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Found 5 results

  1. Sorry for posting this in the newbie section, I still can't post in the virtual mechanic 🤨 I have a weird idle issue after coming to a stop at lights or stop signs. When going into neutral with the engine ~2000 - 2500 rpm the idle will drop to ~500 - 600 and it after a bit it might go back up to 700 but until I tap the throttle a little it'll stay lower and doesn't quite sound like it's running healthy. I've been able to get around this by just giving it a little gas while braking and then it doesn't have problems keeping idle after I get to a stop. This only happens when using the brakes at a lower rpm or when coasting in neutral. Another situation where the idle drops is when backing out of my driveway in reverse and using the brakes when it's just idling with the clutch in. I suspected it might be a bad brake booster so I tried a few tests that are supposed to tell you if you have either a vacuum leak in the lines going up to the booster or the booster itself, and it seemed like everything was functioning normally. I have some new ( specifically reinforced brake vacuum booster vacuum line ) coming so I can replace the old ones and rule out it being a vacuum line. Could it possibly be something with any of the emissions equipment going bad after 40 years? If anyone has any ideas or pointers to the right directions anything is appreciated.
  2. On cold start it barely stays idling, sometimes tach drops to just above zero and the engine tries to die Light throttle input makes it worse (revs drop considerably) More throttle input eventually gets the revs to come up, but it goes back to bad idle if released After 5 mins or so when its warmed up it runs perfectly fine (idle is strong and light throttle revs just fine) Which temp sensor tells ecu when to richen for cold start? one on intake mani right by the thermostat housing has always been an aftermarket cabin gauge looks like that's the bung where the factory one went (but i have an 85 fsm and 87 car- so not sure) Any insight helps, thanks
  3. I'm looking for a new idle air control value for my 88 quest. Thank you
  4. So this has been an issue since I bought this car a few month back, but it seems to be even worse with the cold weather. My starion (87) runs horrible on cold start up. It's not really drivable at all, and has a very difficult time revving at all. The narrow band (I know, lame, but that's what the car had in it when I got it) starts out all the way lean, then slowly makes its way to all the way rich. It stays pegged on rich for 5 or 10 minutes until the car goes into closed loop, at which time the idling smooths out, it will rev, and it appears to be running fine. If I start the car up when it is already warmed up, then it runs fine, and if it is halfway warmed up, it runs rough (but not as bad) for a shorter period of time. I changed the cts a little while back, and am not sure what to look towards next. Any insights would be very helpful! Thanks.
  5. Hey, I've been a follower here for a while now, and am finally able to get to some of the projects on my starion, so I hope to find some help from all of the experience in the forum. The first question I have is about when my car first starts up. It runs really rough and feels like it misses a bunch for a couple of minutes, while idling pretty high. Then all of a sudden the idle drops to normal and it drives just fine. I assume that once it goes into closed loop it is fine, but what can I do to help it while in open loop? Thanks, -Kyle
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