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Elkidmino

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Posts posted by Elkidmino

  1. Sup man, good to see you too! It's just like when I did the bags. Took a lot of research and some mock-up before I went through with it. Is it worth not spending the $1200 for a trans? Yes. :) But then again, I don't know how far in I'll have to go if the flywheels end up being my biggest issue. A new, custom flywheel is around $600. I live in the motor city tho, so fabrication time is paid in beer.
  2. So instead of shutting this down immediately with "it'll never work," let's have a more open discussion about it as a subject, because in the end, anything is possible. I'm hoping once this starts to develop that someone with a little more experience than I can chime in and fill in the blanks.

     

    A 5.3L around the 2000s made 285hp/320tq in various truck applications. My own Conquest made 240hp/312tq on MPI which was turning an '89 transmission with no grinds, squeeks, rattles, groans, or signs of failure in the pan. I know other members on this board have run over 300hp through the stock transmission and they live, so long as you're not launching on sticky tires it should be fine. I'm not convinced that a 5.3L is going to suddenly grenade the transmission as soon as you hit the key.

     

    Let's talk about the potential ways we could mate these two entities. The stock Starion transmission has a lower bellhousing bolt spacing of ~13.25" while the LS series motor is around 15.49" so an adapter plate needs to be made to physically bolt the two together. Next, the LS1 flywheel has a bolt circle of 12.625", and the LT1 is around 11.625" and the G54B is 9.44". The LT1 and LS1 have the same crank bolt circle, but the crank heights are different so this will need to be checked to determine which bellhousing will be used. A simple check would be input shaft protrusion beyond the bellhousing flange between a t56 and a Starion trans. Pilot bushings can be had in any diameter with extensions to support the input shaft. The LS crank flange is .400 closer to the block than an LT1 so a spacer could be machined to make up the difference in case the LS flywheel diameter is too large for the Starion transmission.

     

    In theory, a Starion pressure plate and clutch disk could be used and the LS/LT flywheel drilled for the Starion's pattern. I'm planning to check fitment of the two combos in the coming weeks.

     

    My initial idea is to use a 1/4" adapter plate drilled for the two bolt patterns, LS/LT flywheel redrilled on a rotary table to mate to the Starion pressure plate, stock hydraulics and check starter placement at the end. Those Summit mini-starters can be mounted basically anywhere and would be drilled and mounted to the adapter plate.

     

    Couple measurements I don't readily have:

    • Starion input shaft diameter: 0.590"
    • Starion pilot bearing bore diameter: 0.5906"
    • LS pilot bushing bore diameter: 0.591"
    • Starion input shaft protrusion
    • Overall 240mm flywheel diameter
    • Starion inner bellhousing diameter

    Goal: Drop in LS/LQ capability for epic drift stuffs.

  3. Would the set that Artinist sold years ago work? The springs are 70mm inner diameter with a 7 inch height. I've got a set of just the springs(no adjustment sleeves) 8k front pair and 6k rear pair if you need them.

     

    So pretty much buy the adjustment sleeves or make my own perches to set ride height and I'm good to go? What are you thinking on price? You can PM me if you'd like.

  4. Shelby, I wish you the best in the coming months and I hope your treatments allow you the most time possible with your [big] family. Thank you for all the knowledge and teaching you've done for so many members on this and other sites and for the Starquest community in general. You allowed others to have confidence in their skills and not be afraid to dive and fix a problem that would otherwise mean the end of a car. Thank you for your advice and helping me keep my car on the road in the past, I'll never forget it.
  5. Hate to bump this from the dead, but I wanted to clarify that I didn't set the bags system up to go for laying frame because I would have had to cut out the inner fender wells to do so. I set it up so the car would still be driveable if one of the bags failed. If I did it again I would go with double convoluted bags over single and would tub the wheels wells to get it on the exhaust and front frame rails. Would have to do the MR2 coilover mod or D2's? to get it there.

     

    This is the car with no struts in it, just laid on the tires.

    http://26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10121/PIC-0478.jpg

     

    Gas tank is close to the next part to hit the ground

    http://26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10121/PIC-0483.jpg

  6. Hey guys, was up North this weekend so I'm just now filtering through the PMs. Wheels sold in 20 minutes. Axles and sunroof sold locally.

     

    Mstieg was correct, it was not worth all the hassle for shipping the rims. I'm not out to make money, would rather these parts get used on people's cars.

     

    Joe, Potimus picked up the box with the A/C bracket and said he'd ship it to you free of charge.

  7. Sorry guys, got slammed at work, 1st quarter and all, but I returned all PM's and got confirmation that a bunch of you got your parts, good deal.

     

    Parts listed are still available.

     

    Couple pending like ECU, axles, sunroof. I have a set of SHP wheels in the attic, but I am sure as hell not shipping them. If you're willing to drive, I'll give them up for $100. May even toss some other stuff in the truck/car for good measure.

     

    Radio is sold!

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