sakergavin

Hi, I will run the GP until I have at least 10 sets. As for putting the bolts in from behind, it is possible but a lot more costly as each hole has to be drilled, tapped and inserted. The reason for supplying them as a kit is so people can apply the surface finishes they want to the front, as not everyone wants all of it polished or painted etc. Personally, I would rather not make things incredibly complicated for packing & shipping by offering to have this work done. Weight is approximately 7.5kg (16.5lbs) each. I say approximately because they were measured on my old rotary dial bathroom scales.

It's done and posted at http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=97118

I have now got available 17" OEM look alloy wheels. These are genuine 3 piece racing style wheels with a cast & heat treated centre and spun shells. The outer shells will come polished and the raised part of the centres will be machined as per stock. They will however come as a kit so people can add their own personal finishing such as powder coating, painting or polishing. The fronts are 8.5" wide and the rear 10" wide In both cases the measurement from the wheel mounting face to the inner bead is 4" (100mm) They are suitable for both street and track use. Prices are: 1-10 sets $650/wheel 10-50 sets $575/wheel 50+ sets $500/wheel This is a reasonable price when compared with: Jline $710ea Volk $738 ea HRE 1545 ea BBS 975 ea Fikse $770 ea Kinesis 1042 ea SSR $560 ea Work $790 ea I have fitted 225/45/17 and 255/40/17's which look too small.Measuring up it would be possible to fit 245's and 285's on depending how low your car sits. Pictures can be found at the other SQC thread on this http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=92618&st=120 as I can't figure out how to get my browser to post pictures! The deal is 50% deposit on order and the rest on shipping. Shipping cost will be notified once we have a zip code. Photo updates of order progress will be provided with a 10-12 week manufacturing time. Leave a follow up post or pm me if you want to order a set. For those who are interested the shells come in 1/2" width increments both inner and outer. I wouldn't go any wider on the inner due to how close the wheels get to the suspension already. Prices are $135 ea for shells up to 5" wide and $180 for shells over 5" wide. The inner shells on the front and rear are 5" wide leaving the outers at 3.5" and 5". Polishing is $30 per shell. After spending many months and much money getting these organised it will be good to see some happy customers!

As the site is running again and I now have prices I will post the GP info in a few hours when I get to my home computer. After so much time & financial investment it'll be good to have some happy customers!

Oh BTW,here are the pics I have already taken. Can someone give me guidance on how to post pictures? I tried using the insert image button but it kept telling me I had an invalid filemname format. Using the attachment upload button only gives 500k.. www.flickr.com/photos/8012954@N07/3912147648/in/photostream/ www.flickr.com/photos/8012954@N07/3911365621/in/photostream/ www.flickr.com/photos/8012954@N07/3912148776/in/photostream/ www.flickr.com/photos/8012954@N07/3912148382/in/photostream/ www.flickr.com/photos/8012954@N07/3912148776/in/photostream/ www.flickr.com/photos/8012954@N07/3912148556/in/photostream/ Thanks.

Hi, Sorry it's been quiet.I have gotten the OK from the DOT now, and some tires and taken pictures. I amnow just goingto do a CAD model of the wheels to show the offsets and I will post the GP. I have driven the car on them a couple of times & they seem really good. I should have gone with the wider tires as noted by some posters as there is still a lot of clearance available.( I went with 225/45/17 front and 255/40/17 rear) The outer lips of the rims are level with the inner lip of the wheel arches so with a lowered car I'd say the rims are about ideal on size if fitted with a slightly wider tire than I used.. Oh well. WhenI took the photos the suspension didn't compress again when I lowered the jack. I will try again tomorrow and try to get the proper look. Have fun

Hi, Sorry, not much has happened, been moving house. From reading the posts, it looks as if the best option is to go with selling them as a kit so people can do their own finishing prior to assembly. I will post the GP as a new thread with drawings for offsets and the pricing based on this in the next few days. I have now gathered some money to buy tires so once these arrive and are fitted I will post thse pix as well. The sealant seems to last forever. I have some 3 piece wheels from the '70's that still hold air. Thanks for all the good comments and feedback.

Hi, I have talked to the manufacturers about the idea of doing the grey bits in black and polishing the spokes. Doing the grey bits in any color and then machining the front face is entirely possible, but then polishing the machined bits is not really a happening thing. This is because all the polishing is done manually and it risks (guarantees) damaging the colored bits. ( and costs a bunch more) My intention was to have them all finished with a clear polyurethane so you wouldn't have to be polishing the lips all the time to keep them ultra shiny but if this process is left off it would be easy ,for those who want to, to polish the spokes while those who want them with the stock diamond machined look can have that. If they were going to be supplied with the recessed bits painted, then some sort of consensus would have to be reached on the color. There is also the possibility that I could get them powdercoated with a mirror finish powder after they have been assembled. There is also the possibility of supplying them all as an unassembled kit with assembly instructions, which would make the wheels cheaper and the shipping cheaper. This would allow people to apply their own flair to the finishing before assembly... Give me your thoughts and preferences. As to the question on whether they are strong enough for autocross. The answer is yes. They are made by a supplier who makes wheels for such things as Formula A/5000 cars, Lotus Elise & 211, and are an OEM supplier to a supercar manufacturer. Of course if you go banging them on kerbs or against the ground you are going to damage them! I haven't got a flatty to measure up for widths and offsets, but if you want to give me some they could be made. The price is the same regardless of width. At the moment only 17's can be done as the tooling for the 18's would cost another bunch of money and the machinery to make them isn't big enough to make them.

Hi,Still working on price. They are completely new wheels with heat treated centre castings and are a genuine 3 piece so can have other shells fitted to vary width and offsets. My car has been used to measure off for these and it has stock suspension. I have been alerted to the DOT taking an interest in the wheels so I need to get my paperwork in place with them prior to offering them as a GP. Thanks for all the comments!

Front side

Hi. I have taken pictures of the rims. I got the tire profile wrong on my last post, just a typo. It should have read 225-45-17 front and 255-40-17 rear as these are both the same diameter as the stock tire and thus retains the speedo accuracy. Also the front now I measure them are 8.5" wide not 9". Sooo.. the weights are approximately 7.5kg (16.5lbs) each. I say approximately because they were measured on my old rotary dial bathroom scales. The approximate distance from the wheel mounting face to the inner bead at both ends of the car is now 125mm (5") up from 100mm(4") on the stock rim. I did this using a couple of rulers and guessing at the material thickness. I definitely nedto try the fronts and check for tire clearance to the strut before having themmade this size. They may have to shrink 1/2". I must say they really look good on the car, like it really means business. Anyway, have alook at the pictures I have and tell me what you think. :thumbsup:

Sorry it has taken me a while to get back to this, but my job sent me to Australia for a while. I now have in my possession 4 new 17" original look Conquest rims. They are currently 17x10 & 17 x9, but once I try them with tires on, this may alter a little. My plan is to run 255-45-17 rears and 225-40-17 front. I did try a rear with used tyre I got from the tyre shop and it looked like it would be the idel fit with just the right amount of suspension and body clearance and yet filing out the guards nicely. I haven't really got a lot of money for tires at the moment having paid for all the wheel development, but I will post pictures of the wheels themselves this week and work on getting some tires on so I can photograph them on a car. I will also do a weight for them. Drive with a smile on your face!

Hi, I know the GP has closed, but does anyone have a spare set I could buy?

I am currently about 3 weeks away from offering a GP on 17" original look wheels. They are a 3 piece wheel with the original centre pattern made from 356.0 T6 aluminium. The shells come in 1/2" increments for inners and outers. I have a set of centres and shells made which are just awaiting final machining and surface finishing. Once this is done I will post photos of both the wheels and them fitted to my car and provide costs. Intention is to offer a price for less than 10 sets and a price for more than 10 sets. The manufacturing progress will be documented via postings with pictures. Once the go button is pushed (ie orders for more than 10 sets as I really don't want to do less than this) it takes about 4-6 weeks for them to make their way thru the process.

Thanks for that. It appears that it was the pickup coil in the distributor. When I used my new one in cojunction with my old module it all came back to life...

Yep plug is connected. I should be getting another ignitor box this week. It is off a flatbody 2l Starion rather than a 2.6, but hopefully it will tell me if that is the problem or not so I know what to get to fix the problem properly..

In summary: I have checked the spark by using the end of the coil lead. I replaced the ignition module and pickup coil in the distributor. I removed & cleaned the fusible links. I checked the continuity between dizzy and coil. One dizzy wire appeared to make a circuit with both coil wires. I checked the inputs to the ignitor as per FSM to find that the only the SG+ and SG- lines were the only ones not showing voltage like they are supposed to. Does the ignitor need to be plugged in and grounded when doing this test? I checked that the coil had power to both sides of it, which it did. I don't think it is the ignition switch as everyting else is getting power fine. Hopefully I will manage to score another ignitor to try in the next couple of days. Any other ideas would be most helpful. Attached (I hope) is a pic of one of my other toys before it was completed for your viewing pleasure!!

I can't get spark from my '87 TSi. It all started when I removed the fuel tank to get the rust stripped out of it to save on replacing fuel filters every few thousand miles. By the time this had been done my battery had gone flat when I went to start it. I connected my battery charger to not only charge the battery but also see if it would run the fuel pump to check for leaks. As soon as I turned the ignition switch on there was some rather odd noises like static from the radio, relays switching and the headlights went up & down. At this point I just left the battery to charge overnight then tried to fire the car up the next day. It refused to start so I started looking for why, It appered that at least some fuel was getting to the throttle body so I checked for spark as I had also replaced the plug leads and plugs while waiting for the fuel tank to come back. Much to my annoyance there was no spark at the plugs, so I checked and there was no spark at the coil either. At this point I dragged out my FSM and went thru the checklist for the ignitor/knock box. The only thing that seemed out of place from the ignition side of things was that there was no voltage come into the plug from the signal wires from the distributor. I checked and cleaned the fusible links to no avail. Also checked continuity from the distributor to coil. It appeared the one of the distributor wires did connect to both sides of the coil... Today I grabbed a distributor from an Astron head and fitted both the module and coil from it into my distibutor. Still no spark. The FSM may tell you how to do the tests but I find it is not very good at telling which bit is actually bad... Does anyone know if it is likely to be my old plastic cased ignitor or (please no) the ECU? Or???

If possible it would be good to get the Mitsi (MB) part number. Thanks

Hi, You can see the CAD models now at http://www.flickr.com/photos/8012954@N07/?saved=1

Yes these are a 3 piece design, as would the Starion replicas. I will post a picture of the CAD model for one of the other designs that are pictured so you can see how the correlation is. They are pretty much exactly the same, just different reflectivity.

No, don't have any pix of that wheel in the flesh as yet. Centres can be done any colour, my thought for the conquest wheels was to diamond cut the face as per stock provided we get more than 10 sets so I can cnc machine them. Price is the same no matter what width as per my previous post, although if there is only 1 set then the price would be $495 per wheel, dropping as volume increases. This includes painting or powdercoating the centre and polishing the outer shell.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8012954@N07/475327000/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/8012954@N07/475326996/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/8012954@N07/475326982/ Here's some of my current wheels.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8012954@N07/475327008/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/8012954@N07/475327002/

Try this one: http://www.pistonheads.com/include/popup.a...06-135049-4.jpg