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SFBMX88 LS2 Flatty build

s13 rack smog legal flatty 5 lug shortened struts 6 speed auto to manual LS swap t-56

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#21 SFBMX88

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 02:17 PM

It was a long stretch of no progress....I figure it was time to finish the rear coil overs(after over a whole year)....

October 2010:

More usable travel...

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Original rears were blown...

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Made a washer to keep the rear camber adjustment from slipping:

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#22 SFBMX88

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 03:24 PM

November 2010:

Some random steel I welded together to practice my welding:


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Converted to an 88 ECM/igniter/harness/1g DSM maf.  I also snagged some nicer injector clips from a Crown Victoria at the junkyard.  They fit perfect and have the same inner connector shape as OEM, so they wont crack your injector plastic.

Proper way to switch to a 1g MAF plug - de-pin the connectors and swap!  All the wires swap directly over to the 1g connector in the same positions.  Just keep track of the wires by changing over one by one.  Also delete the 7th wire thats by itself from the 1g connector.

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I adapted the 88 harness to the 86 under dash connector.  I also jumped 2 wires at the boost sensor(mounted on the firewall) so the factory boost gauge would still work.  I think its the Red(yellow trace) and Yellow(green trace) wires that have to by joined together.  *Consult your FSM on your specific year :P *

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Ford injector plugs were soldered in place

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Good bye!

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A direct comparison

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Keeping it organized before cutting

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Ready to go in for some plug and play..

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Mounted the igniter to the fuse/relay cover:

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Boost sensor and solenoid were removed..

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#23 SFBMX88

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 03:32 PM

December 2010:

AEM wideband mounted where the stock boost gauge was.  AF sensor was mounted after the primary catalytic converter.


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Cutting was in order:

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Sourced power and ground from the cluster connector

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POO.

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#24 SFBMX88

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 03:46 PM

December 2010 continued:

Had a 2.5" exhaust made from the down pipe back.  I also made this crude silencer for street use.

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Welded that hanger on there so the silencer doesn't accidentally fall down the exhaust when I remove/install it.

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1g MAF slightly hogged out:

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Installed an adjustable potentiometer so I could get an RPM signal to my SAFC2(tipped of to this by StarquestRescue).  This converts the analog signal in our cars to digital so the SAFC can read it.

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Mounted behind the ECM

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HAHZAH!

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Some random 924 on the street...

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Went to Thunderhill for a drift/skidpad/full track event.  Unfortunately, I didn't get many pictures since I was driving...

Start of the day around 5:30am

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Drove to the track, went home on a trailer.  Nothing went wrong, the car was bullet proof all day.  We just had an opening on the trailer so I took it and fell asleep in the truck on the way back home :)

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Gasoline well spent.

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Edited by SFBMX88, 27 March 2012 - 09:44 PM.


#25 HeroJr

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 06:41 PM

Thanks for sharing your progress. My Dad had a Toyota Starlet when I was young. I learned to drive stick in that car, in fact. I'd like to find one some time - yours looks great!
89 Conquest TSi - Silver with maroon interior, 19c turbo, OVC hardpipe with bov, MSD street fire 6al ignition controller, 2.5" turbo back exhaust, NJV head ported and polished, hd springs, os valves, mechanical rockers, stock cam, stock MAF, Stage 4 Competition Clutch, lightened flywheel
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#26 89BananaQuest

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 08:28 PM

Love the car man!  And im thinking about stealing ur idea of mounting the wideband in the cluster instead of the boost gauge.  Also how did u get ur gauges to be so bright?

#27 Killtodie

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 09:45 PM

How does that silencer work and stay in place? More pics and details please, I'm interested.

#28 BOOSTED88tsi

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 09:56 PM

whoa. when did you come by my old house. Holy crap my memory is terrible haha. Also shifter will be there tomorrow.
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2003 600rr ,1987 conquest, and a soon to be 03 cobra powered 1968 mustang coupe.

#29 SFBMX88

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 09:58 PM

View Post89BananaQuest, on 14 March 2012 - 08:28 PM, said:

Love the car man!  And im thinking about stealing ur idea of mounting the wideband in the cluster instead of the boost gauge.  Also how did u get ur gauges to be so bright?

I think the gauges look so bright because of the camera settings and the high contrast.

View PostKilltodie, on 14 March 2012 - 09:45 PM, said:

How does that silencer work and stay in place? More pics and details please, I'm interested.

I just welded a nut to the silencer, and drilled a hole in the exhaust pipe.  The silencer slides into the tail pipe and attaches with a 12mm bolt.  Its a little quieter, but not by much.  I think I could do more by welding some baffles to it.

#30 SFBMX88

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 10:00 PM

View PostBOOSTED88tsi, on 14 March 2012 - 09:56 PM, said:

whoa. when did you come by my old house. Holy crap my memory is terrible haha. Also shifter will be there tomorrow.


Hah, I think that was when I had class in Concord.  I might have planted some widebody fenders in the pink panther that day.

#31 SFBMX88

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 08:24 PM

January 2011

Replaced all the valve seals....

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Then destroyed some tires.....

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Video a friend of ours put together from the days footage:


Edited by SFBMX88, 23 March 2012 - 02:29 AM.


#32 SFBMX88

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 08:48 PM

October 2011

I sold a bunch of parts, then I bought a bunch of parts....

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This should be my original 86 harness I pulled out when I switched to an 88 harness/ecm.  Stripped it down and used what I needed.

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Pulling it all out...

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This needed locking...

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I pulled the advance apart...

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you don't need these parts:

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Just these(note - of the 3 tabs, the one at the 9 o'clock position has to be cut for clearance when assembled):

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Ground two slots down on the base:

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Together, then welded(note - I had to cut one of the 3 tabs off, just like the procedure for from FIP for clearance when assembled):

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All advance mechanisms were locked out/disabled.

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Sorry, no pics of it assembled, but it does look OEM!

#33 SFBMX88

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 08:53 PM

More October 2011.....

Dash is out once again :)

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Mounted the MS to the back case of the orignal ecm after triple checking clearance with the blower motor.

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Decided to delete the old, corroded 3 pin connector from the fuse link box and just wire it straight....

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No more connector...

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#34 SFBMX88

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 09:04 PM

November 2011

Since I was building a new harness, I decided to combine some circuits into it, including all the gauge sender wires.

Old connector got cut, and I added some switches to the panel.  OEM multi pin connectors worked well here :)

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All cleaned up and organized, I even rewired the OEM fuel pump test connector to rest right next to the MS.

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The accusump and electric fan circuits were also integrated into the harness.

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Used/clean relay connectors from old harnesses I had made their way onto the harness with solder, dielectric grease, and shrink wrap:

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A few hours of work later.....

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Edited by SFBMX88, 19 March 2012 - 09:40 PM.


#35 SFBMX88

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 09:11 PM

November 2011 continued....

Made my way to the intake side of the engine bay.  EGR solenoid is wired in and controlled by MS.  I also used some injector plugs from a Ford Crown Victoria 4.6 for the injectors.  The one thing I remember most about all this was how much my back hurt afterward.

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Welded a bung to the charge pipe for the air temp sensor...

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Made a battery hold down bracket for my temporary tiny battery(that I hi-jacked off my Toyota Starlet).

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I also adapted a small Toyota fuse box to the battery.

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#36 SFBMX88

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 09:21 PM

December 2011

Alignment before a track day at Thunderhill!

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Off to Thunderhill!  My housemates F20c powered 4 door TE72 Corolla on the trailer.

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Chasing my friend in a Miata.

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Datalogging :P

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Highly visible!

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Basically emptied the tank, but it was worth it!  Car developed an exhaust leak at the manifold gasket, but didn't blow up so I was happy.

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Some raw video:



Video summary of the day my other housemate put together...


Edited by SFBMX88, 03 April 2012 - 08:29 PM.


#37 89BananaQuest

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 09:37 PM

So this is deffinatly One of my favorite threads on here!!!  Keep up the good work man!

#38 SFBMX88

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 12:10 PM

View Post89BananaQuest, on 19 March 2012 - 09:37 PM, said:

So this is deffinatly One of my favorite threads on here!!!  Keep up the good work man!

Thanks man!

Almost caught up now....

January 2012

MSD 6al installed.  I made some mounting brackets out of aluminum.  I also depinned the harness connector to eliminate the wires I didn't need and for cylinder selection(4).  I also installed a Pertronix EPOXY core coil(so it was okay to install upside down).

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The MSD was triggered off the MS, so now I had no signal to the factory tachometer.  Scott87star had an easy fix for this: http://www.26liter.u...hp?topic=4838.0  - This basically mimics what the original coil would do to create a usable signal to the dash tachometer.

Going by the diagram in the link above, I crammed everything into a relay.  This first one is my test bed.  Hooked it up loose and it worked perfect.

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I then took apart a Denso relay(I had extra laying around that I save for my Toyota).  Basically, you pull all the moving parts out of it, and solder in the resistor and transistor based on the wiring diagram provided in the link above.

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Saved this plate for assembly..

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Take care with these terminals though!  They break off very easily.  Luckily, I had another relay.  After not breaking that one, I added some superglue to the terminals and plastic for extra insurance.

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Wired in yet another relay connector and used a relay boot/bracket to hold it all in place.

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Scoped the pattern here.  Input squarewave trace on the bottom is from the MSD.  The voltage spikes on the upper trace is what the stock tachometer needs to see.  The spikes are generated by the magnetic field collapse in the relay coil.

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Quick video(with a loud input shaft bearing) - also shows the limiter display of the 6425 - mine is set to 6000, so the msd displays it by sweeping the needle of the tach.



I have also been looking at upgrading the OEM coolant temp sensor to a newer Mitsubishi unit.  Of the service manuals I found, the specs for most of the newer sensors are almost identical to the original StarQuest sensor, and they fit perfect in the stock manifold.  The newer sensors also have nice weather sealed connectors, so they would make a nice upgrade.  It should work well with the Megasquirt, but I'm not sure how it will run with the stock ECM as I have not tested it.

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More to come.....

Edited by SFBMX88, 13 July 2017 - 02:34 AM.


#39 DryBear

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 01:31 PM

I like the use of the newer temp sensor - would be cool if this works.

#40 SFBMX88

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 11:04 PM

February 2012

Kinda cool I got pictured(mirrored image) chasing down a Mustang for a track day flyer...too bad I could't make it though...

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I got bored, so I cut open a Starion oil separator I had laying around.  I just had to know what was in there...

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Original rubber clutch line went out, so I found an easy replacement for it.  Russell -3 an to metric adapter - 641411,  Russell 13" straight braided hose, -3 an to 10mm banjo - 657302.  Worked out great and has OEM fit and cost.

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Tried to see what SHP 9s in the front look like...not too good....although I could try to run fiberglass over fenders if I ever wanted to go wider...

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Finally got to work on setting up my extra rear end to a 3.909 ring and pinion and restacked the LSD plates with extra friction discs and plates.

Lots of good info here >>>>>>>>>>http://www.starquest...=1

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From the factory, they are in this order:

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New order:

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I had to compress one side of the clutch stack to get everything to line up assemble easily.

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Edited by SFBMX88, 18 May 2012 - 04:10 AM.






Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: s13 rack, smog legal, flatty, 5 lug, shortened struts, 6 speed, auto to manual, LS swap, t-56

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