difference. I did that to mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted March 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 oh, didnt know you could do that. I will try that! Thanks. I did get the 4.6l TB, its also the 70mm. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Questsi Posted March 3, 2004 Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 Jonathan...could you take a picture of it installed. Maybe a close up of where the throttle linkage attaches to the TB. I want to see how you guys are attaching it because it seems like the tab that slides into the linake is too big. I bought a BBK 70MM for mine. I want to have everything lined up before I start because I know that once the intake comes off, my car will be immobile for a WHILE :-[ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted March 3, 2004 Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 Ivan, are you talking aobut that little cylinder/ball at the end of the cable? I've had to drill out the TB recess for that on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Questsi Posted March 3, 2004 Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 Ivan, are you talking aobut that little cylinder/ball at the end of the cable? Â I've had to drill out the TB recess for that on mine. Â Yes, the end that connects to the tb. The knob on the end of the stock throllte cable it too fat. It does not fit inside the hole on the mustang t body. So you are saying that I can drill the whole bigger??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted March 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 That is what I did as well so that it will move freely. I will take a picture and post it later. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted March 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 Here are my pictures. http://streetchallenge.com/uploadpix/up/IMG_2162%20small.jpg http://streetchallenge.com/uploadpix/up/IMG_2163%20small.jpg http://streetchallenge.com/uploadpix/up/IMG_2164%20small.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Questsi Posted March 3, 2004 Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 So you did the same thing John?? You just drilled the hole bigger. I want to make sure so that I don't do a hack job on mine. I paid 2 bills for the brand new tbody and I don't want to fudge it up. It looks good though, thanks for posting the pictures. On another note, what have people done about the FP regulator being so close to the tbody. Test fitting mine, I see that the tbody hits the regulator at about half throttle. There is almost no clearance...I was thinking of turning the reagulator to face the oppoite way..It seems to fit that way. Thanks...Ivan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted March 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 Yeah I just drilled it out some. As far as the regulator. I am getting some bent hose to allow it to fit. but turning it dosent sound bad at all. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel Posted March 3, 2004 Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 I know a fast way to fix that regulator clearance problem I run a ford 4.6 TB as well. Take TB off, rotate 180 degrees. Reattach... Send check or MO to... Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Questsi Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 HAHA..I would do that but Chad welds the cable bracket on the fuel rail side. i could turn it and move the bracket, but what fun would that be?? I know a fast way to fix that regulator clearance problem I run a ford 4.6 TB as well. Take TB off, rotate 180 degrees. Reattach... Send check or MO to... Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 There's already a hole on the other side for the bracket you can use. Seems odd that the manifold would be made so it was harder to install then easier. ...BAM there it is: http://www.tristarion.com/gallery/albums/userpics/DCAM0003.JPG Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 That's pretty slick Joel....Thumbs up ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn_Silva Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 Thats how I designed the Magna I modded for Scotty. It just gets too cluttered with cable/reg/tb/thermostat housing all on the inside of the intake. The other plus is that the pedal firmness is increased pulling the cam from the top, the leverage of the now weighted butterfly allows for far easier and more progressive throttle response. An easy bracket fab allows for a much closer pull as well as a smooth angle. The factory ford 4.6 t/b's are somewhat fragile on shaft materials, the better the approach the more reliable the setup. Absorb what you wish... Take care Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_R Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 is anybody using a 65mm throttle body? mine has 2 ball ends on it and will not accept the stock cable. anyone know what cable will work with that? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 i had the same problem with mine. Mike K suggested a Ford truck cable, one from say a mid 90's w/the 5.0 L v8. I ended up using the brackets off the quest t-body and welding it to the mustang butterfly. It dosen't look as nice a Joels but thats because of where the dumb a** at EIP mounted the bracket for the throttle cable. Once again another one of there screw ups I neet to fix. Sorry for the rambling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 where do you guys get the throttle body flanges for the 4.6 mustang throttlebodies? I need one. I also need a universal thermostat housing for this MPI i am working on. i was gona cut up a factory intake but if anyone knows a generic one, let me know. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted March 6, 2004 Report Share Posted March 6, 2004 check Jegs or Summit they usually have some universal housings . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinale69 Posted March 6, 2004 Report Share Posted March 6, 2004 I added a spring from the throttle to the bracket holding the cable on, and I ran my throttle on the drivers side and still had to turn my fpr a little to clear the tps. I also used the stock cable. I'll take some pics and post them when I can Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel Posted March 6, 2004 Report Share Posted March 6, 2004 Careful on using a ford TPS. They all seem to read "backwards". Most ECUs dont seem to like that I would just have a flange machined. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phishfud Posted March 6, 2004 Report Share Posted March 6, 2004 I thought the Ford TPS was ok? What is everyone running instead? Any info would be great. thanks. terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted March 6, 2004 Report Share Posted March 6, 2004 I discovered the TPS was backwards too, I just wired it backwards so it now reads 0-5V with 0 at idle and 5 at WOT. 2 minute wiring fix. Artinist; I make my own flanges. it is pretty easy with the right tools. Cost is maybe $1. I use a TB for the template, cut the TB opening with a 2 3/4" hole saw (70 mm). The T-stat flange is a little more trickey which is why I re-use the old stat flange when I cut it off the back of a magna. I do make them from scratch for my custom intakes, but it takes time. If you need help on those, I may be willing to help. Also, are you using a TIG to weld these? the MIG process is too porous, I wouldn't recomend that on anything that has water going through it. It can be done, but there is a lot of "fix it" time involved, and it starts to look ugly after a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn_Silva Posted March 6, 2004 Report Share Posted March 6, 2004 I would vouch for Chad as well on mig welding not being the ultimate setup, but if your good with a spool gun it would do in a pinch. You really need to preheat the aluminum before welding with a torch, as your trying to draw as much of the oil and grunge out of the pores before introducing clean fill. Bead blasting the manifold will not clear the pores, it will just lay the pores on their side and once heated will open up and rear their ugly heads. Without preheat your finished product will be brittle, full of porousity, and generally be poor penetration. It's also a great way to improve your reflexes, as attempting to weld oil will attack your helmet with spits and small explosions. Do not attempt this at home. Take care Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn_Silva Posted March 6, 2004 Report Share Posted March 6, 2004 I should also add that the more heat from welding (not preheating) you add, the more chance of warping the manifold flanges. Probably best to bolt the manifold securely to a core cylinder head with all bolts/nuts before attempting to weld to it. This will allow for a quick draw file to true the flange after the welding effort, rather than serious material removal on a mill or having to chase the aluminum to pull back with heat in certain area's. Take care Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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