SFBMX88

Pull it from a D50/mighty max if you have access to a local junkyard. No tools required, You can take the firewall plug too, but you may need a screwdriver to pry it out. You just need some soap and water to clean them up to as new condition.

http://clunkbucket.com/starions-a-plenty/ http://clunkbucket.com/starlet-and-starion-conquest/

Had one of these up above my rear view mirror at the very edge of the windshield. Sticky mounts on the inside, wires routed down the inside of the a-pillar to a switched power source and radio. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-CFm1LqezP6D/p_12044UA200/Universal-Window-mount-Antenna.html?search=antenna http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/products/2005/120/h12044ua200-fp.jpg

Im probably not gonna drive this as often as I used to, so these are probably gonna be the last set of headlights I ever buy for the car. Google search other forum threads for long term reviews. These have been out for at least 3 years now, so you can probably find more info out there than I would be able to provide. http://www.yotatech.com/f131/truck-lite-5x7-led-headlight-review-265275/ http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/usmcdoc/lights/index.php http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=558153 Ive read on other forums that they may not be well suited for snow driving since they dont generate enough heat to melt any built up snow on the lenses. Doesnt look like they have heated lenses available for the 5"x7" yet as with the 7" round model. http://www.jk-forum....lements-295456/ http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx273/emiles3/PROMO1r1800w_zpsd35f34f5.jpg

Picked up a set of Truck-lite LED 27450C headlights from http://www.drivetrai...-yj-headlights/ (lowest price per pair Ive found @$350). These are basically the same as the GE Nighthawk LED headlights, probably come out of the same factory too. Didnt want to buy from Ebay or Amazon for fear of receiving knockoffs. Install was super easy as these are plug-and-play. The pictures of the light output do them no justice! Excellent visibility, but I still need to aim them. Fitment with the plastics installed is perfect. Lights turn on instantly being LED. There is no warm up time as normally associated with HID. Construction details - these are put together very well. They're also slightly heavier than standard 6054 halogens. http://i.imgur.com/3eXsHQT.jpg http://i.imgur.com/U6BrTZc.jpg http://i.imgur.com/KKpBKNj.jpg http://i.imgur.com/pM2BmIy.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Cdjw8o1.jpg The lense is a bit thicker then a normal 6054 sealed beam, but it does not affect fitment/headlight opening/closing. http://i.imgur.com/FIwVCsT.jpg Halogen sealed beam on left, LED on right: http://i.imgur.com/IO5SUxu.jpg Sorry for the cell phone pics http://i.imgur.com/VUSyOL9.jpg http://i.imgur.com/CfgU2fy.jpg http://i.imgur.com/XqGXkHf.jpg http://i.imgur.com/cf0ypuE.jpg http://i.imgur.com/FyDtaDr.jpg Low beam: http://i.imgur.com/SQXtT5g.jpg High beam: http://i.imgur.com/214zybV.jpg Low beam: http://i.imgur.com/dNRRDFf.jpg High beam: http://i.imgur.com/P9GI7V7.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ezqIcGt.jpg Low beam: http://i.imgur.com/kPCiAdt.jpg High beam: http://i.imgur.com/R7X8UYy.jpg If you've been considering these, then do it! LED has come a long way. No need to deal with projector retrofits, "projector" housings on ebay, mounting ballasts, or losing your high beam trying to switch to HID. Just be sure to get a set from a QUALITY manufacturer and legit vendor. So many knock-offs these days....http://betterautomot...m/tag/knockoff/ Also, stay away from the LED retrofit bulbs that fit into H4 housings. Light output and focus isnt gonna be anywhere near that of a properly designed LED light assembly.

July 2015 So life happened, and the car has been pretty low on the priority list. Not much done with the car, but it still runs and drives thankfully. To keep my interest in the car up, I picked up a set of Truck-lite LED 27450C headlights from http://www.drivetrai...-yj-headlights/ (lowest price per pair Ive found @$350). These are basically the same as the GE Nighthawk LED headlights, probably come out of the same factory too. Didnt want to buy from Ebay or Amazon for fear of receiving knockoffs. Install was super easy as these are plug-and-play. The pictures of the light output do them no justice! Excellent visibility, but I still need to aim them. Fitment with the plastics installed is perfect. Lights turn on instantly being LED. There is no warm up time as normally associated with HID. Construction details - these are put together very well. They're also slightly heavier than standard 6054 halogens. http://i.imgur.com/3eXsHQT.jpg http://i.imgur.com/U6BrTZc.jpg http://i.imgur.com/KKpBKNj.jpg http://i.imgur.com/pM2BmIy.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Cdjw8o1.jpg The lense is a bit thicker then a normal 6054 sealed beam, but it does not affect fitment/headlight opening/closing. http://i.imgur.com/FIwVCsT.jpg Halogen sealed beam on left, LED on right: http://i.imgur.com/IO5SUxu.jpg Sorry for the cell phone pics http://i.imgur.com/VUSyOL9.jpg http://i.imgur.com/CfgU2fy.jpg http://i.imgur.com/XqGXkHf.jpg http://i.imgur.com/cf0ypuE.jpg http://i.imgur.com/FyDtaDr.jpg Low beam: http://i.imgur.com/SQXtT5g.jpg High beam: http://i.imgur.com/214zybV.jpg Low beam: http://i.imgur.com/dNRRDFf.jpg High beam: http://i.imgur.com/P9GI7V7.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ezqIcGt.jpg Low beam: http://i.imgur.com/kPCiAdt.jpg High beam: http://i.imgur.com/R7X8UYy.jpg If you've been considering these, then do it! LED has come a long way. No need to deal with projector retrofits, "projector" housings on ebay, mounting ballasts, or losing your high beam trying to switch to HID. Just be sure to get a set from a QUALITY manufacturer and legit vendor. So many knock-offs these days....http://betterautomot...m/tag/knockoff/ Also, stay away from the LED retrofit bulbs that fit into H4 housings. Light output and focus isnt gonna be anywhere near that of a properly designed LED light assembly.

Bump. Anybody local to the SF Bay interested in an 88 transmission? I was told that it had been rebuilt, but dont want to crack it open to find out. Dont really want to ship right now. Local pick up would be preferred!

Do not buy one from out of state. If its a brand new cat and doesnt have the CARB numbers, it will fail the visual portion of the smog. "For Pre-OBDII Vehicles, inspectors shall use the EO number to verify the CAT falls within the correct vehicle category- PC-1, PC-2, T-1, T-2. Refer to ARB’s Web site for a separate Pre-OBDII EO Listing containing the EO numbers and corresponding vehicle categories. Inspectors are not required to check specific vehicle application using the series or part numbers" StarQuests are PC-2

Just buy a new aftermarket cat. You dont know what condition a used catalytic converter will be in. If youre trying to pass smog, you want that cat to be working. See https://ssl.arb.ca.gov/PartsSearchTool/CatalystSearchTool.aspx for California legal cats.

I would say just spend the extra money and get the right part that fits properly. Better to do it right the first time. Theres always a greater risk with "universal" parts, especially on Ebay.

http://forums.techguy.org/attachments/212904d1344604736/bump75000.jpg

Anyone know if the GTR and 1G DSM valve are interchangeable? Looks like the GTR valve is from Mitsubishi and may have the same flange. GTR: http://i.imgur.com/j9vkycE.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/oCY8Yru.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/s6x8P97.jpg 1G DSM: http://i.imgur.com/RhSMogQ.jpg

Very nice, got my auto 86 flatty for $1700 in 2008 with 63,000 miles on it.

Are you close to any junkyards? Pull it out of a D50/Mighty Max.

There was an issue with lowering springs and front camber plates awhile back. http://www.starquest...howtopic=105765 http://www.starquest...showtopic=86494 The problem was that camber plates(not just from Mookeeh) end up being taller than the factory upper strut isolators, and in combination with the stock upper spring retainers, raised ride height. Anybody know if the issue was fixed? Anyone running stock springs/stock style lowering springs with any type of front camber plate care to comment?