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Injectors flooding in an 89 TSI


Dooly
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Hey guys, its me again.

Just got the car running last night for what was apparently the first time in years.

The guy I got it from said he got it running, but since the hard timing was 180 degrees out, I doubt that very much.

Anyhoo, was out tinkering a little today, and I'm getting some SERIOUS flooding issues.

I've already done some searching and I'm leaning towards dirty injectors, but I wanted to elaborate on my exact situation and see if someone might be able to help me from just throwing money at it.

 

So to start the day, it would start and run like garbage. It would eventually be able to idle alone without me feathering the throttle, here's a video of what it ran like:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JtwFRuJ-TPc

 

Then later on, it wouldn't start. So we thought it might be flooded. Unplug both injectors, the car starts and runs at 3k rpm (with my foot on the pedal) for about 5 seconds before sputtering and dying.

The closest it will run to a normal car is with the secondary unplugged, just running the primary.

It idles kinda crap, but can actually rev up without stumbling and stuttering. Then it hits a wall at 3k rpm.

 

If I plug in the secondary, it will run like crap, and rev up like crap but start to run more normal in the higher end of the RPM scale.

 

The o2 sensor was removed and is just hanging out, was wondering if that could be it? I know its not helping at all, I'm wondering if the o2 sensor is just like "Holy crap, there's no fuel in this air, DUMP THAT CRAP!!!" because its just reading fresh air from the outside world?

Also, the temp sensors on the radiator aren't hooked up because the factory fans are gone.

 

Mods on this car is, aftermarket piping, MSD coil, BOV, bigger turbo with external wastegate, some crappy fan that's bolted to the water pump, and a full straight pipe exhaust. I'm not sure what it has done fuel wise.

The injectors look factory. One with a black ring, the other with a green ring.

 

 

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thank you for looking.

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Sounds like what i just went through. send out injectors or get new ones. one of mine was broke, just dumped fuel, and sounded like yours on one injector, but mine is a little different being an '86. the screens above the injectors were clogged, all the way to the tank. clean it all, incuding the hoses. Replace all 3 filters, and maybe your tank pickup screen. (Dad has them if your parts store doesn't) i missed cleaning some parts and had to do it all again, good luck, C300

 

Oh, and put the O2 sensor back in :o

Edited by C300
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Thanks for the advice C300. I was actually looking through your thread earlier and that's what made me start thinking my injectors are dirty.

 

And I will. haha. Kinda sucks because I bought this thing the way it is, and now I'm finding out just how ghetto all the previous owners mods are.

Any idea how far from the turbo I should weld in the new bung?

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These cars are notoriously hard to trouble shoot. I got an '87 almost new in '88. took real good care of it and had 90k of trouble free service. had two problems, fan relay and 5th gear bearing. dealer failed to fix eather one. I fixed both, but was lucky i had the skill. didn't have a computer back then. It got T-Boned :-(. I got my current car/project after the aircraft mechanics daughter had flooding problems with it, sound familiar :-). he told the Mits. dealer the problem, and they called him back 2 days later saying the cam bearings were bad ! eng. in pieces ! he trailered it home and i bought it 15 years later... these guys here are a great help. if these cars sit too long it's a nightmare. that said, if you take the time to go through it like they suggest, they are a great car. been screwing with this one for a year!

 

The bung stock is on the top of the down pipe just before the bend. the closer to the turbo the better the performance, but the closer, the quicker it will burn out. there's lots of opinions on this here. check the frequently asked questions, (till your sick) and good luck, C300

 

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Dooly, the O2 sensor, in conjunction with the other sensors tell the ECM computer how much fuel the eng. needs. believe if it goes bad the car gos to a default setting, running in a "safe" mode to limp you home. has no power. Like Shelby says, just fix what you know needs fixxing. just keep eliminating the problems till they are gone, then you are not going in circles. I don't even want to remove my EGR system till the car is running perfect. that way if it runs like crap i know what the problem is, and i'm not compounding it. if things aren't rite there's no power and the car is slow/boring. that's how i got my last one. guy said it was a slow pos. then wanted to buy it back from me ;-)
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Thats the plan. :)

I'm just wondering about the resistor box because my exhaust is one piece for the turbo to the muffler, so I can't really take my down pipe off and have a bung welded in.

I'm going to try to clean the injectors my self, and if it doesn't improve, I'll probably break down and buy new ones.

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