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This thread is for rebuilding your heater box and blower motor assembly. Have to add my disclamer: Please note: I am not a mechanic who works on cars day in and day out! I don't have an unlimited supply of specially tooling! I am an auto enthusiest/backyard mechanic like the majority of us on this site. I've done my best to document how I performed this particular rebuild using standard hand tools and the factory service manuals as my guideline. If you see something in error, please respond via PM. If you see something that may be performed in a simpler fashion, again please respond. First and foremost: YOU NEED THE FACTORY MANUALS FOR ALL REBUILDS! Parts required: Open cell foam of .13" and .25" thickness. See suggested part numbers that I used in thread. Small piece of 3/4" heater hose and some hose clamps As always, any replacement component for an item found bad during the rebuild. Tooling Req'd: This rebuild was performed with just basic hand tools with exception of the following: 110V to 12V power convertor. Used to test electrical components out on your workbench Vacuum pump - hand held Consumables: Green Grease: Doesn't have to be green, I just like it...but you want to use a grease suitable for bearings/axles for the internal components of rotating assemblies. Lithium Grease: I use lithium grease for all of the joints that aren't continually used as well as the joints that are open to the cabin of the vehicle....for the simple reason that lithium grease doesn't have much of an odor. Loctite 3M General Trim Adhesive kev Edit 11/5/2014: Lately I have been receiving many requests from club members asking if I would consider rebuilding their parts per the steps shown in these ‘how-to’ threads. Although I am humbled at your trust in my abilities to rebuild such critical parts of your vehicle, I respectively have to decline any such requests. With a family of four, a demanding career, and just the normal responsibilities in everyday life, I have difficulty in finding time to work on my own project vehicles much less take on additional work. However, I encourage you to review the thread in detail, try to gather the required parts and tools, and attempt to rebuild the items on your own. My goal in developing these threads was to give members the encouragement to perform these component rebuilds at home while gaining valuable experience, saving some $, and simply having fun with the hobby. I hope by sharing this information and by including my own trials and mistakes along the way, help to achieve these goals. Regards, kev

The following thread is a step by step instruction on rebuilding a conquest/starion rear differential and torque tube. Please note: I am not a mechanic who works on cars day in and day out! I don't have an unlimited supply of specially tooling! I am an auto enthusiest/backyard mechanic like the majority of us on this site. I've done my best to document how I performed this particular rebuild using standard hand tools and the factory service manuals as my guideline. If you see something in error, please respond via PM. If you see something that may be performed in a simpler fashion, again please respond. Background: This particular rebuild was to freshen up a stock 88/89 differential. The differential shown in the 'assembly' portion of this thread was pulled from a junkyard over 15 years ago...from a low mileage car. It was disassembled over 10 years ago and placed in storage. The 'disassembly' portion of this thread consists of an 87 differential from one of my former daily drivers that is shot (and I'll prove it in this thread)....I simply took it apart to gather parts (shims), make a tool , and photograph the disassembly for creation of this thread. For the assembly, I retained the stock gear ratio ring/pinion in its original carrier. However several 'new'/'borrowed' parts were used on the rebuild including the spline coupler, shims, etc. However, the steps in this thread are applicable for gear ratio swaps...I'll try to differentiate what additional steps would be required during the writeup if you were swapping internals (new ring/pinion) to the carrier. First and foremost: YOU NEED THE FACTORY MANUALS! If you do not have the factory manuals, get them. They are downloadable on several starquest sites and are also on ebay constantly for a very low price. Parts required: Please follow the thread to list the required parts for this rebuild. At a minimum you will need all new bearings and seals. You may need the appropriate shim kits, as req'd, during the rebuild. Follow along to determine what you will need and why. Tooling Req'd: This rebuild required several specialty tools including even custom made tooling. Read thru the write-up to determine what tooling you will need to perform your rebuild. A variety of pullers will be required at a minimum, see the photos on the pullers I used and make a determination on what you will need as a result. There are many different ways to skin a cat in terms of removing the old bearings/seals. If you have access to a shop press, then you will be best off. I mixed the use of a shop press and several different (even homemade) puller types for this particular rebuild. Note: I've also literally cut bearings off with a dremel tool in the past - obviously you need to be very carefull you don't cut thru the bearing and into the pinion or gear carrier if you go this route. IMPORTANT: Note the LACK of air tool usage in this rebuild! I own a very high cfm compressor and high torque impact drivers. I did NOT use any of these tools on the differential rebuild, even during disassembly! The differential is one of the most important parts of a vehicle's drivetrain. Care is to be taken during it's rebuild. I don't like the unpredictable response of impact guns. Don't get me wrong, impact guns have their purpose but not for rebuilding a rear differential. This rebuild is conducted with the aide of hydraulics and lever arms - both providing a smooth and controllable method of assembling or disassembling a joint. kev Edit 11/5/2014: Lately I have been receiving many requests from club members asking if I would consider rebuilding their parts per the steps shown in these ‘how-to’ threads. Although I am humbled at your trust in my abilities to rebuild such critical parts of your vehicle, I respectively have to decline any such requests. With a family of four, a demanding career, and just the normal responsibilities in everyday life, I have difficulty in finding time to work on my own project vehicles much less take on additional work. However, I encourage you to review the thread in detail, try to gather the required parts and tools, and attempt to rebuild the items on your own. My goal in developing these threads was to give members the encouragement to perform these component rebuilds at home while gaining valuable experience, saving some $, and simply having fun with the hobby. I hope by sharing this information and by including my own trials and mistakes along the way, help to achieve these goals. Regards, kev

Ok, here is another how-to thread. This one is a simple rebuild but the results are pretty impressive. I tell you what, rebuilding this column resulted in a noticable improvement in the drivability of the vehicle. The wheel turns so smoothly...it is like driving a brand new car! Have to add my disclamer: Please note: I am not a mechanic who works on cars day in and day out! I don't have an unlimited supply of specially tooling! I am an auto enthusiest/backyard mechanic like the majority of us on this site. I've done my best to document how I performed this particular rebuild using standard hand tools and the factory service manuals as my guideline. If you see something in error, please respond via PM. If you see something that may be performed in a simpler fashion, again please respond. First and foremost: YOU NEED THE FACTORY MANUALS FOR ALL REBUILDS! Enough said. Parts required: None for this rebuild...unless of course you find a worn out part. Number one worn out item in the column assembly: Steering Coupler. Number two: Steering Coupler boot. Both are NLA by Mitsubishi and there are no aftermarket replacements. I have heard a member say that he was able to use an off the shelf bellows boot from another vehicle to replace the steering coupler boot, but he didn't provide the part number. So you may be hitting up some junkyards and/or searching on here for a good used coupler/boot, as req'd for your rebuild. Tooling Req'd: This rebuild was performed with just basic hand tools with exception of the following: Steering Wheel Puller; don't dare try removing the steering wheel without the proper puller....these pullers cost $10. External Snap Ring Pliers: I consider this a basic hand tool but will include it here Magnet: One of those retractable magnets used to pick up dropped bolts in your engine compartment works great for this rebuild Dremel tool with small grinding stone: this is a contingency only...but I had to use it, see details in the thread. Consumables: Grease...I use two types of grease for this rebuild Green Grease: Doesn't have to be green, I just like it...but you want to use a grease suitable for bearings/axles for the internal components of the steering shaft Lithium Grease: I use lithium grease for all of the joints that aren't continually used on the column as well as the joints that are open to the cabin of the vehicle....for the simple reason that lithium grease doesn't have much of an odor. Permatex: Or any type of glue to adhere a rubber plug to the aluminum outer sleeve of the column Note: I was rebuilding two columns at the same time when these photos were taken; one for my daily driven CQ and one for the CQ I'm restoring. So you may see some minor differrences between the photos due to there being two columns. Sorry if that is confusing. kev Edit 11/5/2014: Lately I have been receiving many requests from club members asking if I would consider rebuilding their parts per the steps shown in these ‘how-to’ threads. Although I am humbled at your trust in my abilities to rebuild such critical parts of your vehicle, I respectively have to decline any such requests. With a family of four, a demanding career, and just the normal responsibilities in everyday life, I have difficulty in finding time to work on my own project vehicles much less take on additional work. However, I encourage you to review the thread in detail, try to gather the required parts and tools, and attempt to rebuild the items on your own. My goal in developing these threads was to give members the encouragement to perform these component rebuilds at home while gaining valuable experience, saving some $, and simply having fun with the hobby. I hope by sharing this information and by including my own trials and mistakes along the way, help to achieve these goals. Regards, kev

I noticed that the pictures no longer appear on the power steering box rebuild thread over in the S.O.S. forums. So while I was rebuilding my power steering box last week, I had my camera handy and snapped some photos during the process. Please note: I am not a mechanic who works on cars day in and day out! I don't have an unlimited supply of specially tooling! I am an auto enthusiest/backyard mechanic like the majority of us on this site. I've done my best to document how I performed this particular rebuild using standard hand tools and the factory service manuals as my guideline. If you see something in error, please respond to the thread. If you see something that may be performed in a simpler fashion, again please respond. First and foremost: YOU NEED THE FACTORY MANUALS! If you do not have the factory manuals, get them. They are downloadable on several starquest sites and are also on ebay constantly for a very low price. Also, the parts manual was of help on this rebuild. I found it easier to read and follow in regards to all of the o-rings and seal rings in the box. Download the 'STEERING' parts manual and print out the two sheets (one cartoon, and one parts list) for the steering box. Mark up this sheet during your dissassembly to aide reassembly. Parts required: Mitsubishi Seal Kit, MB553348.....This use to be under $50....I paid over $120 for it last month!!! Not sure why the price ramped up...hopefully because there is a demand for it. That would actually be a good thing because it keeps it available. The worst thing is that Mitsu would list it as NLA and we would be screwed (such as the steering coupler, coupler boot, and so many other specific parts for our vehicle). Tooling Req'd: This rebuild was performed with just basic hand tools. See the photo below. In going thru my photos I think I missed a couple simple tools in this particular image: torque wrench for 10 ft-lbs, flathead screwdriver, 17mm wrench or crescent wrench, bearing/seal driver (or some properly sized sockets to install a ball bearing and oil seals). From the picture below: the following 'specialty tools' are required: A wrench big enough to open to 2.75"...I used a 24" pipe wrench (it only loosens tightens a jam nut). A spanner wrench to fit in the holes of the top cover (I used the spanner wrench from my angle grinder...it was a sloppy fit but there is hardly any load on the top cover during removal/install). A pitman arm puller...the hardest part of this job was pulling the pitman arm. The number one set of tools required for this rebuild: kev Edit 11/5/2014: Lately I have been receiving many requests from club members asking if I would consider rebuilding their parts per the steps shown in these ‘how-to’ threads. Although I am humbled at your trust in my abilities to rebuild such critical parts of your vehicle, I respectively have to decline any such requests. With a family of four, a demanding career, and just the normal responsibilities in everyday life, I have difficulty in finding time to work on my own project vehicles much less take on additional work. However, I encourage you to review the thread in detail, try to gather the required parts and tools, and attempt to rebuild the items on your own. My goal in developing these threads was to give members the encouragement to perform these component rebuilds at home while gaining valuable experience, saving some $, and simply having fun with the hobby. I hope by sharing this information and by including my own trials and mistakes along the way, help to achieve these goals. Regards, kev Update 3/26/2015: See post #17 and beyond. New info added.