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O.K guys, I'm going to be offering up Conquest and Starion replacement Taillight Gasket Kits. I've had these fabricated for us and I have many sets available (probably enough for all cars on the road ) I initally was going to handmake these and after 2 sets, it proved to be time consuming...and they looked liked poop (even though you won't see them). These new gaskets, are using my "slightly" better than original design (a tad wider and thicker than the OEM ones) these will be made using 3/8" high quality neoprene 'closed cell foam material', and professionally cut to shape. The product being used, looks like this: http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/640_11379_zps0cf5ba9c.jpg Here is a pic of my "prototype" that I created myself... up against one that resembles most if not all of the OEM gaskets, letting water in and turning our tails brown. The new ones definitely look a lot better, more professional and a better overall fit! http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC02942.jpg http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/4939f656-8d55-4994-92fc-fcc2fa4e7faf_zps6cb02f50.jpg http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/DSC03883_zps3588e0d2.jpg http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/DSC03884_zpsd1ff096e.jpg ...and they've already approved my file layout and design, everything is a go...except for the funds needed to get it rolling. That's where i need your help I've had a bunch of guys hitting me up about these for a few months now, so I figured it was time to pull the trigger on this. The total for these gasket kits will be $40 per pair shipped anywhere...and I mean anywhere, I know there are a few guys in Alaska/Hawaii, but I'll see that you pay the same shipping as everyone else so shipping will be included for this price. These arrived today!!!! My Paypal is: natallica@comcast.net Lemme know if you're interested. When using Paypal please provide "usernames and shipping address". It makes it easier to keep track of the orders. 1.gtxthunder paid 2.JohnnyWadd paid 3.BC_99 paid 4.BC_99 paid 5.BC_99 paid 6.BuGG paid 7.BuGG paid 8.aknorthstar paid 9.KIDMEN paid 10. shaggy_TSi paid

how to make a Gasket... i dont have punches like in the video but take your time and use an exact-o- knife and should be fine. Should i make this a Sticky or is it worth placing in the FAQ? http://youtu.be/_73LW9xx3_E

well the car just broke 170,000 miles. i hope to get another 170 out of it. i had a bad exhaust manifold gasket that needed to be replaced. well after cutting 2 thumbs and left middle finger i finally got the gasket on. LOL i bled for a day and a half on the right thumb. all new helicoils, exhaust gasket and turbo down pipe gasket. i had the exhaust manifold resurfaced, just got it all back to gether. never been so quiet. like a new car. AMAZING! i never had this cars turbo spool so fast. it had a huge leak for sure. the bottom half on 2 cylinders was missing on the old gasket. the car was that way since i picked it up. well i just drove around the block but it is like a new car. i have to retune the MAFT. big smile as it seems to instantly spool the 20G. next front end steering parts including the power steering pump rebuild.

My gaskets looked like crapola so I needed a fix. I scanned and pathed out on my PC my actual crappy gasket, and I made a template for these and I used an engraving machine at work to cut it out of PVC. Then, after tons of searching, I purchased some material that was a pretty darn close match to the closed cell rubber foam that Mitsu used (but this is a tad denser, which is good). After spending about 1.5 hours making them look good, I think I came up with a viable solution (until I find a material that is black, not that you's ever see it on the car). http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC02942.jpg http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC02943.jpg http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC02941.jpg http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC02939.jpg I may consider making a few more sets.... would any of you be interested. The way I have to do it is a bit tedious and takes some time, but I'd consider making them if I could get around $40.00 shipped per pair. Just a thought. Anyone interested? Lemme know what you guys think, I'm pretty sure these aren't still available through Mitsu. Thanks for looking -N8

I recently got myself a 1988 Chrysler Conquest, after a new fuel pump and all new filters and plugs it runs, it had a bad miss and it got worse after a few drives around the block. turns out it needed new gaskets all around the turbo. probably should have thought about that. ...anyway, i have it taken completely out already and i was wondering if there is anything i should do for the car while i have it taken out and everything (minus taking the turbo apart, i dont want to mess that one up) another thing, is there a place where i can find more of the METAL oil lines that feed through the top?

So, I stopped procrastinating and did the head gasket this weekend, probably about my 10th in 16 years. I guess I've got a few little things I always do that might be of help to somebody else. If so, cool. A lot of us have done these, but not everybody. >Get the head resurfaced if you have the time/money. That said, I've done it probably twice..not a requirement usually if the head is in good shape... but a best practice. >Use painter tape to label the sensor connections or whatever connections you can't remember or are confusing. (Pri inj, sec inj, top temp sensr, TPS,etc) Once you do that, pulling it apart will be less mentally stressful, although it's not really too big of a deal, only about 7 connections. After a few times you may not need the tape, LOL. >Leave the mainfolds on. Don't bust up your knuckles trying to get under the manifolds. Once the sensors, coolant lines, vac lines and throttle cable are loose, unbolt the downpipe and unbolt the ring clamp around the turbo cartridge. Tap the conpressor with a rubber mallet and it will pop off, leaving all the lines connected. There, saved you a big mess. Now the manifolds are your handles to pull the head. >Pull the valve cover and mark the distributor position with a marker across the gear and shaft. No need to get TDC, just make sure the lines line up when you put the dist back in. >When you pop the head off, have some cardboard ready to place it on. With the manifolds on it, the head surface won't touch the ground though. >Look at everything and make sure there aren't any cracks or damage you can see. Do a little detective work and see if you can find out where the gasket failed... and why. >Look for two round pegs, one at the front, one at the rear corner. These locate the head and prevent you from blowing a gasket in 5 minutes. If you don't see one, check if it got pushed into the head. >Get your sctoch brite and clean up the block surface and head. Go easy on the head, don't use something that will gouge or cut the metal at all. Keep crap out of the cylinders. >Avoid AJUSA metal gaskets. I know I know, but they are easy to blow if you ever get hot. Not from the cylinders, but around the oil/coolant passages. Go for the high quality FelPro composite gasket, it's less likely to fail that way. Hey, this is just my observation!