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I've been running coil on plug (COP) for several years now and had made up a dozen or so plates to support them on the valve cover. Still have 4 left, $75 shipped via USPS Priority Mail. They are cut for the Ford modular coils but can be easily modified to run the Sebring style coils. The Ford modulars come in just about any color you can think of if you want to color match, yellow on a bananna car would be awesome! 6061 aluminum, 0.075" thick, they polish up real nice. http://picturehosting.com/images/oblique9881/copsystem006.jpg http://picturehosting.com/images/oblique9881/photo1.jpg http://picturehosting.com/images/oblique9881/copsebring.jpg http://picturehosting.com/images/oblique9881/copbracket.jpg I also offer the complete setup with polished plate, four coils mounted with coil drivers all wired up for $395. You would need a stand alone ECU with two (wasted spark) or four (sequential) logic level coil outputs to properly run it. Yes, the FIP ECU systems can be made to operate these. You also would need at least a "crank" signal or crank and cam for sequential, the Mighty Max optical distributor can supply both. THIS PLATE DOES NOT WORK WITH MITSUBISHI SCRIPT VALVE COVERS as those are missing the rearmost mounting hole next to the #4 cylinder. You could certainly TIG something up to make it work.

Ok so Ive been having an issue that is slowly getting worse, no matter what I do to trace it... Have a "spoon in the coffee can" type rattle coming from the valve cover, at around 2200-3000, and the rattle will back off if I full throttle it, and never has no problems on decell. The new parts... New cap, new rotor, new plug wires, new oem heat range plugs, and plugs are gapped now at .035", new coil. Timing is set at 10 degrees BTDC, new fuel filter, oil filter, oil is 10w-30 and right on the money w/ the dipstick. Now that its getting hotter out the rattle is increasing. Now, sounds to me like pre-ignition, so I upped the gap to the maximum of .04" and it ran like uber s***, and actually started misfiring and then a no start condition. Pulled the plugs back out, and they were fuel soaked and fowling. Put, the plugs back to the .035" gap, and now its back to running normally. Now, this problem didn't occur until this last tune up, so I put everything that I had just pulled off, minus the plugs and the rattle didnt improve at all. The vehicle is a low mileage, (79k) 89" with all stock components. Being an 89' it has auto lash adjusters, but it sounds just like a bad valve lash thats getting more, and more sloppy every day. Three question then... #1 Where can I place a manual fuel pressure gauge to ensure I have the proper pressure as it fuel soaked the plugs once I put the gap to the max.... Now, Ive never heard a noise like this because of too much fuel, usually just the opposite. #2 Is it possible to pull the valve cover, and run the vehicle, like you can on any old motor? Ya, I know its gonna be slinging some oil, but is it high pressure in the valve cover? #3 Any one had this type of concern before, with hydraulic lifters? ...Never floated the valves, and highly doubt theres a bent valve, as the rattle will go away on both decell and WOT. No blow by what so ever. Any thoughts would be much appreciated!

Someone tried to steal my car at one point in its life... Looking for a matching set of the - ignition cylinder - and - driver side door lock - with a key also need the car's side of the wire connector for the ign cylinder and a few inches of wire coming from it- need to rewire it to the wire harness as it was bypassed by a start button and some silly switches Have paypal Shipping to 92130 CA Thanks Aaron P.S. Also looking for rear hatch strut replacements- (to hold open the rear hatch, incase i was naming the wrong thing) any autoparts stores carry these? they have a hard enough time trying to figure out what kind of car it is ("No, its not a mini-van... Try it again- it's a Conquest"), let alone finding specific parts

I purchased an 86 flatty about five months ago and it had a few issues at the time of purchase. There were exhaust leaks around the turbo assembly and it was running rough. What I mean by rough is that it would crank up and drive, but it had very little power, and seemed to bog down when I got into the throttle. I did a few basic things like fix the exhaust leak in the muffler and changed out the plugs, distributor cap. It didn't really run any better. I asked around about a suitable mechanic to work on my car and decided on a tuner shop here in town. Went by and discussed my Conquest issues with the owner and about a week later took it to the shop. They fixed the exhaust leaks around the turbo/exhaust manifold assembley and determined that the rough running was due to a bad distributor. Replaced the distrubutor with a remanufactured one from auto zone. I went up to the shop and the technician told me that it was running great, when he went to start it up for me, no start. They continued to troubleshoot, off and on for a few months. The the tech that was working on it got fired. I finally went and got the car last week and brought it home. It still doesn't start. So....my thinking is that the first place to start is where the shop left off. The distributor. If it at least ran before they replaced it, and now it doesn't, the possibility that I got a bad remanufactured distributor. So I am in the process of checking into that at the moment. I have an chilton manual for the car and will post as I go through the troubleshooting process. Any wisdom or suggestions as far as troubleshooting would be much appreciated.

So here is my problem.... I bought my 87 Starion in non running condition. The previous owner couldn't figure it out. He took it to the Mitsubishi dealer and had them check it over. They installed a new IAC setup but still couldnt figure out what was wrong. They blamed it on the MAF-T and said that is probably what was causing it to not start. I purchased a new one version 2.2 and still nothing. The wiring harness on the right half of the engine bay was completely hacked and taped together. It came with an 88 knock box and ecu. The EGR, air conditioning and antilock brakes were taken out. This is what I have done.... I finally got the car to start by moving the distributor back and forth. It would idle fine for a while then it would start the UP down UP down idle thing. As soon as I would get the car to about 3,000rpm it would just stall with no power and no gas until it dropped back to around 1,000rpm then it would kick back in. I installed new injector clips and all wiring to them. I was going to reset the ISC etc but the car just stopped working. So I took out the entire wiring harness on the right half of the engine and built a new one making sure to build it exactly as it was, going by the factory service manual. SO now after all that I still dont have fuel or spark. Fuel injectors are getting 50lbs, power to injectors a steady 12v, main relay is brand new all tach and negative ignition coil wires hooked up properly and are getting to the ECU. COULD this be the knock box? I want to install the MSD ignition system like I have seen on many other Starions but no one ever really talks about it. I found this diagram somewhere and it looks like this is all I will need to do to get the car running again. http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj279/volopics/87%20Starion/MSD_CARV_DIST.jpg Is this all I will need to install the MSD system? I wanted to get the 6-BTM becasue of the turbo timing retard. Do I even need that since the distributor does that already? Thank you all for your help and sorry for the REALLY long post. I figured it would be easier to get all the facts out first to save time later answering a hundred questions.

If any of you have been following my build (or several threads concerning it) you know I'm having a hell of a time getting spark. I don't really know if this is a MegaSquirt-related problem or if it involves the factory ECU so if at all possible I would appreciate it being left in VM to get some more exposure. Initially I was running the stock distributor pickup and ignitor and the car was running TBI. I first switched over to MegaSquirt with the stock dizzy/pickup and ignitor and the car had spark. For whatever reason the signal was not getting to the MS ECU so it would only start for a second or so because of the fuel injected during the prime pulse. Then, in the interest of possibly killing two birds with one stone, I swapped over to a CR125 Caravan distributor pickup and had the stock ignitor modified to control spark along with having the MS wiring, programming, and MS unit itself modified accordingly. I also had the dizzy locked and the vacuum advance removed and sealed. This was to allow ignition control through MS which would allow me to retard timing more than 7 degrees (the max allowed by the stock dizzy/ignitor setup). I was also hoping that by switching to the CR125 pickup it would eliminate the signal issues I was having. I sent Scott my dizzy, MS ECU, and wiring harness and he used a known good ignitor to modify as a core exchange. Everything checked out properly on his MS Stimulator and he even went so far as to check the V+, GND, and IGN signal wires on a car and verified it picked up an RPM signal in TunerStudio, which it did. Now, in my car, I have no ignition signal, and because of the way the CR125 module and MS work together, no spark whatsoever. I'm hoping that a couple hundred heads are better than two and we can all brainstorm to get this thing running. I used a voltmeter to check engine/body/battery ground continuity, resistance (everything is connected properly and shows no resistance) along with checking voltage at various points versus across the battery terminals (kinda a secondary test to verify the resistance results). Please help me before I push this 99% completed install off a cliff. Let me know what things I should check for. This may or may not be related, but my automatic seat belts, power door locks, and interior lights don't work. The power windows do along with the exterior lights (but the fogs don't). It's been an electrical nightmare working on this car because the previous owner hacked everything apart and I'm trying my best to fix it, just feeling a little overwhelmed right now and would like to get the car running.