Bob1770

I agree, the factory bumper isn't that heavy, and cost versus weight savings is far from an advantage on that one. Likely why it never happened! Now, the air dam brackets, I could save members a lot by making these, but how many can I sell? Likely not enough to cover setting up the plasma-cam, let alone cover the initial cost of a sheet of SS. I don't think Shawn is here to rip members off, I just think that the demad is low. I could cut a lot of air dam kits out of a sheet, but how many do I really want to be stuck with, and for how long? Return is the bottom line here guys, at least(from what I have seen over the years), Shawn is involved in the building of his products, unlike other un-named, non-talented peddlers of products that are farmed out to buddies and local exhaust shops to make a profit off other peoples skills. Maybe I should go into the exhaust and pipe business, at least you know I would be building it, a true tradesman. The point of any and all of my posts is NOT to bash(at least not Shawn) people selling their products. I have nothing against people with skills trying to make a little extra money through a common interest, it's when the other talentless saps try to corner the market and take advantage of others that you here from me.

Boy, I had no idea that these things got that bad. I lost at least a couple pounds off my front end when all the rust came pouring out as I took it apart. The air dam brackets that Shawn sells in SS were almost non-existant, but I think $100 for a few small strips of stainless with a little tigging is way to much $$. I would like to see how these bumpers come out though, as mine isn't worth puting back on the car.

Has anyone done a complete conversion using a stock or caravan intake and added the 4 injector EIC from SDS. Besides having the manifold machined and the bungs tigged on, what else would have to be done to use this system on our cars?

Great work Heefner! I did a fresh air intake in which I used PVC pipe to go from the stock fresh air in the fender location, used elbows to run down the inside of the fender at out with another elbow and pipe to the opening in the front air dam. I know it works because I ended up with lots of pea size and smaller pebbles in my filter can, so I put screen on the enlets. I like your idea even better! I am going to use aluminum and copy your idea. Maybe I will install a high cfm pancake fan where that stock fresh air inlet is to help blow and circulate air into the air box. I like your idea of isolating the airbox.

OK, does anyone out there actually use coatings on their pistons, combustion chambers and other internal parts? I can look up coatings all day and find the same thing, but I would like to hear from someone who actually has experience with coatings. Real experience, not my uncle has a cousin who made out with a chick who turned out to be his aunts brother in drag who knows a guy who had a buddy who read an article about a guy who tried it and died of carbon monoxide poising while licking a coating off the inside of a set of headers kinda thing.

Rich is a good honest guy! I bought a polished 20G turbo from him, what a deal!! Thanks Rich!!

Bought some rear 89' shoulder belts from her. Excellent transaction!!

Mark gave me a great deal on a cleaned and flowed 850cc primary injector for my Conquest. He included the paperwork from RC, and after comparing it to my two spare primary injectors, it has a noticably larger hole on the squirting end of it. Mark also offers his knowledge and experience to anyone who will ask. One of best in this community if you ask me! Thanks Mark.

It is Jeg's 771-12311 for $131.99. I will post a pic tonight of the fisnished installation after work.

I installed a Perma Cool Six Pass oil cooler with a fan unit. It measures 3.75H x 10.5W x 14L. I had to remove the third fan that is mounted against the air conditioner evaporation coil and heavily modify that fan's bracket and the core support. This thing is huge compared to the factory unit. My lines burst on the factory unit so instead of having them rebuilt I installed this bigger cooler and adapted oil hose from Surpluscenter.com to work with the Banjo fittings on the pump. I will likely wire the fan to a toggle switch instead of to the circuit for the old fan so I can turn it on and off. My car ran kinda on the hot side since I ported the stock turbo and exhaust manifold. This will likely help.

For those of you who have wondered whether the porting mods are worth it I say YES in a big way. I had to replace a burned exhaust gasket, so while I had it apart anyway I hand ported the exhaust manifold and the turbo housings. Follow the visuals on the T-Racing.com free mods section. I removed alot of material from the exhaust manifold, but left the step ring and just enough material to support it. On the turbo I mostly just smoothed things up and straightened them out. My spool up is much quicker than before, almost like shifting a manual valve bodied automatic trans, there is VERY little lag. It seems that there is no catch up time between shifts now. It runs like a whole different car now.

Has anyone here tried the SDS EM-4 two injector setup on the Starquests? I cannot find any detailed information on anyone doing so by using the boards search engine. Wouldn't this be a real cheap way to add more fuel to support higher boost levels?

I have started a headlight conversion of my own. It will replace the popups with lenses to fiit the contours and a polished aluminum housing using a common replacement bulb rather than a high dollar one-off piece. Think 90's 300ZX to picture the concept. I have a photo of a quick cover I made to see how it might look for s**** and giggles. I like it, popups are too 80's for me.

I now have experience with both. I found the ball and spring type to spool much faster than the bleed type. I also installed a ball and spring in my bleed type valve, and this works about the same as the ball and spring alone. Finding the correct spring is the tough part. Something I found with both is when I hit 15psi it slowly backs down to about 10. I would like it to hold 15psi as long as I am into the pedal. Not sure if this is possible.

I have seen several companies offering these systems since my original post. Turbo Magazine states that they come in either Nos or compressed air. Compressed air would be worthless, they meant Co2. I am going to make my own system based on my 5# aluminum Co2 bottle I use for homebrewing. Look around at Co2 systems intended for fish tanks, the solonoids are cryogenic and much cheaper than the ones that are marketed as NOS. Stainless tubing would be the ultimate for the spray bar, but copper would work fine and be much more cost effective. I will cool the OVC pipe and the intercooler in my system. I have absolutely no access to a dyno so I will not be able to report on the actual increases realized by this system. I am very skeptical however of the numbers claimed by the commercial systems on the market. I think that there is a LOT of potential in this concept, but don't piss away your money on a commercial system when you could build one for a fraction of the cost. Co2 bottles and regulators can be found cheap on Ebay, but BEWARE, if the bottle has an expired hydro test date, it should be had for a lot less than one that is current. Your supplier won't refill your bottle until you have it tested and certified safe.