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only place i know to start is from when i got my 86' widebody. this will be my first post on the forum, as usually i can find a solution to my problems in the years of info in this forum but my problem i havnt found anything. this is my 2nd 86 dodge conquest tsi. the first looked great but ran poorly and threw a rod. anyway i received my second one with 89,000 miles. paint was trash but ran pretty well and everything was there and then some. it has had a fuel cut issue since ive owned the car but i just keep it under 7lb about a week into ownership i blew up a jet valve and thought i blew a headgasket, i saw smoke i shut it down and tow it to my shop. crack the valve cover off to find a stuck jet valve and a broken rocker ear on the first rocker on the intake assembly. luckily by the grace of god it was one big chunk and i was able to remove the debree and it not damage anything from what i could tell. so next thing to do for me was put in a jet valve elimination kit to get rid of those and not have to 1 buy a new jet valve rocker and jet valve or 2 not have to convert my valvetrain to full mechanical valve lashers etc. at this time i took the lifters out let them sit in oil and took apart pretty much the whole head besides the valves and valve springs and the head itself. i also noticed the car run better without my mas plugged in, my first conquest did the same thing and i never ran it. ive done the same with this car and it hasnt ever given me issues. im fairly sure only very early production conquests and starions can do this. This is when i realized that i had a brand new head, and heavy duty valve springs, and the upgraded "thicker headgasket", every bolt had a check paint mark, dropped the pan and same thing with the same paint and everything felt tight, leading me to believe this motor was rebuilt right before i got it. the head was squeeky clean. i got the jve kit in and while i was away my dad put the sproket back on and stabbed the dizzy, when i got back was time to time the dizzy and tweak it. car ran ok after words but i never thought it ran just right and the car would over heat sitting in 1min or more traffic and was almost pointless to drive unless i was hwy cruising. so i have my buddy time the car while im gone at work and i drive it home and its on kill mode and running better then ever. i pull into my driveway about 20 mins down the road and its dusk and i noticed glowing coming from my engine bay, pop the hood, and my turbo header is glowing red/ orange hot. i found out the hard way and almost blew my car up that i need to do everything myself and by the book. so i time the car by the service manual with the vacuum adv unplugged at 10btdc. ever since car has ran pretty ok but still would over heat. so i decide to redo the whole coolant system, new water pump,hoses, 160* thermostat, and a thicker aluminum cxracing radiator. still would over heat. untill i dumped a bottle of water wetter in the radiator and since hasnt broke the temp of the thermostat ive ran, i recommend that to anyone witha hot quest. i also did 2 12" slim fans on the back pulling and tied in the ac fan to push. absolutely fixed my overheating in oklahomas 105* days. now ive got everything working good and staying cool i blow the stock turbo seals out so replace the cartridge with kinugawas stock replacement. it actually has done very well and havnt had issues boosting on it or having irregular temps it stays nice and cool with the motor. i received the car with a catless down pipe and i had the secondary cat deleted so now its straight piped to a muffler. ive replaced 95% of the vacuum lines as most were original but i will note the secondary box was deleted. but still had vacuum lines that tie back into the tb vac lines to the sensor. i deleted the egr valve, but it still has the top vac port routed with the thermo sensors etc, the bottom port is blocked off and the sensor is still plugged in, the secondary air control sensor is still plugged in and a vac line running into a junction with the thermo sensors and egr/ vac adv to the first port of the tb. second port is capped, third is for my bov, lower goes around engine bay for cruise etc already replaced, top one goes to my pressure sensor and guage. i should note the car already has new injector clips, ive dropped the tank and replaced the pump and filters, tank looked good. ive rebuilt my tb properly. replaced the alternator with the best i could get, my voltage guage reads just over the middle line on the guage but hasnt given me problems. my cars struggled with oil pressure or at least what the guage tells me. at warm idle its at 1/4 on the guage, cruising it will be a tick over 1/2 on the guage. but i dont know if the guage is 100% accurate either. ive replaced all my fuse links. the ignition is brand new inside with a working hks turbo timer wired up,msd masterblaster2 coil, new plugs/wires,newer dizzy not brand new but not oem. has a 3 wire o2 but only 1 wire is connected and it looks poorly connected. it also had a safc under the gloved box with wires everwhere but not hooked up and working. just did the oil pan gasket and not sure where i could be losing oil pressure. all of that info is to ensure alot of this car has been touched and 85% of my car has brand new parts on it to assess my wierd issue about a month or two ago my quest decided to die with medium braking/ turning into a parking lot, clutch in no throttle. well over the course of a month it got worse. if im going 5-10 mph and lightly use the brakes or turn it wont die or if i keep my revs up to fight it stalling. its like just the right amount of braking at the right speed while off throttle it just kills itself immediately. medium hard braking it will instantly die, if you gentle on the brakes you can kind of regulate the stalling. so i think maybe a tps isc reset is in order. well at the same time my cars stopped over heating so i decide to put in a 180* thermostat and bring it closer to oem. i do the thermostat no issue. i saw i could problably simplify my vac lines a bit from how they were so i took the vac adv off the t it was on tied with the thermo sensor and sacs and egr sensor and give it its own line to the first port and put the rest of that junk on the second port and run my bov its own line to the third port. i reset the tps and isc and got out for a drive. it idled better and drove smoother...... until i got to the first stop sign where it immediately fell on it face. i start it back up and continue on my prarie nurburghring and then it starts sputtering like crazy once it hit boost. like it was missing really bad. then it would go away and absolutely haul balls. when it would do a decent pull it would run the best ive felt the car but the other 2/3 pulls it would misfire like a machine gun in wouldnt budge. really weird as ive never had this issue with my car before. so i limp it to my shop and of course it died every time i needed medium brakes. i start thinking vacuum for some reason so im inspecting everything and all looks ok i replaced the firewall line for good measure today because i never did before. no fix. my boost gauge is show -12-10 something like that right in between 7 & 14 even when cruising making me think vac is a problem so i take carb cleaner to all my connections and i dont find any vac leaks, so then i pull my plugs and they look great! i put the dizzy line back how it was and put all that back on port 1 and capped 2 and leftbov on 3rd port. im truly running out of ideas and i have the only starquest ive seen in oklahoma so there is barely anyone that knows jack about these so im very hesitant to take it to someone i generally do all the work on my cars like clutches and diffs etc im not shy of hyard work and i have the tools. any help is appreciated thank you guys!

Info Provided by: wrngwae So these are the correct ones that fit the adjustment tube correct? i keep getting the tie rods that are wrong no matter what place i order them from. Details Name Unit Price Quant. Total Front Outer Tie Rod End - Turbo Part Number: MOOG-ES3005RL $27.18 $54.36 http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/images/delete.png Inner Tie Rod End - Passenger Side Part Number: MOOG-ES2428R $39.27 $39.27 http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/images/delete.png Front Inner Tie Rod End - Driver Side Part Number: MOOG-ES2197R $24.50 $24.50 http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/images/delete.png Sub Total: $118.13 Shipping Estimate: 3-5 Day - Ground Shipping Compare rates: 2-3 Day Domestic - 6-10 Day International Air Shipping Compare rates: 1 Day - Overnight Shipping $9.99 Country: Zip: Grand Total: $128.12

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/IMG_7115_zpsa4d2ae31.jpg http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/IMG_7116_zpsc87ccab2.jpg http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/IMG_7119_zpsd1d9defc.jpg self amalgamating tape http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/IMG_7128_zpsf0044972.jpg electricians tape to keep it from being torn off when pressing it through the firewall grommet http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/IMG_7124_zps60ea779c.jpg took my column out, window welded the worn coupler, repaired boot, and put an additional spring on adjusting arm to prevent it from coming loose all the time hope this is useful

Links provided by : Ashybone Here are more examples: http://www.starquest...k http://www.starquest...k http://www.starquest...k This is the method I was thinking of.... http://www.starquest...240 +rack +swap Not what I'm looking for but good info... http://www.starquest...240 +rack +swap THIS IS IT!!!!!!!!!!!!! THIS IS THE ONE I WAS TALKING ABOUT AND LOOKING FOR FOR THE PAST 2 DAYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! http://www.starquest...ap#entry1169923 Ok, I'm good now lol.

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/steeringcolumnjointcover_zps4d58a0d5.png following kev's steering column rebuild guide -> http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=131612 but the part circled on the diagram ther was cracking a bit, and ripped on dissasembly any clues where i can find part numbers? tried googling without result thanks in advance, internet car people - of the internet Aaron

SOLD!!!! I pulled this setup out of an 87 Starion a while back, and I have no use for it, seeing as I have an 88 Quest. I've already installed one of my steering overlay kits onto it, and I also cleaned all of the button internals with contact cleaner. I even polished the horn button so it's glossy as opposed to flat Also there are no broken pins on the rear of the button. http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC02781.jpg http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC02780.jpg http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC02782.jpg First $50.00 (+ $5 shipping USPS Priority Mail, and I ship fast!) takes it, make your steering wheel look like new again! Paypal is: natallica@comcast.net Thanks Guys. -N8

So when I bought my Conquest, the steering wheel was turned slightly to the right whenever I was driving straight. Took my car into Pep Boys ( Regret), to get 4 new tires and an alignment done. After the alignment, the steering wheel was now slightly to the left whenever I was driving straight. So I took my car back to them to do a re-alignment. After 2 hours them trying to re-align the car, and me waiting around, they concluded that they wouldn't be able to align my steering wheel with the re-alignment, due to the OE tie rod setup. After realizing that they had put the wheels on backwards (Front to Rear, vice versa), I now question their competence on the matter and want to seek out a second opinion. Shouldn't an alignment fix this issue? Or do I need to physically move the steering wheel a notch over?

Hello all, I need a Steering center link for my 1987 wide body conquest. I live in N. Va zip code 20148.

Im looking for the following: Front crossmember (the one that supports the engine) Sterring center link