KKruger Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 I am going to attempt to replace the pinion seal. I have access to a lift on the weekends. Can you guys give me some input on this? What is needed, step by step instructions would be amazing. I have searched the forums and really found nothing of any use. Any help would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natallica Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 (edited) Are you replacing it because of leakage at the weep hole on the torque tube?Mine is dripping a tad and i thought this may fix it as well. I'll follow the thread! Thanks for asking I kept forgetting to. -N8 Edited September 12, 2012 by natallica Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKruger Posted September 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 Yes, I had tried to keep it filled but it is leaking too much now from that hole. I tried Lucas stop leak and even talked to their engineer to verify mixture, etc. This worked for a very short time. I would not recommend it. Plus I have also read that by using the stop leak product I may have decreased the life of the other seals in the differential. I took the car to a mom and pop type shop and he told me they wouldn't touch it because of the possibility of not being able to separate it and damaging it. So I am a bit worried about doing it myself. I know someone on this board must have done it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=131510 Make sure you torque the pinion nut back to manufacturer's specifications upon reassembly. Don't just hit it with an impact gun. An 'in car' fix may be easier on the lift...if your e-brake is strong enough to resist the torque. Then you wouldn't need the spline tool that I made in the thread attached. Make sure that your pinion bearings aren't wearing and giving you play in the pinion...that may be the cause of your leak. kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKruger Posted September 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Is it possible to get a new nut? This was recommended to my by a rebuilder. He said that they are locking nuts and once its off it isn't the same. Are these a common part? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natallica Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Nice write up Kev! -N8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Is it possible to get a new nut? This was recommended to my by a rebuilder. He said that they are locking nuts and once its off it isn't the same. Are these a common part? Most of the oem mitsubishi lock nuts are still available because they were used on all mitsu cars. I didn't replace the nut....besides, the number of times that I had it off and on would effect the locking fixture as well. I guess I could have used the old nut for all of the trials and installed the new nut on the final installation....hmmmm. I'm not to worried about it due to the high preload torque...but this joint has both mechanical and thermal loads. kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKruger Posted September 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Yes thanks Kev for the great info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKruger Posted September 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 So It seems the National P/N 224570 pinion seal is impossible to find but it cross references to a Timken 224570 which is available. This and the nut should be all the parts I need right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKruger Posted October 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 I am getting ready to put the car on the lift this weekend. I have a few questions. As far as the plan, I will remove the drive shaft, remove the TT, then the pinion nut, washer and pull the coupling (which I will mark the relation to the shaft) with a 3 jaw puller. Then the seal, using a sharp screwdriver or similar device. lube the new seal, and put it in, and reassemble.My questions are 1- is this corrrect? 2- When the car is on the lift, I don't expect that the Ebrake will hold. Is there a good way to stop the wheels from spinning when it is on the lift? 3- what can I use to press the seal in considering that the pinion shaft will be sticking out through it? Am I missing anything else? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 I'll do my best to answer: 1. Yes, what you described is a good technique. Lube the seal after your install it. The mating surface is between the spline coupler and the seal. You install the seal before the coupler and will have plenty of room to grease up the seal after it is installed but before installing the spline coupler. 2. As far as holding the wheels....I'm not sure how to answer it. Definetly use the e-brake, but like you said you may need more. If you have some assistance, you can rig up to bars that can bolt to the wheel hubs via the lug nuts and have two buddies hold the bars? May even get away with wedging a 2x4 between the studs on both hubs and have your buddies hold them. Be carefull though, one slip and the bar/2x4 could be thrown into the body. There are many ways to skin a cat on this one. The fact that the rear is in the car and connected to the hubs will benefit you greatly...the hubs give you a place to bolt on a lever arm. The torque isn't super high...around 160 ft-lbs if I remember correctly on like a 24mm threaded joint. It won't take much to resist that load way back at the wheels.3. I used a brass bar to 'tap' in the new seal. ...don't drive it in. Just a tap here...move 120 degrees...another tap...move 120 degrees...another tap....you get the picture. be careful with it and take your time. A single distortion of the seal and it is junk...ie it will leak. You may have to clean up the c'bore where the seal presses into the carrier..specifically the top lip (the point where corrosion would develop),. In my case, I bead blasted my carrier when it was all a part....so I had no debris/corrosion in this c'bore region. Good luck with it. Make sure to torque the pinion nut to factory specification. And prior to untorquing it in the beginning, feal for slop in the pinion. If your bearings are going, a new seal won't cure your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKruger Posted October 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 Yeah I am keeping my fingers crossed on the bearings being OK. That would be way beyond my mechanical and financial ability at this point. I really appreciate all the help on this Kev, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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