IGot4UGot8

SOLD

Heat works good, no AC. It has a few little things that a new owner would probably want to address. The body is mostly straight, but it does have a few dings here and there... no rust, and no tornadic activity. I'm not totally happy with the Mookeeh struts on it, they seem a little stiff and clunky. I think the turbo seals are starting to seep... I get some smoke out of the exhaust after heavy boost. It doesn't like to be started in cold weather... I have to baby the throttle until it warms up a bit, then it's fine. Also, I can't seem to get it tuned just right... It drives great under normal conditions, but if I give it heavy throttle, then push in the clutch to coast, the engine will die. I can pop the clutch and it comes right back to life. I've just gotten used to it and it's not a big deal to me, but it can get annoying. Lastly, there is no radio installed, and the hatch area interior needs done. I was going to build in a custom amp rack and sub, but haven't gotten around to it. The way I see it, all the major stuf is done, it just needs someone that wants to tinker with it. I'm not pressed to sell, but for my asking price, I have some options to sweeten the deal. I have a full set of polished 7's and 8's with 2 brand new 245/45's on them, OR I can get hold of an '89 Conquest parts car (complete except for engine, title included). Jake

Sounds pretty sweet, and thanks for the offer, but if I'm gonna have a 'Quest, I'll keep mine. Jake

Thanks!! Wanna buy it? He's doing good. Still staying too busy to have any fun... but good nonetheless. Jake

Bump for new price!!

If anyone here is interested, lets work out a deal. I'm not incredibly firm on price. Jake

Motor and tranny have both been rebuilt with under 10K miles on them. Motor is .050 over, balanced with balance shafts eliminated. Head has quite a bit of port work done to it, but I'm still running stock cam and mostly stock fuel system. High flow fuel pump, 17C turbo, full 3" mandrel bent exhaust, aluminum intercooler hardpipes, Stage 4 Competition clutch, new struts, braided brake lines as well as oil cooler lines. Much more small parts!! The car is not yet perfect, but I think I've got a good start on it. I wouldn't hesitate to drive it anywhere. I drive 65 miles round trip every day with no issues. Located in Wichita, KS... would consider delivery within reason. Asking $3900 Jake 3l6-99O-7O32 JLauer78@cox.net I don't get on the boards much anymore, so email would be the best contact. http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee66/JLauer78/RightFront.jpg http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee66/JLauer78/RightRear.jpg http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee66/JLauer78/EngineBay.jpg http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee66/JLauer78/Passenger.jpg View more pics here http://s230.photobuc...er78/slideshow/

Here's my situation. '88 'Quest with new motor... bored .050 over, 7:1 pistons, BS eliminated, 1G MAS, head has been ported, stock cam, stock TB with cleaned injectors, *DM Hard pipes, 17c (stock boost), full 3" exhaust, 3 wire O2, Comp Clutch flywheel and stage 4 clutch. In cold weather, it is a bear to start and keep running. I have read that the 3 wire O2 should fix this, but didn't seem to on mine. I'm not terribly concerned about this, but thought I'd mention it while I'm here. My main concern is this. When driving easy, I have no problems other than the idle and vacuum bouncing a little when I let off the throttle. Medium throttle, it will drop the RPMs way down, but they will recover. When I give it heavy throttle, if I push the clutch in and try to coast, it will kill the engine. I have gone through the ISC and TPS adjustment process several times. I have even swapped the ISC out with another one. My idle right now is at about 1000 at running temp. I know this is a little high, but it helps a tiny bit. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Jake

I have this setup on my 88. I had the same concern that you had, but opted for the stage 4 clutch over the stage 2 just "in case". I'm very happy that I did. I don't get any chatter. The pedal is a little stiff, I suppose.. but I like it. Jake

I just recieved a package from Brett, aka Crazy Larry. Brett was very easy to deal with, had the parts packaged and mailed promptly, and I recieved them exactly as described 2 days later. Thanks again, Brett. Jake

I'm looking for 2 pieces to finish out my manual seatbelt converted interior. I need the passenger A Pillar trim, and the steel piece that fits over the headliner/door on the passenger side. I prefer black, but will consider other colors if I can't find the black. Let me know what you have. Thanks Jake Sorry, Just realized I posted this in the wrong forum.

Since you brought up the G8... Jake

I have a '97 Tahoe that I use as my tow rig. It has no problem towing a 3000lb trailer with a 'Quest on it. It has 257K miles on it and tows with no issues. Get anything much heavier or longer on there, and it gets a little squirrely. I don't know if I would try towing with anything shorter, such as a Blazer, though. Jake

While many of these shops can probably do 3" crush bent exhaust, there are considerably fewer shops that have the equipment to do the mandrel bent. The exhaust that JR is selling is a quality setup, and his supplier has the ability to offer plenty of options. Shoot him an email... he has been pre-occupied with his daily job lately, but is still very committed to the starquest community. Jake

I know this is an old thread, but I had the same question, so I took one apart. While it may be possible to change the cylinder itself, it is far easier to change the entire collar. The cylinder is held in place from the factory by 3 pins that are pressed in place. I tried drilling the pins out, and they just dulled my bit. Once the pins were out, the cylinder came right out, along with all the springs and mechanisms inside the housing. I'm not sure if this would happen in the car, I was working on a bench. You'd also have to either press new pins in or tap the holes for set screws (something I think they should have just done to begin with). Like I said, just easier to follow the above thread. The only issue I had with that was getting to the top screw with the column still in the car. It wasn't a big deal to me because I was working on a scrap car... but you may have to find a way to protect your dash while cutting the notch. Hope this helps. Jake