chief34

Thanks to both of you and especially to indiana! Thats exactly what kind of info I was wondering about. Stock boost gauge is getting ditched and we already tapped the intake tube in front of the throttle body to fix the timing advance reference.... Its definately a complain not being able to control timing. Thats gonna have to get changed for sure. At least you confirmed what I was thinking and that is that the retard isnt enough for real high boost.... Thanks for all the info! -Tim

I shouldnt complain because I was being condescending as well.... lol . My point is its not driving up hill that causes the headgasket to blow, but other factors like maybe pushing the car to hard up those hills, most likely with other problematic issues. Theres tons of reasons that could have contributed to it, but if the engine and everything was sound you could drive it uphill as much as you want. Sorry, this is getting of the actual topic and I was being an a**..... Good Luck getting her fixed man, thats a bummer for sure...

just a question, but why would driving uphill cause you to blow a head gasket?

Well it has a TEP cam in it.... I'm kind of at a crossroad now I guess without being able to moniter or control timing. I think were gonna get it to the dyno soon here to see what its got at 14psi...

Thats very helpfull! When you blew your engine where you monitoring AFR? How did you end up figuring out you were at or above 17 degrees? I think we are at the limit , or close to it, with the stock ignition because it seems to getting really hard to tune above 14 psi. I dont hear any knocking but I cant rule that out.... It seems like it starts cutting out and The AFR gets rich but if I try to lean it out a TINY bit I tries to pop and go like 13:1 .... So it seems like its gonna need EDIS to go higher or maybe some more Octane. 91 and octane booster might not be cutting it... Right now limited to 14 psi it seems to run really good. Full potential I am not quite sure, but it runs hard. To me it sort of seems like it should have more bottom end but maybe thats due to the huge turbo and 3" exhaust..... When the boost finally gets to full boost (at about 3500rpm) it starts to pull really good and hard all the way to about 6500 rpm....... I guess its time to get it to the dyno!

That prt# is right for the bearing..... Thats what I used in my T-5 tranny. The bearing works great and just slips on. Its a nice unit. On another note, its just a thought, but you should probably decide wether or not you want to go turbo Before you build a 347.... Its going to need lower compression than an N/A engine to be most effective. Just my 2 cents. Godd luck with the project.

I really appreciate the replies guys.... Let me just get this staright with everyone for the last time.........I understand that the stock gauge isnt perfect. We are using a mechanical gauge to tune the car. For now we want to keep it clean and stock looking inside. It would be nice to have the stock gauge working right now because its only pushing 14 psi. If ANYONE actually knows why this wouldnt be getting signal and what it uses to make its calculations, I would love to hear from them. Also, if there is anyone out there that is actually pushing 20+ psi and using stock ignition I would love some imput from them as well. It seems that the 500 hp guys are like phantoms when it comes time to ask for help. This car should be making 500 plus eventually... Does anyone actually know how many maximum degrees of retard the dizzy can pull under boost? " Technology" ... I know thats how timing is supposed to work on the stock car, thats exactly why I am going to route it that way.... The only difference will be that at part throttle and cruising the timing is probably going to be more advanced than the stock timing would be because this car pulls major vaccum and its not gonna be through a ported vaccum port. I still dont think that will be an issue because its only during part throttle and cruise. Again thanks for the replies, I Know everyones trying to help.... Its so hard to find actual specifications for these cars, lol.... Its like its classified or something :character0285: -Tim

Ok , thats kind of what I figured with the gauge.... So the only other thing is, what kind of boost are you running? This car seems to be running great at 14 psi..... The only thing right now is the vaccum advance on the dizzy is hooked up to a full vaccum port on the magna intake and is making the idle waaay advanced like 36 degrees or something..... So we are going to hook up the VA line before the throttle body so it wont see any vaccum at idle but it will see some at part throttle and light loads. Also under boost it will still retard. Is this how you have yours? By the way, thanks for the replies guys...

Ok sorry, but there is a little confusion here. The haltech is running the Fuel only. The stock computer is running the timing through the Distributer and the igniter. We are using an aftermarket boost gauge for tuning purposes, but I am worried that the igniter is not working correctly due to the stock gauge not being hooked up correctly. Plus since the car is only limited to 14 psi right now it would be nice to use the stock gauge for now.... Does anyone have First hand knowledge of this little problem right here? I scared to up the boost to 20 without knowing.... It seems to be getting touchy to tune above 14 psi. I have a feeling it is timing related.... By the way, I'll get some pics on here real soon, because I know there is probably some people who want a visual....

We have the Mpi finished and it is running pretty damn good BUT.... It has - Fully built motor, with Fully ported head yada, ,yada ... (Everything literally possible you can buy for it...) - 750cc Trilogy injectors... - Magna intake....... - Haltech ECU......... (fuel only) - T-70 Turbo - 3" exhaust - Giant intercooler... Right now I have it tuned to right at 14 psi and it seems to be running really good.... The goal is 25-26psi. Here is my first question.... How the "F" does the stock boost gauge work? I have searched and searched and cant find any info on it.... It worked before the install. We must be missing something. We are running a map sensor, is there something that is missing for the stock gauge? like maybe the boost solonoid that used to be there with the air filter, or??? I hope somone knows lol ... Secondly, We are running the fuel with the haltech and using the stock ignition for timing. I am a little worried about timing... Is this going to be ok? I know folks do it but I am wondering if it can pull enough timing under boost since the stock car was only made to run 10.5 psi.... So what happens at 20 or 25 psi?? Do we have to upgrade to DIS in order to go more than 14 psi? I appreciate any help guys!! We cant wait to get this thing to the dyno Gotta get this timing stuff straightened out.....