breakquest

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Alright I am a little late on replying because I was just looking around. I am pretty sure I said try and get all the air bubbles out that you can. Then the rust won't come back for ages. I didn't think you had access to a welder so I didn't suggest it. I DO know about vacuum baggin and other ways of getting air and moisture out. This proffessor guy REALLY pisses me off. Oh look I'm smart-why else would my screen name be proffessor? let me come in here and show you how a pro-which would be me of course-show you how to do things since I might just be the smartest guy in the world. I could go on cussing and what not on here because i hate you now-but I think the best word to describe you from my view would be -- ummm -- dumba** Oh-and how is your repair doing project_demon?

I agree with artinist totally Anyone try making a boomerang? I make them all the time-always thinking about lift-pressure, and aerodynamics

Where are the pics?!?!?!?! C'mon I check this post just about every hour

I work with fiberglass a lot and it will definatly fix those holse right up. Just like he said go to your local auto shop but DO NOT get the woven mat. Get the thicker mat that isn't woven. If you want strength then you will be surprised at how strong this stuff can be. You can read the instructions on the back of the resin can but make sure you add a little more hardener if you aren't sure because too little and it takes days to harden. Anyways just grind all the rust and grind/sand where the fiberglass will be. Then buy a real cheap mid size paint brush. Mix resin/hardener and brush the resin on first ((this makes sure it is wet out on both sides and is strong)) then lay one cut piece of fiberglass and wet it out with the resin-then another layer-2 layers are strong enough but if you want 3 then go for it((the more fiberglass the stronger it will be)). If the hole is too big and the fiberglass starts to just fall through before hardening or sticking then put a piece of waxpaper under the hole and brace it to it with something--after the fiberglass hardens then the waxpaper will peel right off without sticking. Make sure you wet each layer real good-its better to have a lot of resin to make sure instead of having it break later. After it is dry you should be able to punch it as hard as you can and nothing happen. Where you sand or grind will tell how good it sticks. I fiberglassed my gas tank after cutting it open to clean it out and it still holds pressure Made my own fiberglass guage pod Fixed the lower lip on the starion and many other holes, deep scratches, etc. I am in progress on a fiberglass speaker box So I know what I am doing and if you follow what I said then it will come out great. If you have any questions then just ask

I am pretty sure its talking about the 2 other holes around it--not the one for the grommet--

What kind of resin did you use? How did you get such a smooth and unbumpy surface? I can see how you could hold compression on that one piece to get the perfect flat surface but not on the wing.

So its just an overlay? I have done a good bit of fiberglass work and I am in the middle of a fiberglass box to hold one 10" and fit snug where the spare tire went. I have always wanted to try making a mold for the rear wing or front lip and maybe even the bumper, so I could have a real carbon fiber piece and not an overlay. The only problem with that is if I mess up then thats a lot of fiberglass/resin and $$wasted. But you said you were going for looks-put pics when your done. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/734202

Looks like a boost guage from what I can see-I didn't want to have 2 boost guages so i had to replace the stocker But I don't really like where that is at-I have seen a post on one of those before and a lot of people on here were so-so about it I still haven't tried my idea because nobody seems to think anything of it (even though I used paint-you can still get the idea)

It would be fiberglass but I would use bondo to smooth out any imperfections

Computer got fixed. The gauge "design" is at the bottom of the link http://www.cardomain.com/ride/734202/1

I will put some pics up showing what I am talking about since nobody is replying. As soon as my computer stops being retarted (maybe it needs a new brain) .

I just want some feedback on this. I made a pod for my A/F gauge and mounted it on the a pillar. That is all the gauges I need. I also replaced the stock turbo gauge with a faze one. I was going to try a new type of gauge pod right on the dash mounted flush to the headlight and emergency flasher controls. I didn't want to try it because I do not want to drill any holes under the pod for wires. I am just like that-But I can tell a lot of you are not since you just bolt the big tach on the side there. Would anyone be interested in a pod like this? I bet I could get 2 gauges to fit in it also. Really I could get 10 to fit if I made it across the dash. But I hope you get what I mean. This wasn't the best explanation but if you get what I am saying then gimme some feedback. I want to see if this is worth making.

How much was the sewing machine? I guess I will just try tomorrow on the eclipse seats. That will be my How-To. I am much better at fiberglass work and bodywork but I would rather be able to do interior work. That was the fastest reply ever!

What kind of sewing machine do you have to do that? Heavy duty or average home use one? How much did it cost? I have tried minor interior things but nothing like seats. I have done headliner, door panel stuff, and just my gauges cluster (even though its not upholstery its still interior). Could you do a minor How-To? Just some info so I could try some stuff like that on an extra pair of eclipse seats that I have. What part of Alabama do you live in?