HEEEEELP!!

[TSI BumbleBee]

Ok, balance shaft went out. Did an elimination kit and new guides on timing chain. 130k on engine. New cover gasket and water pump gasket and new oil pan gasket. Put on a new timing cover crank seal and slapped it back together. Problem one. Was a tard and had a back fire(really big one) while timing it. Now I have coolant in my oil. Cracked head? Head gasket? How hard is it to mess up water pump and or oil pump gaskets? Problem two, she keeps blowing oil by the timing cover crank seal. Felpro gasket installed correctly and seated just fine. Over whelmed and needing some experienced starquesters advise. Ps has original head, new Pcv, and run 5-40 syn oil.

[importwarrior]

sounds like you did not use RTV sealer on the block where the timing cover mates to the front face of the block. Edited December 16, 2013 by importwarrior

[T-Harps]

The non-turbo g54bs use a different oil pump gasket than us. The main opening should be tear drop shaped I believe

[Starfighterpilot]

Import warrior is right you may not have applied sealant to the timing chain gasket in the area of the coolant passages.

 

However there may be something else causing the coolant in the engine oil. The timing chain cover has many bolts of different lenghts which have to be reinstalled in their proper location. You may have a situation where you have put in a bolt that is too long for the threaded hole and it bottomed out - consequently it's not compressing the t-chain cover plate gasket tightly against the block at the LARGE and or small coolant passage hole from the coolant pump/cover plate into the block. See this link about 3/4 of the way down the page for a picture of it. http://starquest.i-x...der=asc&start=0

 

I'd remove all of the t-chain cover fasteners and check their proper lenght for their location IAW the 87/88 Parts catalog, pages 9A -104 and 105. Page 105 gives you the proper bolt lenght, in mm, for it's location.

 

I would also immediately:

 

1) Change the engine oil & filter with cheap oil and the cheapest oil filter you can get. Get a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil and remove the spark plugs and pour copious amounts of that oil into each cylinder. Drain the remaining coolant out of the radiator; remove the coolant pump drive belt and spin the engine using the starter with the coil wire to the dizzy disconnected. This is to remove any coolant in the cyclinders which WILL cause rusting/pitting on the cylinder walls/rings in a short time.

 

2) drop & clean the engine oil pan, clean the top of the head & the ENTIRE valve train, remove and clean the engine oil filter adapter/oil filter "bracket" (#12 on FSM page 9-52) remove the oil cooler & it's oil supply & return lines and clean/flush with #2 diesel fuel and clean the timing chain assembly.

 

Provided that you had the t-chain cover bolting in the wrong location(s) and corrected it, put everthing back together, refill the coolant system with coolant, refill it with the cheap oil, then start the engine run it for about 5 minutes at idle and then dump the junk oil & filter. Do this 2 or 3 times to remove all of the emulsified oil from the engine oil passages etc. Pull and clean/flush the engine oil pan and the engine oil cooler & it's supply & return lines again.

 

If the bolting wasn't the problem, after doing Nos. 1 through 3 above, I'd still start the engine without the coolant pump belt installed, run it for a minute shut it off and then dump & replace the oil & filter, 2 or 3 times. This is to eliminate trashing of the block/ cylinder bores & piston rings/ lifters due to rust generated from the anti-freeze coolant.

 

I hope that you replaced the PCV valve with a MITSU OEM Starquest one. Starquest ones are specifically designed for the turbo boost that our engines generate. Pep Boy's, Autozone PCV's are designed for non turbo engines.

 

Question: is the oil "BLOWING" out of the front crank shaft seal oil or leaking out of it?

 

You also stated in your OP that you replaced the timing chain guides but no mention is made of the t chain or the t chain tensioner, it's spring & rubber "sheet". Your engine has 130 K on it. Unless the t chain, sheet and chain tensioner have been RECENTLY replaced, they are WORN OUT and HAVE to be replaced. If the chain guides were worn out they sure as hell are too.

 

For What IT's Worth.

 

KEN