Munkee

Sure. First post says all prices are OBO so shoot me an offer.

bump for some pics. still working on the rest. busy week/weekend. Im still trying to find a box that will fit the struts then I will get shipping info for you guys. Didnt expect them to be the first item off the list.

Its one thing after another on this car. I finished up my D2 install and had the car back on the road for a week, and now this is back. I noticed for the last week or so the voltage meter was reading around 10~11 volts w/ the lights on but car still started and ran fine so i wasnt too worried. Yesterday it started up at around 9 volts. got a little worried but i got to work w/o a problem. ran to lunch, still around 9v but got to lunch and back no issue. left for the day and again around 9. turned on the lights and voltage dipped to around 8. Lights seemed dim but everything still ran, i just hoped it would get me home. About 20ft into my trip the volt meter jumped back up to around 10v so i figured maybe a loose connection going in/out. Well after about 10 min into my drive, at a stop light, suddently i see the volt meter dip to 9, then 8, then below, then the car sputtered and died. I pulled off to the side and checked my connections. everything seemed ok. I had my volt meter in the car and tested the battery and showed around 12v. Tried to crank the car but no dice. Like a weak/dead battery. After messing with a bit more I was able to crank the car, but as soon as i popped the lights the car died. finally had to get towed home. tested the batt again and still reads at around 12v. I've only had about 15 min or so to look over the car today but I have tested my fusible links and all look good w/ 0 resistence. tested the main fusible link on the batt and got the same. The connectors going to the fusible link box seem ok but I have not disconnected and checked them internally yet. The battery connectors look pretty crappy so I'll be getting new ones today. The grounds looked solid but old so i may redo those as well. If that doesnt help, looking at rebuilding the charging harness next, and pulling the alt to get tested. any suggestions?

Selling the stuff left over from my D2 install weekend I no longer need. Paypal preffered. I will try to get pics up as soon as I can. All prices OBO + shipping Coilovers - SOLD D2 rear pillow ball top mounts - $100 Replaced w/ MK1 adjustable camber plates. These are non adjustable. Never installed. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/gallery/album_1127/gallery_7736_1127_274758.jpg SHP stock springs - $20 http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/gallery/album_1127/gallery_7736_1127_10891.jpg Rear SHP struts - $20 Blown. Could use as a core for an MR2 upgrade. Front and rear strut isolators/insulators/bearings - $40 Looked to be in good condition, I will double check when I take pics Stock sway bars - $20

Just went and did a quick measurement on the car and found that the rear drivers side sits about a 1/2 lower than the passenger. Not sure how that happened as I had set the height before I took it in and each side was withing 1/8in of each other. the front still matches on each side within 1/8in. maybe if I raise the coilover another 1/2in it will put my camber back in line with the rest of the car? i just dont want to undo any of the work on the alignment i just paid for.

Finished up the d2 install and took the car in to get an alignment. Just picked her up and she rides much better, but I was noticing the results after I got home and had a question. My camber is set to -.5 on all wheels except 1. My rear driver side is at -1.2. I do have the MK1 adjustable plates on there and I told them so before they started. So im not sure if I should be worried about this or leave it as is. Ideally I would like to have all 4 tires dialed in the same. 2nd thought was on front caster. front passenger seems to be in spec (5.3) but the drivers side is off a degree (4.6). tech at the shop said it should be fine though. am i ok with like this?

price on exhaust?

Sorry, 5th day of this project, and I was working solo since about 6am on it. I was trying to do the 1 person method and it wasnt working, asked the wife to help, she pointed out I had been pumping the clutch pedal. Got them bled just fine when she pumped the brakes and i bled the caliper. Thanks for the suggestions but it was user overhead. Geez I'll be glad when this is all over...

Since I had to disconnect the brake lines to drop the rear, I am now in the process of bleeding them out. The car still has ABS though I dont think its working right anyway. I followed the FSM instructions but im not sure if this is going right. I started w/ the rear passenger, hooked up a small hose to a bottle and and let out the bleeder. Started pumping. Checked the line and I fluid w/ some air gaps. Went back and kept pumping, checked the line again and I saw a few bubble surfacing from the bleeder but the fluid in the line didnt seem to move. Pumped again and checked, fluid did not seem to move at all. Theres about an inch of fluid in the line coming up from the bleeder, but no matter how much I pump the fluid doesnt move. Closed it up, checked fluid level and it seemed fine, then went to the next line. Started pumping and same thing. About an inch of fluid comes up from the bleeder. No matter how much I pump it doesnt seem to move from there. I dont see any bubbles coming up from the bleeder but no amount of pumping seems to move the fluid down the line. Closed up the bleeder and moved to the modulator. This time no amount of pumping brings any fluid out of the modulator. After a while I closed that up. I have not done the front yet because Im still buttoning up the rear, but im not sure if this is normal or not and Im ok to move on.

I found the bolt. Funny thing is on the left side the bolt was there but not threaded in all the way so it wasnt an issue. on the right side i backed the bolt out and squirted some PB blaster down the bolt and after a few taps w/ a punch and mallet it shot right out the other end. Lucky for me I guess. Well the rear end is put back together and back in the car. As far as putting the ebrake cables back, am I going to have to pull the carpet to do this? I tried feeding them back through the holes but it feels like they're getting caught up on something and not going all the way up. I didnt have anyone in the car looking for them as I fed them since the car was up on stands and I was being paranoid seeing as I was the one under the car, lol.

new problem. How do you remove the bolt that goes through the lower arm and the hub? it seems to be jammed in there good. On the left we were able to use a center punch and hammer it out from one end, but on the right no amount of hammering seems to work. is there some special trick I'm missing? FSM doesnt seem to give much detail on it. And of course this is the last bolt needed to remove the arm. i can finish every single thing on the rear end except for this!

...how does one disconnect the parking brake cables? This is my first time doing this.

What did you guys use to cut through the old tube? My angle grinder only makes it about halfway through.

Thats odd, mine arent marked.

i believe caliber 308 has done it, but i thought i read that a few other members had done it also. Anyway, I was able to figure it out, i think. 1. Seperate the D2 top hat from the coilover (air gun) 2. Seperate the MK1 pillow ball mount from the camber plate by removing the 4 adjustment screws underneath (allen head) 3. Put the new collar, pillow ball mount, new nut on the coilover, then tighten up 4. Put the camber plate on, sliding over the nut, and align w/ adjustment holes and put your adjustment screws back in 5. (optional) replace adjustment screws w/ hex head bolts, because screwing these things back in w/ an allen wrench sucks one other thing though. Do the D2s go on a specific side? I dont see them marked right or left, but they dont look multidirectional either. Maybe it will all make sense when i pull the old ones out.

Um...actually meant to put this in the suspension section. Sorry. Feel free to move.

Getting ready to do this tomorrow but figured I would get some of the small stuff out of the way today. Took the top hat off one of the rear D2s and started installing the camber plate, but it doesnt seem to go on right. It seems to be off center and stops the top nut from turning after a certain point. I am using the lower sleeve and top not that came w/ the camber plate. Also, how to do you get it tight on there? I was able to get the D2 top hat off w/ an air gun but the MK1 plates are recessed so Im not sure how i could get a socket or wrench in there to tighten it all the way?

Pretty sure. The relay I pulled only had 2 contacts like the EL 12 unit i replaced it with. It's labeled MB183875, and it was the relay on the lower left of the relay panel which is what I saw in the pics posted in other flasher threads. Cranking has never been an issue. Sometimes if the car has sat for a few days the first crank is a bit weak but after that it usually cranks fine the rest of the day. The new links look legit to me. Looks like the ones shown in the SOS guides. Any way I can tell for sure?

Checked the links. 3 of the 4 look brand new. PO must have replaced them. They are the newer style w/ SS terminals and good heat shrink. Pulled the IGN link and tested w/ my voltmeter and got 0 resistance. It looks like the brown link and the black link on the battery cable are still older style. Probably look into replacing those. The terminals on the link box itslef could probably use a cleaning too. Looks like its time to start tracing back through the electrical system and cleaning contacts and grounds. Checked the battery again this morning after sitting all night, voltage still reads 12.5 at the battery w/ the car off. I guess I'm not too worried about it draining the battery. Just guess its kind of strange that replacing the flasher is actually revealing more electrical issues for me to work on.

i will have to look over the links when i get a chance. the thing that strikes me as strange is that the voltage has held steady at 12v (on the gauge) for the past 6 months, then after changing the flasher it dips another 1-2v. The battery was used from a friend but still strong. I've been running it for 6 months w/o any issues. another odd issue i noticed is that the sometimes the left blinker will not flash for the first 2-3 sec or so, then start blinking. Most of the time it works fine but every 3rd or 4th try it does this. the right blinker works fine every time.

So my volt meter in the dash usually reads around 12v. This scared me at first until a I took a volt meter and tested voltage at the battery and got around 13.5-14v. Figured the gauge was off. Ran this for a while now. Recently my blinkers stopped flashing. They would blink for a few seconds, then just stay on, hazards worked fine. replaced the flasher w/ an EL-12 unit yesterday. Tested and they seem seem to work fine. Went back out about 2 hours later to replace my wipers. Went to test the wipers and they would barely move. Noticed volts was reading around 9v. Tried to crank the car and it struggled but eventually turned on. Ran it for a bit and blinkers and wipers seemed fine. Started the car up this morning and it cranked. Drove to work and noticed voltage was reading slightly below 12v. blinker would drop it to around 11. Drove home and now voltage is reading around 11v. Turn signal makes it drop down to around 10. Tested voltage again at the battery w/ the car running and i get around 13v. Tested w/ car off and I get 12.5. I find it really odd that installing a new flasher would cause this but thats the only thing I changed since yesterday.

Time was an issue because I need to ask for time off to do the install. I work 7 days a week and I need to give a 2 week heads up to get time off. Problem is that Nov-Dec are black out months where I work due to heavy end of year processing. I can still get time off, but will have to beg my manager and maybe only for 1-2 days. Granted it shouldnt take that long to install, but I wanted to give myself some cushion in case something went wrong and I needed an extra day or 2 to get everything back together. Anyway, this comes into play because when I first ordered, I was expecting I would get them end of Sept. Plenty of time. Got told they were on back order but be in by the 8th, figured this would put them in my hand by 10/12-10/15 latest, still enough time. They finally shipped this morning so now I wont be getting them until mid next week. Which pushes my install time into the 1st week of Nov and screws my timeline. Time crunch aside, I really wouldnt be so upset if it wasnt for the way they handled it. There was a delay in the shipment but no heads up about it. I only found out because I emailed him AFTER the promised ship date and he just kept telling me "should ship soon" or "waiting on D2" or ignoring my email altogether. I asked for a refund at least twice, and he switches the status to "shipped" even though the item had not actually shipped. Then has the balls to tell me the extended delay is my fault because I agreed to a 3 week wait (which I didnt) and I chose a slower shipping method and I should have chosen air, which was never an option. When he called me prior to ordering he kept saying he had 1 in stock, so I figured this meant he kept them on hand. Apparently he was able to inspect the item before shipping and tell me about the paint chips. When he said they were now back ordered and he was expecting his shipment on the 8th, again, sounded like they were coming to him from D2, then shipping to me. If your gonna run a business be honest with your customers. Tell me your not going to make the promised ship date. Tell me your drop shipping to me. At least tell me "We're sorry for the delay but the order is on its way", not "you chose to wait the 3 weeks instead of having the air shipment so unfortunately these are some of the things that happen with freight shipments. " <---verbatim from his email Bottom line is, this guy is happy to take your money but has horrible follow up and customer service skills.

I know I had agreed to wait for a back order. I had agreed to 2 weeks. This is going on a month now. I did not agree to a 1 month back order. Not only that, it's the way they've conducted themselves before and after the transaction. Before they got my money they were all over me. Called to follow up on why I didn't finalize my purchase. Exchanged 4 or 5 PMs in a matter of 15 minutes when trying to close the deal. Even called again when I said I was having an issue w/ the checkout process. After my purchase? Nothing. I initiated all contact trying to get updates on my order. No follow up after the supposed ship date. Never giving me a straight answer on when the item would finally ship. Shifting blame to D2 then saying its my fault for the ship method I chose? Worst of all when I asked for a refund they send me a "fake" tracking number in an effort to shut me up I guess. What good does a tracking number do me if the item doesnt actually ship? My intent is not to "scare away" any vendors from the site. I've been trading emails with them since last week just trying to get my product or my money back. Even if it is D2s fault, they made the sale and need to take some responsibility. If they cant deliver on the item, update the customer, offer a refund, or at least an apology. I didn't even get that! Instead all I get is finger pointing and a fake tracking number. I'm sorry but it doesnt matter how many good transactions you've had in the past. We've all seen good companies go downhill even after an initially successful start. I certainly hope this isnt the case w/ JM. But in the world of retail, your only as good as your last dissatisfied customer.

Decided it was time to order a set of coilovers for the car. on 9/20 I started shopping around for the best price. Saw a post from JM offering $960 shipped but it was 2 years old. Went to the site anyway and checked it out. Cam out to around $1030 shipped. Got as far as adding it to my cart then backed out to take a bit more timeto bargain hunt. The next morning (9/21) Got a call on my cell phone (used when I registered the night before) asking if I was going to buy the coilovers. told them I was going to take some time to shop around. They said they only had 1 set left in stock and my order would be for those. I told them I would let them know by end of day. Got online here and had PMs from JM pushing to sell the last set of coilovers. He offered them at $999 shipped. I figured that was the best deal I was going to get so I placed the order that day (still 9/21). A couple days later I get an email stating that they looked at the last set and found chips in the spring coating. I could either take those as is or wait for a new shipment on 10/8. Of course I'm not going to take a damaged item, so I decide to wait. 10/8 comes and goes w/ no word. I email them on 10/9 to ask if my order shipped. They respond saying it should ship that day. I email again on 10/10 to see if it shipped (my order status still reads backordered). They respond saying they are waiting for confirmation from D2. I email again on 10/12 asking if they got confirmation from D2. No response. Emailed again on 10/15. This time fairly upset that I'm not getting a response. I basically demand that they ship my product or give a refund. Magically my order status changes to Shipped and I get a tracking number. I then get an email from them stating they told me there was a hold up w/ D2s freight shippment (they never did) that caused the delay, and it was my fault its taking so long because I agreed to 3 week wait (I agreed to a 2 week wait, and only because I didnt want a damaged item), and I chose freight shipment instead of air which would have been faster (there was no such option when I ordered from their site or when I was told they were on backorder). In addition, the tracking number given was not showing up in UPS's system. I emailed back, essentially explaining my displeasure with how they are handling this, and asking for follow up on my order. 10/16 I check the tracking number and it now shows w/ a status of "Ready for UPS". Essentially, they created the shipping label but UPS hasnt received a package to ship to me. 10/17 I check again, UPS is still waiting. This is 6pm MST (8PM EST) so I know they are not shipping today either. I am now going on close to a month waiting for them to ship my item. Meanwhile they have no problem coming into the FS forum and bumping their "Daily Deals" posts, but cant ship my order from a month ago? I have emailed them asking that they refund my money so that I can buy from somewhere else. I advise that anyone else looking for a set of D2s stay away from these guys. I'm now looking to buy a set on eBay rather than go through these guys. Worst buying experience I've had with an online company.

i got 2nd on the strut bars if it doesnt go through