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Over the past few years I've reconfigured quite a few items on my car and now have some extra items I no longer need........ Intake manifold was run on the car for 2 years with me in addition to the 2 prior owners of the car. The manifold was originally built by quest925 ( http://www.starquest...topic=58298&hl= ). It has had some modifications along the way. Firstly at some point the throttle body was welded to the manifold. Secondly a the rear coolant port was opened up in order to flow to the heater core. The original paint had gotten pretty bad from heat/chemicals so I cleaned the majority of it off. Other bits: throttle body is a 65mm BBK for a 86-93 5.0L mustang, works with stock throttle cable, uses an inline thermostat housing (not in photos but will supply with intake). Manifold made good power and was very streetable. I would recommend the throttle body be cut off and a different TB put on. Like ALL BBK throttle bodies it suffers from vacuum lock at small throttle openings. http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g428/sq_spoon32/P1010049_zps90955cd3.jpg http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g428/sq_spoon32/P1010050_zps42efa360.jpg http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g428/sq_spoon32/P1010051_zps550f42fc.jpg http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g428/sq_spoon32/P1010052_zpsaf8afa3b.jpg Also for sale is an EDIS setup excluding the VR sensor and trigger wheel. EDIS module was purchased new and has less than 1000mi on it. Coil pack is a high discharge unit from ACCEL. http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g428/sq_spoon32/P1010053_zps1e1fee9c.jpg http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g428/sq_spoon32/P1010054_zps16b9ba37.jpg Asking 350$ for the manifold and 70$ for the EDIS components. Will consider offers. Thanks, --Eric

When driving on the expressway Temp is about 190 to 200 Temp in stop n go traffic is about 205 to 210 90 degree day. I have 180 TStat 185 fan switch sensors fans work fine and are new. 3 Row radiator Engine runs strong. Really only thing left to change is to Rebuild the t body. Maybe a bad head gasket? No leaks of any kind. Kind of at a loss

i just thought this was some good information for those looking for a better Radiator Cooling Fan. with some ingenuity you could get this to work. many different Volvos have the same fan motor even the same part number in some instances. 1992 Volvo have a much thinner shroud than the lincoln or taurus plus you CAN remove the fan from the volvo shroud and build your own shroud. here is a link to the information and vehicle list along with a great video on the relay setup the volvo uses. that would make installing the wiring a piece of cake. basically one fat red wire to + one fat black wire to - there are 2 remaining wires, one can go to a 185 sensor and the other to a 200 temp sensor to ground. or Our stock primary and secondary sensors. http://www.pirate4x4...pplication.html http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap575.JPG in the pic below Fat red is bat + Fat Black is - thin white and thin blue are for high and low fan speeds. connect to temp sensors connect low to a 185 sensor and a high to a195 sensor on the left Red and Green go to Fan. http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap576.JPG

PICS CAN BE SEEN ON CRAIGSLIST HERE: http://winstonsalem....4603413874.html DON'T HAVE PICS OF OIL PAN OR TURBO RIGHT NOW.... ALL PARTS FROM A 87. i have for sale a driveshaft, a radiator with fans and shroud, a oil pan, a BLOWN turbo (TURBO IS NO GOOD, can be rebuilt, fins are chipped and bearings are bad) and set of 4 je performance forged pistons(92mm). driveshaft has a little surface rust on the end, radiator does not have a cap, and pistons are good but rods are not, rods will come with the pistons anyway. do not have pics of turbo or oil pan right now but can get some and post or send.... located in lexington north carolina but can ship with payment via pay pal, or you can pick up if you live close or are willing to travel to me pricing: WILL NEGOTIATE ON MOST PRICING.... OR MAKE A DEAL ON ALL!!! driveshaft 100 radiator 130 pistons 250 turbo 25 oil pan 75 PRICES DO NOT INCLUDE SHIPPING!!

EDIT: PICS CAN BE SEEN ON CRAIGSLIST LINK BELOW IN THE REPLIES ALL PARTS FROM A 87. i have for sale a driveshaft, a radiator with fans and shroud, a oil pan, a BLOWN turbo (TURBO IS NO GOOD, can be rebuilt, fins are chipped and bearings are bad) and set of 4 je performance forged pistons(92mm). driveshaft has a little surface rust on the end, radiator does not have a cap, and pistons are good but rods are not, rods will come with the pistons anyway. do not have pics of turbo or oil pan right now but can get some and post or send.... located in lexington north carolina but can ship with payment via pay pal, or you can pick up if you live close or are willing to travel to me pricing: MAY NEGOTIATE ON PRICING.... driveshaft 100 radiator 150 pistons 250 turbo 25 oil pan 75 PRICES DO NOT INCLUDE SHIPPING!! i can be reached here or via text message at 3362253053

summitracing sells sensors that could work on our cars. I know these might be priced a little high but it is just another option for us to consider. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890017/overview/ Fan Control, Thermostatic, 185 Degrees On/170 Degrees Off, Sending Unit, 3/8 in. NPT, Each $29.97 and if you want to keep it stock here is the secondary sensor. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890018/overview/ Fan Control, Thermostatic, 200 Degrees On/185 Degrees Off, Sending Unit, 3/8 in. NPT, Each $29.97 just an option.

Anyone ever have to cut and weld in a new lower radiator support? I'm talking about the frame between the main frame rails. Mine is cracked pretty bad and I'm looking into fixing it. Looking online I'm supposed to drill out the spot welds, knock it off and replace with a whole piece. Due to the layers of metal I don't think it's feasible to attempt to fix the pieces in there know because as far as I can tell the layers are all cracked and would take forever to ensure I got all the layers correctly. Tried looking through the forum and didn't see a thread showing this, anyone know where there might be a good descriptive thread on how to do it? Either on this car or on a similar style framed car would work. I would like to do this once and efficiently. Also I am kind of in the market for the lower frame piece, cheaper the better as long as it's solid, thanks.

rods and JE .040 pistons $250 shipped http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o23/1skillz/null_zpsb7adf514.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o23/1skillz/null_zps5471db05.jpg radiator $100 shipped http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o23/1skillz/null_zps7ff70d01.jpg

I live in Texas now and my 87 Starion is getting hot. I just installed a refurbished A/C unit and now its getting even hotter. The temp gage is a little past the half mark. I changed the thermostat already. What can I do? Any feedback will help.

The oem radiator that was on my car had some obvious signs of leaking at some point - and decided to replace it with a griffon alum one the old one, is it worth having recored? was 500 for the alum one - as far as ive read online recoreing could cost more than that, for less cooling capacity any thoughts on what to do with the old one? thanks

Well I got the Starion sold to a good home and now it's time to clear out the remaining SQ parts. All parts fit/are from an 89 model. All prices are plus shipping. 2. GM MAF & Translator with Plug. Also includes a $50 K&N Air filter that could use a cleaning but is not damaged at all. All units work fine. $180 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/10b76405.jpg 4. Brand New Monroe Dynamics Front brakes, Set of 4 -- $25 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/bdf5feda.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/307bf664.jpg 5. A/C Compnents & Emission Components -- Price Negotiable. Don't need much here, just make it worth my time to pack and ship http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/992ef0ba.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/54b8d437.jpg Longblock motor with timing cover, water pump, and pulleys. --Paid $1500 to have it built. Still have all receipts --Rebuilt less than 30k miles ago --Was not beaten on and never saw over 14lbs of boost. Mostly saw about 10 --Balance Shaft elimination kit --Head was disassembled, decked, cleaned, and reassembled --New oil pump and bearings --Small oil leak from rear main. Simple to replace when out of the car --Includes oil pan and everything pictured Asking $600, will take offers http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/Untitled-2.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/Untitled-1.jpg 89 Manual Transmission --New Lucas gear oil, throw out bearing, and trans mount attached --Always shifted smooth Price: $220 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/6E6905D4-060C-4AB5-88C8-EA7379FAC775-38527-00002071FF6B3A4A.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/4DCF0B06-AA1A-4397-8DCD-2B7FFE1E02FE-38527-00002072093D4E57.jpg Radiator with fans and shrouds --Very recently recored --Fan motors work fine, thermosensors recently replaced --Never had overheating issues with it Price: $100 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/BCA889D2-D0E1-4C8D-AFD9-560BF314616A-38527-00002071D833CACF.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/A7403CD3-0AF9-4A34-8130-04FAF9500897-38527-00002071CDB792B6.jpg Rear wheels with almost brand new Yokohama AVID tires. --Less than 100 miles. Tires cost me $300. Asking $300 for tires and wheels. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/763EB2EA-F5D6-496C-AD27-76F6A72C2731-38527-00002072C381F931.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/AE099CA8-D829-4D73-9660-B7D55E0599CF-38527-00002072C049E581.jpg Stock Intercooler Price: $40 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/71439928-AC51-454F-A50C-0C8158FBE812-38527-00002071F58FCA7C.jpg Driveshaft with low mileage U-Joints. Price: $70 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/72966FE0-AB0F-480D-A654-9FDD323CE584-38527-00002071EA7F02DC.jpg

Gotta get rid of some of this stuff before I can get permission to buy new stuff. All prices are obo so if you dont like my price make an offer. Shipping is not included in the listed price. If you want more/better pics of something just let me know. I'm also willing to trade for upgrades. Hit me up with what you have and we'll see. -6 AN SS Oil feed, Coolant feed and return lines - $40 Oil feed line has 6AN fittings on both sides. Includes adapter for filter adapter side, adapter on turbo side is 1/8 npt Coolant lines use 6AN fittings at the turbo side, hose clamped on the other. Includes (2) 6an to 3/8 npt adapters. You will need metric adapters if using on a mitsu turbo, but you can use the npt adapters to tap the tstat and return if going full AN. I will also include an extra new 90* adapter (was going to make them full AN, decided to use a different color) http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/gallery/album_1127/gallery_7736_1127_63543.jpg 3 port wastegate - $10 only one available is the one on the left w/ the arm straightened. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/gallery/album_1127/gallery_7736_1127_59563.jpg Stock wastegate - $5 http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/gallery/album_1127/gallery_7736_1127_76848.jpg Chrome ABS hose (runs along firewall) - $10 http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/gallery/album_1127/gallery_7736_1127_24580.jpg

I'd prefer not to ship any of this stuff, but if the price is right I will ship the driveshaft and intercooler. Any of the larger parts I definitely won't be wanting to ship out. I'm located in Newark, DE for reference Here's what I got: 1. Longblock motor with timing cover, water pump, and pulleys. --Paid $1500 to have it built. Still have all receipts --Rebuilt less than 30k miles ago --Was not beaten on and never saw over 14lbs of boost. Mostly saw about 10 --Balance Shaft elimination kit --Head was disassembled, decked, cleaned, and reassembled --New oil pump and bearings --Small oil leak from rear main. Simple to replace when out of the car --Includes oil pan and everything pictured Asking $700, will take offers http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/Untitled-2.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/Untitled-1.jpg 2. 89 Manual Transmission --New Lucas gear oil, throw out bearing, and trans mount attached --Always shifted smooth Price: $250 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/6E6905D4-060C-4AB5-88C8-EA7379FAC775-38527-00002071FF6B3A4A.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/4DCF0B06-AA1A-4397-8DCD-2B7FFE1E02FE-38527-00002072093D4E57.jpg 3. Radiator with fans and shrouds --Very recently recored --Fan motors work fine, thermosensors recently replaced --Never had overheating issues with it Price: $100 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/BCA889D2-D0E1-4C8D-AFD9-560BF314616A-38527-00002071D833CACF.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/A7403CD3-0AF9-4A34-8130-04FAF9500897-38527-00002071CDB792B6.jpg 4. Rear wheels with almost brand new Yokohama AVID tires. --Less than 100 miles. Tires cost me $300. Asking $300 for tires and wheels. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/763EB2EA-F5D6-496C-AD27-76F6A72C2731-38527-00002072C381F931.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/AE099CA8-D829-4D73-9660-B7D55E0599CF-38527-00002072C049E581.jpg 5. Stock Intercooler Price: $45 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/71439928-AC51-454F-A50C-0C8158FBE812-38527-00002071F58FCA7C.jpg 6. Driveshaft with low mileage U-Joints. Price: $80 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/72966FE0-AB0F-480D-A654-9FDD323CE584-38527-00002071EA7F02DC.jpg Please PM me if you're interested in picking any of these parts up

The purpose of this How to is to modify a FAL twin fan setup from a 2G DSM to your factory Radiator. First off, This mod is strictly at your own discretion and should not be attempted unless you know how to use a dremel tool, cut off wheel, or a saber saw. Along with that, use proper eye and ear protection as you will create excessive metal shavings, dust and or sparks. With that in mind let's get started! As you all may notice, the factory Cooling fan assembly is bolted on to the radiator by 4 bolts per fan. Remove those fans and do as you will with them. Preferably if they are in good working order... keep them, another member might need them later on There are mounting ears on the ends of the radiator core which the sides of the fans fasten to, we will focus on this mainly. You will need to cut these ears off near flush in order to flush mount the FAL fan and take advantage of the built in shroud. The end product will be this. http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o113/solidboosttsi/IMG01047-20110913-2034.jpg If you cut too deep, don't be alarmed. As long as you dont cut into the brazing or a core tube you're still good to go. Once you've removed the mounting ears, clean up the edges with a file or any thing you have. Just be sure to make sure there are no sharp edges you can cut your self on or that can chafe wires. Next, Mount up the FAL fans like so It's just a few millimeters wider than the core but the moulding it comes with does the job to seal everything up. Mount it with universal fan mounting hardware from any auto parts store and clean every thing up! http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o113/solidboosttsi/IMG01046-20110913-1807.jpg Re install in the car and wire it up as you desire! I personally ran mine through a Variable temp Thermostatic switch that lets me set it to turn on at any temp I want. I hope this helped someone. Bag-O-Chips

Its hot out, we all know that. Its 110 +/- daily here in Texas. But, is the extreme heat causing my car to run at 210 degrees? With hardly any boost it ran at 210 degrees all day yesterday when I was going to the lake and what not. I went from a 195 to a 180 to a 160 degree thermostat and nothing seemed to change with warm up or running temp. The car just runs hot. Both fans run all the time. Radiator is full of coolant. I run distilled water to reduce corrosion. No condensor in front of it. I had the radiator rodded out last year around this same time but never ran it untill May of this year. I had it rodded while I was installing all my MPI stuff but never got the engine to run untill I trailered it to Phinko's. He had it running the next day... Ever since I got it back from Phil in May, the car has ran a bit warm. I just thought it was the cheap prosport gauges because of the high coolant reading and the prosport oil pressure gauge would never show anything and my prosport boost gauge was way off so I tossed em and I put in all sunpro and still high temps.(yes I have oil pressure) I was feeling the air flow from the fans the other day and noticed the air felt cold near the upper left of the radiator. Compared to the rest of the air flow from the fans, this one spot was COLD. So I am thinking it has been clogged in that area making the cold spot the whole time. Does this sound right? For the radiator to be clogged up top in that one spot?