Lance_S Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 When I picked up my Quest I was amazed at how loud it was internally. I wanted to put a stereo in it but wanted to quiet it down first. I did some research and found a solid sound barrier like 40 mil rubber works best over foam or insulation. I picked up 100 sq ft. of 6lb carpet padding at Home Depot for cheap. I had a friend of mine who works for a construction company. He had 100 sq. ft. of used roofing rubber he gave me. NOTE: This was done on the cheap, maybe $40.00 I realize there are plenty of deadener systems out there but they are expensive and I don't believe worth the money. Here are some pics of the job. Yes, it made a substantial difference. The worst part was just the labor. I have approximately 12 hrs of install time on this project but now that it's done I am very happy with the results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuestFan Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Good work man. I want to do something similar because I have the same problem with noise. And I agree with your choice of not using dynamat or one of the other highly expensive sound mats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance_S Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Good work man. I want to do something similar because I have the same problem with noise. And I agree with your choice of not using dynamat or one of the other highly expensive sound mats. Thanks. Yeah, it's all stupid expensive and I don't think it's significantly better. Some of you may wonder about weight. I added 22 lbs of rubber to the car and that covered the hatch floor pan, the hatch side walls, rear inner fender wells, side walls, back of rear seat, floor of rear seat, rear floor pans, front floor pans, front foot well up into the firewall and the tranny hump. basically everything that was metal all the way up the sills to the headliner. I didn't drop the headliner to do the roof. The headliner actually has pretty good padding as it is. The doors will get a separate treatment. I am working on that. The carpet padding was about 10 lbs. So 30 lbs total. Not too bad for a quieter car. I am pulling weight else where so it will balance out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance_S Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Thanks. Yeah, it's all stupid expensive and I don't think it's significantly better. Some of you may wonder about weight. I added 22 lbs of rubber to the car and that covered the hatch floor pan, the hatch side walls, rear inner fender wells, side walls, back of rear seat, floor of rear seat, rear floor pans, front floor pans, front foot well up into the firewall and the tranny hump. basically everything that was metal all the way up the sills to the headliner. I didn't drop the headliner to do the roof. The headliner actually has pretty good padding as it is. The doors will get a separate treatment. I am working on that. The carpet padding was about 10 lbs. So 30 lbs total. Not too bad for a quieter car. I am pulling weight else where so it will balance out. Had to redo pics, here you go: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 the sound deadeners they sell work better because they adhere to the panel and stop the panels themselves from vibrating. the vibrating is what transfers the noise into the car and sometimes creates the noise itself. what you did worked, but isn't quite the same. any pics of the car back together? i don't think it will be quite right. My friend found some syuff that is the same as dynomat but much cheaper and his car is insanely quite. he has a corvette, that plastic car was bad about vibrating panels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuestFan Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 ^^ I was wondering the same about panel fitment issues. Dynamat or similar is probably a little thinner so it would ease the process of making everything fit again. I am definitly doing my doors with dynamat or something similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance_S Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 the sound deadeners they sell work better because they adhere to the panel and stop the panels themselves from vibrating. the vibrating is what transfers the noise into the car and sometimes creates the noise itself. what you did worked, but isn't quite the same. any pics of the car back together? i don't think it will be quite right. My friend found some syuff that is the same as dynomat but much cheaper and his car is insanely quite. he has a corvette, that plastic car was bad about vibrating panels. Yes, vibration causes noise. And when you glue the mat down to the metal with 3M multipurpose adhesive like i did you reduce said vibration. Try taking a sheet of 22 gauge steel (approximately the same size as what is used on most vehicle panels) and glue some 6 lb carpet mat to it. Then glue 45 mil rubber sheet to the carpet mat. Then try tapping the metal with hammer and see if it doesn't reduce vibration. It squelches it. Sure I will post pics of the car back together and I am not sure what you think won't be "quite right". You obviously have to be away of your mounting holes and make sure you have access to them. You don't just blanket the entire car. All of the mounting holes have to be cut out. The car went back together fine. It looks great and is much quieter than it was. Here is a link explaining why you put the mat/insulation/foam down first and then the rubber. for vibration control, you can put some dynamat down in the middle of the large flat panels like the inside of the door panels but just coating your whole car with dynamat is a waste of money. Again, this project was to quiet down the car on the cheap. Dynamat is way overpriced for what you get. Just my opinion of course. Here is a site to help explain what products go where and how they work.http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi And for those who don't think sound deadening products are overpriced? Take a peak at this thread, what people are spending on quieting down their cars is crazy:http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-sq-forum-technical-advanced/27156-how-much-have-you-spent-sound-deadening.html The pic is a custom back seat I made based of an original. I wanted a nice flat surface to place my sub box and amps on. I took a back seat, took off all the vynal, cut the foam at the hump to make it flat, cut a piece of 1/4" luan to make the flat board and used good stuff expanding foam underneath it to fill all the voids. Once that was complete I went to JoanAnn fabrics and bought a piece of black vynal for $10. I used 3m spray adhesive and glued the vynal into place. The nice thing was it still have all the original mounting hardware so I could bolt it right back into place. L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance_S Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 ^^ I was wondering the same about panel fitment issues. Dynamat or similar is probably a little thinner so it would ease the process of making everything fit again. I am definitly doing my doors with dynamat or something similar. Quest fan, Don't use carpet pad backing in the doors, they are subject to moisture and the pad will soak it up. If you want to use it inside the car that's fine. Dynamat is great for doors. I actually like the product from http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi I am planning on doing doors when I install my 6 1/2" drivers. I will use some product from the site I listed. I may also use the 45 mil rubber mat to seal the inside of the doors. I DID NOT use any carpet mat on the doors, it's too thick and the door panels won't go back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 Quest fan, Don't use carpet pad backing in the doors, they are subject to moisture and the pad will soak it up. If you want to use it inside the car that's fine. Dynamat is great for doors. I actually like the product from http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi I am planning on doing doors when I install my 6 1/2" drivers. I will use some product from the site I listed. I may also use the 45 mil rubber mat to seal the inside of the doors. I DID NOT use any carpet mat on the doors, it's too thick and the door panels won't go back on.this is why I don't like all the carpet padding. Like I said, my friend got dynamat quality and enginnering for an awesome price. And the pics didn't look like it was glued down so that's why I said that. but I am glad you took the effort to do something about the noise instead of just ignoring it. wanna do mine? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 Looks good man nice work. I like your choice of materials. I really need to quiet my car down too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance_S Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 this is why I don't like all the carpet padding. Like I said, my friend got dynamat quality and enginnering for an awesome price. And the pics didn't look like it was glued down so that's why I said that. but I am glad you took the effort to do something about the noise instead of just ignoring it. wanna do mine? lol Lol, after about 12 hours of labor.....um, no thanks.http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif But it was well worth the effort. Carpet padding actually works great. I glued it down tight and then glued down the 45 mil rubber onto of that. Makes a big difference. Contolling resonanace is more about treating the larger flat panels than it is about the smaller ones that have more topography built into them. The small ones don't resonate nearly as much. It also gave me an opportunity to get to know the interior of the car really well. I paid $32 for the padding, the rubber was a donation and 2 cans of 3m multipurpose adhesive was around $7. It's tough to quiet a car down for $40.00 The doors on the other hand will need some work. I am putting a pair of 6 1/2 separates with 150W per mid and about 70W per tweet. The doors are going to need quite a bit of work but that is phase two. Just glad to have the hatch and floors done for now. After the doors are treated it will be even quieter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance_S Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 Looks good man nice work. I like your choice of materials. I really need to quiet my car down too. It's worth the work. I was able to strip a few things out that I didn't need while I was add it. ABS controller and module, electric antenna motor, electric antenna controller, etc. Got to dump a little weight which was nice. It looks like you have already spent a ton of time on your ride, looks great. I am on the West side in Grand Haven. If you ever make it over here give me a shout, I would love to see your quest. Lance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C300 Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 my buddy does carpet. uses that stuff to start our bon-fires. burns great... careful . plus, it soaks water up like a sponge. ever emptied a p/u truck of that after it rained ? stay wet in tucson for a week in 100f weather. good luck, C300 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 A sound deadener is a sound deadener. If you can find something cheap, great, but sometimes cheap isn't the way to go. If you live in the south, you want to make sure you get something that won't melt. I've had issues with that down here in TX. I've used both Fatmat and BQuiet mattings and both worked great for sound control and were 1/4 the price of Dynamat, but one of them melts with high heat. I can't rememeber which brand we used in her car, but I wouldn't want to use it on a southern car again. It melted a bit, found a spot to drip, and leaked down some of the tan interior, staining it on the way. Next time I'll be puting in the spray in deadener. I'm sure the cheap way the OP used works fine, but I'd rather use the stuff that's made for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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