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clutch question


sburris8
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i replaced the clutch in my 87 with a 87 tranny all stock trans. i replaced it with just another stock clutch. the problem is the clutch will not return (the pedal) i can drive the car but the clutch only has like 1-2 inches of pick up. also when i put it in reverse it sounds like the clutch is not engaged. we bleed the clutch but is there still possibly some air pockets? what does this sound like to you guys?
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i replaced the clutch in my 87 with a 87 tranny all stock trans. i replaced it with just another stock clutch. the problem is the clutch will not return (the pedal) i can drive the car but the clutch only has like 1-2 inches of pick up. also when i put it in reverse it sounds like the clutch is not engaged. we bleed the clutch but is there still possibly some air pockets? what does this sound like to you guys?

Bleed the clutch!!! It will return to normal!

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Still air in the system. Bleed it some more, just remove the bleeder and let it run on the ground or into a container and make sure the reservoir doesn't run out or you'll let in more air. Do that a few times so that you have to completely refill the reservoir bottle at least twice that is a very long line and there might also be air in the slave. Put the bleeder back in now push the slave rod all the way in with your hand now push the pedal down again, it will stick on the floor just pull it back up and now it should be ok, if not do all that over again. You can not bleed this clutch like you bleed brakes, you displace the same fluid in the master and it causes the slave to move by the same fluid then it stops and builds almost no pressure only that it requires to move the pressure plate fingers but there is no fluid left to displace, in brakes you have lots of fluid that pushes to build pressure and hold pressure and there is some still left that can push some more and if you open a bleeder you have all this pressure to blast out and the clutch just doesn't work like this plus its a very small amount and no where near what it takes to move all the fluid out of the entire line and that's why you will never get it bled that way.
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What has always worked for me is I put a 3/16 hose on the bleeder screw and just slightly open it. I then run the hose to the master reservoir and I pump the clutch twice then fill up the reservoir, pump the clutch twice and fill the reservoir and then the fluid can recirculate. Of course if you have nasty fluid in there drain all that first.

 

Then I will push down the clutch pedal and put my finger over the top of the hose and pull the clutch out to have the master sucking in fluid. I do that 3 times and then I just pump the pedal until I am content. This way I'm recycling my fluid and it takes just one bottle.

 

I've never had a problem with air in any line with my method. But it's 100% bled by the time i'm done. I use clear hose so I can watch for air bubbles.

 

Hope this helps

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When bleeding brakes or clutch systems, make sure you jack up the car LEVEL. If you just jack up one corner you will tilt the whole car, and the various parts of the brake and clutch systems, creating high spots that trap air. When LEVEL, the high spots will be the bleed ports.

 

mike c.

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i replaced the clutch in my 87 with a 87 tranny all stock trans. i replaced it with just another stock clutch. the problem is the clutch will not return (the pedal) i can drive the car but the clutch only has like 1-2 inches of pick up. also when i put it in reverse it sounds like the clutch is not engaged. we bleed the clutch but is there still possibly some air pockets? what does this sound like to you guys?

 

HEY I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM...BUT THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IS THAT MY CLUTCH PADDLE HAS NO PRESSURE AND I CANT PUT IN GEAR...IT GOES IN GEAR ONLY WHEN THE CAR IS OFF...NEED HELP PLEASE...

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HEY I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM...BUT THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IS THAT MY CLUTCH PADDLE HAS NO PRESSURE AND I CANT PUT IN GEAR...IT GOES IN GEAR ONLY WHEN THE CAR IS OFF...NEED HELP PLEASE...

Go back up there and do what I said to bleed it.

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